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Discussion Starter #1
How tough a job is it to remove the front springs on a 66 Mustang and what kind or brand of spring compressor is the safest and most economical to use? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.


Shelby Man
 

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Sandy: I have had mine out and in a couple of times (it gets faster with practice). First, remove the shock out through the top of the shock tower (remove mounting nuts at bottom area of springs, and bolts at top of shock tower) The type of compressor that I use looks like a couple of bent fingers on the top and the same on the bottom (but facing each other) with a long screw connecting them. With the wheel off, support the weight of the car under the lower control arm, hook the "fingers" over the coils, near the top and bottom, on each side (opposite each other, one front and one at rear) and start screwing the "fingers" together. It will take a while so take your time, and remember that there is a lot of stored energy in those compressed springs and will do a lot of damage if they pop out of the compressor. When they are compressed enough, you can lift the spring up, tilt the bottom towards you, and out she comes. If I forgot anything, please read the other posters and follow their suggestions. Good luck and be SAFE. Mark

http://www.classic-mustang.net/ReadersRides/MarkMustangs.jpg
 

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That's exactly the same spring compressor type and way I got mine out of my '66.

Just make sure all of the fingers are kinda wrapped around the spring. You'll notice
that they might not get all over. It's like getting a straight line to hit perfectly on a
curved line. You'll be off just a bit on either end. Also, make sure the clamps are as
close to straight across from each other as possible. If not, you'll find that the spring
will start to angle in that direction.

Rich
----
'66, 302-4bbl, Granada disk brakes, etc, etc...
 

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Go HERE to see 2 pics of the spring compressor in 'action'. Since the bolthead is facing down, I used a long box-end(closed end..?) wrench to turn the bolt....

This is how I did it on my 68...Piece of cake once you figure out how those finger things work...

Good luck...

RJ
68 Diamond Blue Coupe
Sprint Promotion A
289 2bbl with a C4

College Station, TX

Click Here For Home Page<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by bluebeast on 04/08/01 12:54 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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also use oil on the screw so that it turns easily

My son got me into this and I'm having a ball
65 fastback, 289, 3 speed, Holly 1850, Edelbrock intake. SSB front disks in a box, Canadian Mustang "real big kit" suspension in alot of boxes,
Right now lots of boxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I've changed spring sets three times. It's really scary the first time and not much less scary on the second and third times. When changing springs, it always seems most dangerous when relaxing the spring to remove the compressor when it's not on the car. I admit the part I dislike the most is getting my fingers into the spring to get the compressor springs into usable positions.

My question: Has anyone made and used the spring compressor described in the Tony Branda catalog


Russ

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Tip #2 on this sheet is a spring compressor that looks much easier to use that an internal compressor. Anybody tried this?

Russ

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1595962&a=12199293&p=46074177&Sequence=0&res=high.JPG
 

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The tools in the diagram are for holding the spring
while you replace or rebuild the upper a-arm, or do
the Shelby mod to the shock towers. Don't
try to remove the spring with these home made tools.
 

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If you have a VIP Auto Parts nearby, they can loan you exactly
that kind of spring compressor. They will put a temporary
charge of $50 on your card, and then cancel the charge when
you return the tool so it ends up a free rental. I've done this
a couple of times and it's a great deal.

Rich
'67 C-code 'vert (Dees67)
'69 GT FB (project car)
Milford, NH
Check out my band: Brickyard Blues
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I haven't had much success with removing front coil springs on my mustangs (65 and 66), either. I rented one of those "finger" type compressors. I tried to put it in with the bolt head pointing up, but that didn't work because the other end interfered with the perch. When I flipped it the other way, I couldn't get a wrench on the bolt head. I finally gave up and still have yet to install my springs (car on rotisserie). The Ford Mustang shop manual shows some "tower" style spring remover which is kind of like the Branda one. I've even considered building my own spring compressor. Maybe I'll just buy the "finger" style and try it again..........
 

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I just purchased a finger-type spring compressor from CJPonyParts. I had previously purchased the two independent types, which I used to remove the springs, but I didn't like how the thread end of the bolts scratched up the sheetmetal and the compressors moved toward each other as you tightened them, causing the springs to bow. But how the heck to I get the finger-type to tighten enough to get the spring in place AND get a tool in to loosen the bolt. This is the biggest challenged I've faced on my 66 coupe. ANY help would be most appreciated.
 

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i used to struggle with my finger type until i welded a nut on the end with no nut and problem solved. it works like a charm with no problems. wes
 

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if your replacing the springs and have a torch heat them up till they sag , then just pull them out after they cool no compressor needed and no worrys of a flying spring .
the replacement performance springs are a lot shorter and drop right in .
Doesn't that effect the spring rate?

I've heard of people loosening the lower control arm and getting them out without a compressor, but it sounds iffy to me.
 

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It's a coincidence, but, as I write this, I'm in the process of using my home made compressor to remove my springs. As it is installed on a spring ( I had to break and fix dinner) See the top in the attached pic. Actually, It's is very similar to the Ebay version noted above. The difference is, I used a length of 1/2" all-thread rod that I welded a cut-off section of an old shock on one end (perch side). The other end, I used a large pipe flange that was drilled to fit over the top shock mount.
 

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