After removing the steering wheel from the column and removing the two bolts holding the steering wheel to the instrument panel (actually, just behind the panel), the only thing holding the steering column in is a tapered washer surrounding the center bolt and the column, near the driver.
Squirt a bit of WD-40 down the center tube, rotate the steering column around a bit (remember to disconnect the steering column wiring first!), then give the column a yank towards you. This should probably dislodge the tapered washer. If not, keep trying, and add more WD-40 to loosen it up. Once the tapered washer is out, you can easily remove the steering column.
All that's left is the center bolt, which looks remarkably like a spear! One look at that and I put 3 point safety belts real quick...I had day dreams about being impaled during an accident!!
The '67 is an odd beast. Some of them had the "long shaft" column and some of them have the "rag joint". I would be willing to bet that yours has the "long shaft", which means that the steering shaft runs from the steering box all the way to the steering wheel.
If you do have the long shaft type of column you have to either slide the column off the top of the shaft, or drop the steering box and pull the shaft out of the column from the bottom. Neither is much fun. Either way, you have to remove the steering wheel to make it happen.
Assuming you have the long shaft type, the general procedure is to:
a. Remove drivers seat (gets in the way and if you don't you might have upholstery damage).
b. Remove the steering column sleeve (per instructions already given).
c. Remove clutch linkage z-bar (if manual transmission).
d. Look for manifold and spark plug interference (you may need to remove plugs and left exhaust manifold or headers).
e. Remove pitman arm from gearbox.
d. Loosen gearbox bolts and then lift gearbox upward (column shaft will tip down - which is why you want the drivers seat out), work around shock tower - which is why you may have to take the manifold or header off, and lift away from engine block.
Whomever made this gearbox and shaft in one piece ought to get a swift kick in the gonads!
I had the car inspected and I was told that the ball joints are bad and that I should probably replace the upper control arms as well. My question is, what are the differences in all of the available non tubular style arms? Will some allow better wheel clearance? I'm going to finally do the...
So like a million other people on the planet I have been going round and round trying to figure out the proper distributor gear to get. I have a billet cam but it's made from 5150 steel not 8620. I don't want to use a bronze gear. thinking melonite one or composite. I trust real world advice on...
Loading on options seems to be a past time among some mustang owners. I get it. But I also appreciate a stocker "grocery getter" because I suspect far more of those were sold 50 years ago than an A code GTs with 4-speed stick.
I've been reading a thread this week about dealer installed...
When Jim Clark won the 1965 Indy 500 one of his prizes was an early notchback racer. Anyone know who came up with the unique ducting for the front brakes? (Clark raced for Colin Chapman/Lotus-Ford in Formula One and also at Indy.) I had never seen those before, but a wicked serious look...
I posted a question regarding updates on the suspension of my 68 Mustang Coupe and now I thought I would ask if anyone knows who produces suspension parts the are really 100% made in the USA ? Like the rubber bushings and the fabricated or pressed steel uppers and lowers and even the bolts. I...