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Isn't just about every T5 from 1985 and newer a WC transmission? I thought the NWC was the earlier model up until about 1984 or so and then they stopped producing those in favor of the WC in 1985? I guess it's always possible that the transmission on his 1987 mustang could've been swapped out at one point but it would definitely make me think it's a WC T5.
 

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In the '80's there were a lot of folks thrashing Mustangs and breaking T5's left and right. They used to sell out of the salvage yards like hotcakes. No one much at the time was particular about WC or not. My old Mustang was a three speed manual when it left the factory. When it came into my hands it had a C4. These days it sports a T5.
 

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Repeat from post #25.

"Rear end additive is to enhance the slip of clutches in the rear end and has no place in any transmission ever made."

Seriously DO NOT PUT THAT IN YOUR TRANSMISSION! People prefer this or that brand, synthetic or not, etc. And all that's OK, whatever you like and works for you but if you put rear end friction modifier in your T5 you are going to F it up. Like putting water in the gas tank. Sand in the engine oil, just don't.
In the car world there are two opposite kinds of friction modifiers and that stuff is the opposite of the right one for any transmission. I don't know how to make it more clear that this is important.
 

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Repeat from post #25.

"Rear end additive is to enhance the slip of clutches in the rear end and has no place in any transmission ever made."

Seriously DO NOT PUT THAT IN YOUR TRANSMISSION! People prefer this or that brand, synthetic or not, etc. And all that's OK, whatever you like and works for you but if you put rear end friction modifier in your T5 you are going to F it up. Like putting water in the gas tank. Sand in the engine oil, just don't.
In the car world there are two opposite kinds of friction modifiers and that stuff is the opposite of the right one for any transmission. I don't know how to make it more clear that this is important.
Roger that - linked to the wrong friction modifier. So should I not use one at all? Or is there a recommended one?
 

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Roger that - linked to the wrong friction modifier. So should I not use one at all? Or is there a recommended one?
-No additives needed, just the ATF.
 

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Old Ford Type F transmission fluid has the modifiers at the other end of the spectrum that you are thinking of. Sometimes swapping Dexron out in favor of F can temporarily cure gear grind in T5's. Basically puts off the time when someone has to actually go in and replace the worn blocker rings. Since Trick Shift is essentially synthetic type F that's why it works so very well in manual transmissions that use ATF. I love to speed shift now and then and hate gear grind so that's why I use nothing but Trick Shift. I've heard it can also help with the moan and whine sounds pre-1996 Ford power steering setups tend to make but have not tried that or seen it in person.
 

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^^^^^^ #1

I'm a believer in the B&M Trick Shift. I especially like the synthetic version, but either one works very well.

I use it in all vintage Paxton superchargers . Superb wear protection.

Z
 

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Hmm, synthetic ATF plus friction modifier equals.....TrickShift! How about that?
I'm not making any darn videos about it but I still recommend it. A little friction modifier goes a long way towards smooth shifts. Especially if you like to speed shift.

Oh shoot I forgot, I'm just some guy on the internet. Never mind.
Glen at Rosehill Performance Parts is the guru of T5 transmissions, (in my opinion). He recommends Mobil1 Synthetic ATF (2.5 qts) and one bottle of Motorcraft Friction Modifier. I have been running this combo in my used T5 (Craig's list), beating the crap out of it at open track events and it still works great.

lol ok im confused - whats the friction modifier you guys WERE talking about adding to my synthetic ATF? (I understand I dont need it just trying to get clarification)
 

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It's not you, actually. Rear end friction modifier additive is to make clutches SLIP. If you have a brand new traction-loc or other limited slip type rear end and just fill it with oil you'll have a rough ride. The clutches naturally grab and make both wheels turn together. Great, but we need to turn corners too where the outer wheel spins a lot and the inner wheel spins a little. This is why we're messing with clutches instead of just welding the whole thing solid. The whole thing is a pretty tricky engineering balance of grab and slip. That horrible smelling friction modifier oil additive is a key component of the balance. Without it the inner tire on curves will screech and hop.

Now. In the old days with MX's and early C4's and such transmissions Ford thought they needed different (automatic) clutches from everyone else. Their clutch plates were just metallic and and had no brake-pad type friction material attached to them like everyone else's. Metal on metal in oil tends to slip a bit. To compensate the put friction modifier additives in their fluid to enhance clutch "grab". The aftermarket was not impressed. Raybestos and everyone else quickly figured out that those Fords worked just fine with the same replacement clutches with regular friction material on them like the rest of the world was using. And of course once you went to such type clutches you no longer needed the extra friction modifiers in type F and could use Dexron or whatever. The Chevy guys figured out that they could add some type F to their slipping Chevy transmissions and often stop the slip enough to get some more miles out of them before having to rebuild. Many a drag racer added type F to their automatic to achieve more positive shifts. Trick Shift caters to those people.

So when someone says "friction modifiers" you want to be clear on which of the two opposite things they talking about. The slip kind or anti-slip kind. Because people do tend not to explain that and assume everybody knows which one they are referring to.
 
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