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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to replace my 2 barrel intake with a stock 4v intake and Street Avenger 570 carburetor. I've never removed an intake from a V8 before.

I know I need to remove the antifreeze. Will draining from the radiator work or do I need to drain it from the block plugs?

Do I need to change the oil at the same time? I just changed it not too long ago and if I don't need to I would rather not.

If anyone has tips to add I'm all ears.
 

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Re: placing an Intake

I use a shop vac when scraping the old gaskets.
Get some long bolts and cut off the heads to use as alignment posts when lowering the intake in place.
Dave
 

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Re: placing an Intake

There was a great post on this topic here several years ago from a member named Whistler. I can't find that post for the life of me, but I cut and pasted the text of it to a word document back when I installed mine. Here it is:

How to install an intake manifold
Installing an intake manifold is very simple as far as the level of complication involved in general mechanics. However there are some "Do's and Don'ts" that every professional auto tech follows, mostly because they have had to redo a job in the past, maybe several of them.
Here's some tips;

First off DON'T use silicone RTV around the intake port seals. If you want a demonstration of why, squeeze out a blob on something and let it cure for a couple of days and then drop it into a cup of gasoline. After a little while is will swell up and eventually dissolve away to nothing. That's not to mention that it will squeeze out into the intake ports and create a "blockage ring" that will severely compromise flow. THEN it will dissolve as the gas/air mix washes over it when the engine is running, and this stuff all goes right on through the engine. You can use the silicone ring gaskets because the ring is back away from the edge of the port and the gasket itself is what comes in contact with the fuel mix. The ring is a second line of defense and these gaskets work very well. The ONLY sealer product that will not dissolve in gasoline is Permatex Aircraft grade sealer and that is what almost all professionals use.

CLEAN the head surfaces, the end seal surfaces, and the sealing surfaces of the manifold with some type of solvent that dries completely. I use alcohol or brake cleaner. The main point is that there is no oil left on the surfaces - sealer wont seal to oil.

So, with a standard intake gasket wipe silicone on around the water ports on the end of each head SPARINGLY with your finger, and drag a little line out to the end seal area. Then squeeze a large line of silicone (at least a 1/4") across each end seal boss on the block. Don't bother even pulling the cork or rubber end seals out of the package. Those are a throwback to the days before good quality automotive silicone and won't do you a lick of good today.

USE guide studs in the 4 corner bolts - one on the end of each head. You can make these easily by buying long bolts and cutting off the heads and grinding these off smooth and rounded. Screw them in finger tight.

Lay the intake gaskets on the gasket card with the "This side up" down. Brush a fairly healthy layer of Permatex Aircraft sealer around each intake port ring. Then set each seal down over the guide studs on the heads ("This side up" up) and seat the lower corners down even into the silicone on the end seals.

Brush another fairly healthy coat of Permatex Aircraft sealer around the ports on the intake manifold, and then LIGHTLY spread silicone around the water passages on each end of both sides and do a small wipe over to the end seal corners, (Remember to do the front and back on both sides - even though there is no passages on the rear, it still needs to be sealed).

Then just set the manifold down over the guide studs. On many engines the intake bolts need to be sealed, if only so oil won't climb the bolts and leak out under the bolt heads. I use the Pematex as it gives a good torque value and does not harden so you can retorque later without a problem. Use a very small dab on the threads, it doesn't take much.

Drop all the bolts into the unused holes and starting in 2 opposing holes (one on each side) of the middle holes - tighten these center bolts "2 finger tight". (That means holding the ratchet close to the head between your thumb and first finger). Then progressively do the rest like that. Now remove the guide studs and do those four. Now do all the bolts "2 finger tight " again, they will all be loose again at this point.

Almost done. Now torque the intake using the factory pattern and spec, and then do it again and again until no bolts pull up when you draw the torque. Let it sit for about 1 hour and do it again one more time.

OK, now walk away until tomorrow and torque it again. You're done. I've been using this procedure for many years and never have a leak, or sealing problem on the ports. I hope this helps save you a lot of hassles.
 

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Some very good tips here, and some of these tricks are especially useful when doing a heavy a$$ iron intake. Using cut-off bolts as locating pins is a real lifesaver; otherwise you might get it on crooked three times in a row...not that I would know anything about that. :lol:
 

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Re: placing an Intake

67TXStang said:
I'm going to replace my 2 barrel intake with a stock 4v intake
On the bottom of the stock intake there is a metal plate held on by 2 rivets. Remove that plate and clean under it. Put the plate back on after you are done cleaning. If the plate and intake are not cleaned, you will get all kinds of black crusty stuff into your engine oil from it.

John
 

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Replacing an Intake

Draining the system from the lower radiator hose should do the trick. No matter what you do though, you will have coolant still in the intake when you take it off because the thermostat will hold a certain amount in there. It's no big deal, just be aware of it when pulling the old one.

A couple things from my experience doing it...

I had that plate taken off, had it cleaned out and then didn't re-install it. It's called an oil baffle, and it's there to prevent hot oil from splashing up on the area of the intake that's under the carb, because supposedly it will affect performance. I had more than one person tell me it wasn't necessary, and I was quite afraid of the rivets falling out and into my lifter valley. I hope I didn't get some bad advice though, as my car is currently not running for what is pretty much an unknown reason.

I just used my carb studs as alignment studs for placing the intake. Either that or you can probably buy studs or threaded rods at the same place you'd buy the bolts that you have to take the extra step of cutting the heads off. I bought the threaded rod that I'm using for carb mounting studs at Lowe's.

These directions say to just re-torque the intake the next day, but when I did it the directions I followed said to do it after the engine had been brought up to temp once and then cooled.

And this is an ideal time to replace everything that requires draining of the cooling system if you don't know when it was put on, or you know and it needs it. While I was doing this, I replaced both rad hoses, both heater hoses, the bypass hose and the water pump. I also took the time to pull the radiator and backflush it with a garden hose, and I backflushed the block with the hose as well. I did a regular chemical flush of the system before adding the coolant back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: placing an Intake

Thanks for all the tips. I feel prepared to tackle the project. I'll probably wait until next weekend at least.

Thanks.
 

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Re: placing an Intake

Milo Bloom said:
I had that plate taken off, had it cleaned out and then didn't re-install it. It's called an oil baffle, and it's there to prevent hot oil from splashing up on the area of the intake that's under the carb, because supposedly it will affect performance. I had more than one person tell me it wasn't necessary, and I was quite afraid of the rivets falling out and into my lifter valley. I hope I didn't get some bad advice though, as my car is currently not running for what is pretty much an unknown reason.
I think you got bum advice.

You do not want hot oil to help heat soak the carb anymore than happens naturally as well as heat up the intake charge.

Locktite the rivets for the oil baffle to keep them coming out .
 

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Re: placing an Intake

Milo Bloom said:
.................
I had that plate taken off, had it cleaned out and then didn't re-install it. It's called an oil baffle, and it's there to prevent hot oil from splashing up on the area of the intake that's under the carb, because supposedly it will affect performance. I had more than one person tell me it wasn't necessary, and I was quite afraid of the rivets falling out and into my lifter valley. I hope I didn't get some bad advice though, as my car is currently not running for what is pretty much an unknown reason..................
the danger of not installing the oil baffle is that the oil will crystalize on the bottom of the hot intake w/o the baffle in place. The crystalized oil chunks will then fall off into the lifter valley and be part of the oil flow. You don't want those very hard bits of debris getting into your oil pump, etc.

You were right about not reusing the rivets. The accepted fix is to tap the holes to accept a 1/4" short bolt.

Z. Ray
 

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Once the intake is removed shove plastic grocery bags down into each intake port. After scraping the gaskets hold the bags in place and vacuum all the debris off the top of them. Continue to vacuum them as you pull them out. Put in new ones. Leave them in there until just before the intake install.
 

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Another thing I did not see mentioned, be prepared for the weight of the thing. I had a buddy in HS that removed his and wasnt expecting the weight when he pulled the old one and set the corner on the fender to rest it and put a nice ding in the fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I installed in intake tonight. Instead of the stock intake, I purchased a Weiand Stealth intake.

I read all the posts I could find about installing an intake. It was fairly split between using the cork end gaskets or just RTV. I coated the cork with high tack gasket sealant, put them on, put RTV on top of them, and then installed the intake. Not sure if this was a mistake but it is done now.

I've read many postings about intake leaks. What are the symptoms of an intake leak? I don't plan to start the car up until this weekend (need a heater elbow to arrive from NPD). I want to ask in advance so I can identify it rather than think there is something wrong with the new carb.

Thanks.
 

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67TXStang said:
I installed in intake tonight. Instead of the stock intake, I purchased a Weiand Stealth intake.

I read all the posts I could find about installing an intake. It was fairly split between using the cork end gaskets or just RTV. I coated the cork with high tack gasket sealant, put them on, put RTV on top of them, and then installed the intake. Not sure if this was a mistake but it is done now.

I've read many postings about intake leaks. What are the symptoms of an intake leak? I don't plan to start the car up until this weekend (need a heater elbow to arrive from NPD). I want to ask in advance so I can identify it rather than think there is something wrong with the new carb.

Thanks.
]

The symptoms will be high idle, hesitation on acceleration, surging; an idle the moves all over the rpm map, and any other lean running symptom. You might even hear a whistling sound.

sounds like you did your homework and you'll probably have zero problems. The only thing I did differently was to use 3-M yellow weather-stripping where you used hi-tack.

Z.Ray
 
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