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Discussion Starter #41
'96 Explorer 4x2 AT specs a 269/369 rear u-joint which is a 1310-series. :)

My personal choice would be the following since it's a) non-greasable (no drilled lube passages to weaken joint) and b) coated caps for compatibility with aluminum driveshaft.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dana-Spicer-5-3613X-U-Joint-w-Coated-Caps-for-Alum-Driveshaft,93583.html
Bart, I see how this would be helpful as you don't want steel on an aluminum with no separation barrier. But how can one determine the difference between the 1310 joints and the larger 1330 that many of the Exploders use? Can you just spot the size difference by bringing a 1310 to the boneyard with you? I know there are conversions but I'd rather avoid it of possible.

I guess if I go bone yard picking I'll have to figure out what years have the 1310 vs 1330. For now I have a few other things to eliminate.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Not to hijack the thread...but since we are on the subject anyway....the MT82 trans I am using doesn't have a slip-yoke, just a flange, so the driveshaft will have to have the slip joint built in...anyone happen to know of an aluminum driveshaft application with an in-driveshaft slip joint? I would rather not be stuck using a modified 2012+ mustang 2-piece steel driveshaft that weighs a billion pounds...also dont want to buy an aftermarket aluminum shaft for those years just to cut it down...they are close to $1000 and the diff flange is wrong anyway.(though it would be helpful if someone knows where to buy pinion flange bolt pattern adapters...would be faster and therefore cheaper than fabricating one from scratch)
Really don't mind I'm the OP and I am we/are done with this thread. But if you make your own you will get MUCH better attention to it. Most people are too lazy to read to the end of the threads if they haven't been involved in them. Especially with such a long winded OP like me :0) I'm a computer engineer so I type really fast hehe.
 

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My 94 Exploder uses 1310. Is the shaft running true? Maybe play with drive line angle. You may be just enough off at the trans side.
 

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The Explorer aluminum driveshaft I got uses the 1330 U-joints, I do not know what year Explorer it is from.
737469
 

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Not to hijack the thread...but since we are on the subject anyway....the MT82 trans I am using doesn't have a slip-yoke, just a flange, so the driveshaft will have to have the slip joint built in...anyone happen to know of an aluminum driveshaft application with an in-driveshaft slip joint? I would rather not be stuck using a modified 2012+ mustang 2-piece steel driveshaft that weighs a billion pounds...also dont want to buy an aftermarket aluminum shaft for those years just to cut it down...they are close to $1000 and the diff flange is wrong anyway.(though it would be helpful if someone knows where to buy pinion flange bolt pattern adapters...would be faster and therefore cheaper than fabricating one from scratch)
If you don't mind a 1330/1310 conversion joint... or maybe the dude will make with 1310's.... https://www.ebay.com/i/271973482069?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=271973482069&targetid=541454249252&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1027479&poi=&campaignid=6470552634&mkgroupid=81274458647&rlsatarget=pla-541454249252&abcId=1139336&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5dPuBRCrARIsAJL7oehvCVsBsVxsnkL4IuU6rQ9hxJw3565Ye7aRbC6jPlHhP9Mlo-iv6EIaAnY0EALw_wcB

Hard to beat the price...
 

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Sweet! thank you...I could care less about what u-joint or hybrid u-joint I end up with(as long as I know what it is)...that tends to be par for the course with my project vehicles. I wonder how much the upgrade to aluminum would be? Guess I will have to shoot him an email and find out....do it now while the drivetrain is in for misc fabrication, or put it off until re-assembly is the question...
 

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This is the rear u-joint I put on my 65 when I switched over to the Explorer driveshaft:

 

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Find a reputable drive line shop and go tell them what you need. They’ll tell you how to measure, etc. You’ll be surprised how inexpensive a new shaft is with new quality u joints, balanced, and your yoke installed.
 
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