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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered two in thinking that I would replace them as one is basically busted in half.

I spent a little time trying to get a wrench / socket onto the nuts and I just can't seem to do it.

The new nuts seem to fit a 14mm wrench.

Does anyone have a procedure to replace these with the coils installed?

The shocks, and shock towers themselves are still out of the car.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The bumpers hanging right in front of the springs?

That whole cover unbolts with like 4 or 6 bolts. Take it off and work on the bumper on your workbench.
I thought the upper control arms bolted to the shock tower covers that the bumpers bolted into. This was my understanding which would mean the upper control arms as well as the coil springs would need to be removed.

Have I missed something?

EDIT: So I found the "Shock Tower OUTER Cover" that I believe Magnus was referring to. It looks like 8 bolts and it should come out. I can then replace the bumpers and bolt back in.

Thank you Magnus for the reply because I was not really wanting to learn this weekend how to compress and remove/reinstall the coil springs. I've heard a TON of horror stories around them breaking free and doing damage.

Here's another picture and blog of a guy that cleaned up the shock tower top mounts and outer covers: https://onemanandhismustang.com/shock-tower-renovation/#jp-carousel-8864
 

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The "shock cover" does not retain the spring. It stiffens the tower, and provides a mount for the bumper. You can easily and safely remove this cover at any time.

Springs are dangerous only when improper tools are used to compress them. With proper tools, spring removal is easy and safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The "shock cover" does not retain the spring. It stiffens the tower, and provides a mount for the bumper. You can easily and safely remove this cover at any time.

Springs are dangerous only when improper tools are used to compress them. With proper tools, spring removal is easy and safe.
thank you VMF for another educational experience. I went out and visually confirmed things for myself. I'm much more at ease now. I'll tackle this work this weekend while I'm dodging a hurricane (in all reality not that worried about Dorian).

Looking to do the following:

Remove shock covers and replace bumpers
Replace both shocks with the Bilstein Streets that came in from John at OTR
Replace all six shock tower mounting bolts with carriage bolts (5/16-18 , 1/2" long with proper keps / k-lock nut)
Replace new shock tower top brackets
Bolt everything up to specs, including the new greasable fittings for the sway/stabilizer
Grease all fittings that I can find/see

A few Questions Remain - Thank you for your patience!

Is there a page/area of reference in the Mustang Shop Manual (big red paperback book) for torque specs on:
sway bar bolts and bottom bolts for shocks? I already have the specs from another thread for the 3 shock tower cap to body torque specs (3 per side) and the mounting bolts from the shock to the shock tower cap (2 per side)

Is there a brand or style of grease that I should be filling my hand-me down grease guns with for ball joints, control arm, and other chassis grease fittings? Never actually greased anything except for packing some wheel bearings for a 97 Ranger.

Thanks!
 

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There is a good chance the bumper bolt will not be easy to remove. My last set was so bad I just replaced the whole spring cover. Saved me having to blast it and paint it as well, so it was a good trade off excuse. They are not expensive and the reproductions are very good.
 

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Just a heads up. When I did this job on my 65 I discovered ONE spot weld holding the cover in place. In the picture just below the one upper fender apron bolt. Both sides. Brian
 

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