Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 9 of 9 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm bored. My '69 is in a storage garage because I don't have a place to work on it. I do have an extra hood sitting around that I could work on, but I need some expert opinions. I want to remove the crap-job red paint, and whatever is under it, and get it down to bare metal. I don't have a sandblaster though, so this is what I see for options:

A: Use chemicals. "Aircraft paint remover" sold at my local auto parts store will work great, exclaims the kid behind the counter.

B: Put some back into it. Using a handy electric drill, with 3M paint and rust stripping pads and several different grits of sandpaper pads, I could grind it all away. Would I be harming more than helping though?

C: Hold my dang horses. Wait until I either rent or buy a sandblaster.

So...anyone have an opinion out there? :p
Is there a better "Plan D" ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Im stripping mine in the garage at the house using a air sander with 40 grit , I have several layers of old bad patch work, I was using 80 grit but it was taking way too much time.
Using a mudhog sander/stripper w/ 8" disc from Finish Master.

Good Luck and hope this helps you save time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
When I stripped all of the paint off my 68 GT I used a chemical paint stripper. I was warned by a few bodymen not to use a sandblaster because of the danger of warping the body panels, especially the hood, roof and quarterpanels. Get a gelled/thick viscosity stripper, that way it stays in place and doesn't drip off while it's working. Do a small area at a time, like 1 sq.ft. You'll probably have to do it a second and maybe even a third time to get to bare steel, depends on the thickness and type of paint. If there's any body filler under the paint the stripper will soften it. You'll have to remove it completely and re-do any previous repair work because the filler will absorb the stripper. If you leave it in place it'll eventually re-harden but the stripper will leak to the surface and destroy your nice new paint. Once you've got all the paint and filler off wash the panel very, very well with the recommended solvent(it should tell you on the side of the stripper container) and then wash it down with lacquer thinner. It's a messy, smelly job but sandblasting is also messy. Either way the main objective is to make sure there's no residue left to contaminate the new paint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,637 Posts
If you donn't have a compressor and DA sander, you could get by using an electric palm sander (a variable speed polisher grinder would be even better) and some 40 grit to remove the paint, then smooth it off with 80 before re-applying filler or primer.

The chemicals work to, but are much more hazardous than using a sander. A drill & pads will take days.

Just my $.02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
I am THERE right Now//// I too am shaking my head at the thought of stripping off the paint on the whole car. But maybe I m lucky because I intend to have a guy put in rear quarters--- so since i intend to have a vinyl roof. -- all I really have to strip off is the 5 layers of paint and gloss coat on the Doors- Hood Trunk lid and ONE fender -since I intend to get a repro drivers side. BUT YES- it will NOT be easy- those chemicals are dangerous to inhale and skin. Sooo Use ONLY OUTDOORS with gloves and a respirator-if you have one- otherwisw just dont breath in too deeply when working with it-- maybe have a fan nearby just to blow the fumes away if you are in a Garage. TRY to get the project OUTSIDE and not in a garage-to reduce breathing vapors/ Have a couple Plastic blades available to use on different surfaces . It will be slow-- do NOT use in SUNLIGHT because it will dry out on the surface before it has a chance to eat INTO the top paint layer. I have been told that you can speedup the cutting properties of the chem-strip by covering it with Plastic Wrap- itwill not eat away the plastic- so I am told. GOOD LUCK-- let me know how you are coming along- I might start in on Thursday when i get back from work- It aint easy brother- believe me. Jim and John MustangPals " Hank's Boys"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,723 Posts
I know it sounds funny, but try a single-edge razor blade scraper (not a box cutter), but the kind that aligns the blade like the edge of a putty knife and scrape away. You may not get it all, but I removed all the paint from my roof, except for the sealer, in about 5 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,513 Posts
I second the razor blade method. Mine took off most of the cruddy paint job down to the original paint. From there I used a DA sander to finish as the factory job was too tough to get with a blade. Yea, the cruddy paint came off in a very short time with the blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,169 Posts
Never sandblast (not beadblast) the paint off a panel. It will create little raised areas everywhere. Using a sander is also risky because if you stay in one spot you risk warping the panel in the same manner. You might not see the warpage until its wet, or even worse, when its painted.

What I do is lightly rough up the paint by hand with 36 grit sandpaper. I then apply paint stripper. Airplane Remover is the best. I scrape off the lifted paint with a plastic squeege. When most of the paint is off I apply another coat of paint remover and scrub the panel down with steel wool. Anything that is left over from this process I clean off with some cheap lacquer thinner. Airplane remover also takes off filler, but tit takes several coats. It should cost you about $30 worth a materials to do your hood.

The underside is a different story. You can use just about any method you want. You can sandblast almost the whole thing. However, you should watchout for the areas where you may contact the underside of the top sheetmetal. This would be the center area for the shaker opening, hood pin openings and that large oval area near the hood latch. They may cause warping of the hood if your not careful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
I agree with the razor blade idea. I did this to my 70 Mach which had 3 paint jobs over the original. I used the 4" scraper that has the 10" handle and in less than an hour I had 90% of the car down to the original paint. Used a DA from there. Change blades often!
Rick Allen/Oceanside, CA
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top