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Discussion Starter #22
Dennis,
So 2 1/4” back from the engine side of shock tower?
That right?



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do you have a picture with the engine installed?
Of course! As a reference, the headers are 1 3/4" Accufabs.



Passenger side:







Driver's side:







Its a street/strip car so its pretty busy under there.

 

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Dennis,
So 2 1/4” back from the engine side of shock tower?
That right?



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At the bottom, yes.

I have a link to my conversion here: Grafting 67/68 shock towers to 65/66 Mustang

Note that I start out by swapping 67/68 shock towers onto my 65 AND THEN decided to do the notching. You might find some measurements in the text. Due to the subsequent photobucket extortion, the pics won't be clear but I have them stored on my computer.
 

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At the bottom, yes.

I have a link to my conversion here: Grafting 67/68 shock towers to 65/66 Mustang

Note that I start out by swapping 67/68 shock towers onto my 65 AND THEN decided to do the notching. You might find some measurements in the text. Due to the subsequent photobucket extortion, the pics won't be clear but I have them stored on my computer.
That's interesting Dennis: We swapped a Souped 351W into '65 Fastback about 25-30 years back & didn't touch the shock towers or need to use '67-68 partial towers (Couldn't get 'em anyway !) - just used the earlier aforementioned AU Australian Swap headers & did old 'stang track race mod of '60's of relocated A-arm/wishbone.. With Isky 505T Oval Track Cam & Wide ratio top loader went like scolded cat & cornered on rails (With few other mods, like 6 point cage etc, neg camber diff )
For Administrator comment earlier, the original dilemma was 351C. OR 347W based etc: 351C is like BIG BLOCK Dimensions compaired to 351W.
Cheers.
Just my old 2 cents, nearly forgotten.
 

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That's interesting Dennis: We swapped a Souped 351W into '65 Fastback about 25-30 years back & didn't touch the shock towers or need to use '67-68 partial towers (Couldn't get 'em anyway !)
My 65' GT had a 69' 351w block sitting in with stock shock towers when I bought it in 1979. I added headers and kept up the tradition. I really didn't mind spark plug changes until I started getting serious in racing. I found that quickly removing spark plugs from the tangle of hot header pipes to check mixture often meant loss of skin . . . . . Also it was a nightmare to install/remove the headers during a rebuild. I cursed them many times over the last few years . . . . .

351C is like BIG BLOCK Dimensions compaired to 351W.
10-4 on that. Since the 65/66 mustangs have the same overall dimension engine compartments as the 67+ cars which had factory big blocks installed, that is why I initially decided I wanted to install the 68' shock towers in my car (the suspension also was changed to the 68' stuff as it included the relocated steering components.)

When I had completed the welding work and stood back to admired my work, I started thinking about making even more clearance by notching the new towers. Innitially I tried to blow off the thought but deep down inside I knew that I eventually do it some time later. With that in my mind, I gave in and started notching.
 

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Discussion Starter #27


This makes me giddy.
Thinking I’m gonna do this...
The motor is out. Time to do it.



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Thanks for posting this info Dennis. I have read your posts on other sites and your talent is admirable. I ALWAYS think trimming the shock towers is a much better alternative than totally changing the front end with the Mustang 2 stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well, I’ve ordered some plates and templates from gateway.
I think this will make it a little easier project.

I also like the two step transition.
I’m going in as soon as they get here.
Will do the Shelby drop at same time.






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Happy to offer as much help as I can. Currently the motor is out of my car so I have ready access to my engine compartment. Perhaps I can figure out a way to measure a few things that might help . . . . As you might have seen in one of my articles I bent my own plate using a nice piece of boxed steel and a torch.





IMHO, that kit is not going to work with the factory suspension. I don't how you would install the upper control arms with that kit as there is no provisions for one. . . . . The "flat" is located too far outboard. Also a factory type coil spring will be out of the question too due to space considerations.

It looks to me like its designed to use struts on a rack and pinion setup???
 

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Mike, wait, stop, and rethink. That Gateway fit will NOT work with what you're trying to do. It only works with their expensive aftermarket strut suspension, $ 3800 ~8650, depending on what you choose. and then add a $2K rack,..........LSG
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yep, your right. Cancelled the order.
Realized that today.
Will have to make the plates from scratch I guess!
Thank you for worrying about me! Lol



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looking good, for the longest time I really didn't think it would make that much difference, I was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Good progress today.
Got the other tower cut, then squared them both up pretty nicely.
I’ve got one of the inserts about 3/4 fitted.

Hopefully will have both 100% fitted tomorrow, then the process of getting them welded in.

I reinstalled a UCA and a shock to check clearance and I’m in good shape. Thanks guys for the encouragement. So far so good.











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