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Discussion Starter #1
You might have read my posts over the last few days about my A/C system. Well, now i need to get the remains of it OUT, for two reasons: To maybe rebuild whats there, and to rewire the underdash.

Heres the lowdown so far. I have all the bolts that i can find out, but the big.....boxy thing....on the passenger side still seems to be attached to another thingy in the engine bay (clear so far? ::)

BUT, there seems to be a hose running coolant through the firewall into the 'big box' (see how knowledgeable i am with a/c? :: )

I dont know if i can take this hose off or not, because from the look of it if i start the car ill have gallons of coolant spraying inside my car.

Once again ive thrown together a web-page here

Can anyone advise me on what to do to get it out (still intact! ;)) , or even if i CAN with that big hose there.

Thanks!

Gary
 

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That big box on the passenger side also holds your heater core, which is why you have coolant lines running to it. And yes, if you remove the lines, you'll have a mess. Your car will also be undrivable unless you reconnect the two heater hoses to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks.

Not what i wanted to hear ::

Gary
 

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Sorry I can't help you on the heater box removal. However, some of the 67-68 owners on the forum here should chime in.
With regard to the heater core, it is relatively easy to 'loop' the hose back to the engine to have the box removed. Do it now while the weather is still good so you can assess the parts situation. You can clean up the box, put a new seal kit in it and reinstall before that first freeze. Oh, wait. You live in Ireland. Its probably already cold there::...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, wait. You live in Ireland. Its probably already cold there...
That doesnt explain why my ass is burning from the seats.. ;)
 

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Lessee....

I believe there are 5 "palnuts" on the firewall that must be removed, drain the coolant and remove the heater hoses at the firewall.
Disconnect the AC condensate tube (under the carpet), unhook the fresh air cable, unhook the wires to the thermostat, blower motor, and center vent switch, remove a brace that goes in front of the heater box, unhook the 2 1/2" ductwork, from underneath, a bolt that holds the blower assy. to the dash and another that holds the box assembly to the RH fresh air duct, label and remove the vacuum hoses, and with a little "finesse", it'll pop right out!

It's even harder to put back in! :( ::
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe i'll just let NASA handle it..... ::

What i found were three "palnuts" (as you call them) on the firewall. One bolt holding the box vertically to a small bracket on the dash. All i could find. Aside from the wires, of course.

I'm thoroughly photographing everything im doing anyway. The big thing is to sort out the coolant hoses in the engine bay, otherwise im in deep......coolant.

I have the Vacuum Schematics Manual and the 1968 Shop Manual. F##King useless! :: V.S.M shows one bolt holding it on.

If anyone knows where i can get detailed (detailed!!) diagrams of the whole a/c system please let me know. Ive been emailed about a classic auto air catalog, but isnt that just a company selling aftermarket a/c?? ::

Thanks,

Gary
 

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Ive been emailed about a classic auto air catalog, but isnt that just a company selling aftermarket a/c??
Yes, Classic Auto Air AND Vintage Air... An excellent unit that contains both a heater and the AC system!
 

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Art pretty much has it! Those smaller hoses do carry coolant to the heater box just like the non A/C cars. You can just disconnect one from the fire wall side and reconnect it back to where the other one is on the engine (intake manifold or the water pump). This will at least let you to still drive the car. At the firewall if you haven’t done it yet you have to remove the plate that goes around the tubes that stick out into the engine compartment. There will also be a nut in the firewall in the upper left corner and I think 2 or 3 more toward the right behind the engine. The nuts are the stamped steel type. I’ll look at my coupe and the shop manual when I get home but I think the shop manual doesn’t have a good picture. It might have a good step by step procedure to follow though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats great, thanks!

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Guys,

I have bypassed the two hoses now and drained the old coolant. Can someone verify ive done this RIGHT before i try start the car?

Im 95% sure its right, but you never know! ::

Air-Con Bypass

Thanks

Gary
 

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On some of the 67s there are two vertical bolts holding the blower motor in place under the dash (the part on the left) and two nuts on the firewall. I have only seen one vertical bolt on 68 blower motors but anything is possible. One vertical bolt on the heater box with one nut on the firewall and then the firewall plate. As far as I can see from your picture is if that’s how far you got, you have to remove them two hoses going into the AC/heater box. Then remove the heat shield and firewall plate that go around the two heater hoses and the two AC evaporator tubes. It would also be a good idea to remove that expansion valve that is still hooked up to the two AC evaporator tubes. This will give you more room. Also under the dash there is a bar that has one end connected to the lower part of the dash and the other end connected to the under side of the cowl. Take this bar out and push the blower motor as far as you can to the left. Make sure that the drain hose that comes out of the bottom of the heater box is disconnected and just pull and twist it until you get it out. It is tight and its just as much fun getting it back in also.
:(
When your done have a few pints to celebrate or even while taking a brake because it just plane sucks getting that thing in and out from under the dash. :: :p ::

Your bypass is also good. :)
 
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