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I finally got the motor on my 68 with an i6 200 running and now I am moving onto the brakes. I am rebuilding the drums and need to change all the brake lines. I know it is personal preference but what would you guys recommend as far as the lines are concerned? Should I get pre bent stainless or would you recommend getting a roll of nickel copper brake line and bending it myself? If I were to get pre bent where have you guys had good luck with getting it from? Thanks in advance!
 

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NIckel copper is definitely the way to go. Stainless steel is very unforgiving to work with and flaring. Also, be prepared for leaks which means moving lines and its waaaaay easier with the nickel copper.
 

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If I am making my own I use Poly armour lines as it is easy to work with. If I buy a pre bent line I use the stainless. Never had a leak using it but after I snug the fitting down the first time I loosen them and retighten it before bleeding.
 

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I replaced all of my lines with stainless in 1998, they fit perfectly and still look brand new. Well worth the money and saving the time and stress of bending my own.
 

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I used pre-bent stainless for most of mine. Agree SS is harder to work with and flare. Tried bending some short ones for around the master cylinder and adjustable prop valve and combo valve but finally gave up and used nickel/copper. Much easier to bend on short radius compared to SS and ever plain steel.
 

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NiCopp does not corrode at all. It is really easy to work with and will last as long as stainless. It's not very pretty at the show. It's about the color of copper tubing that's been sitting around a few years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If I go with stainless where would you suggest I get it from? I have been getting most of my stuff from CJ’s.
 

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I used pre bent SS. Since I have custom brakes and a front to rear proportioning valve I had to do a lot of flares myself. Double flaring SS is a problem with many hand flare tools and you end up with a sigle flare. Possibly the
Eastwood Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool for $200 would work.
 

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I used pre bent SS. Since I have custom brakes and a front to rear proportioning valve I had to do a lot of flares myself. Double flaring SS is a problem with many hand flare tools and you end up with a sigle flare. Possibly the
Eastwood Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool for $200 would work.
The Eastwood tool has some difficulty with stainless. I had a hard time with the tubing just sliding through the holders instead of holding firm and flaring the end. I could eventually get some done but with some difficulty. I was surprised for sure. Otherwise the Eastwood tool saved me A LOT of time versus a hand held flaring tool with steel and nickel copper.
 

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I have used stainless lines from Inline tube on other applications in the past. I picked them up at the factory and got to watch the bender for a bit...

Yes they can leak as they need to be very tight and you can have issues with the tube nuts not holding up to get them tight.

For my 66 I will use pre bent but not stainless. Just not sure what mods I will be doing for the master and prop valve. Classic in OKC is about $100 ish depending on the year. Will probably just have them bring them down to the swapmeet at the end of the month.
 

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If I go with stainless where would you suggest I get it from? I have been getting most of my stuff from CJ’s.
My stainless stuff was pre-bent and pre-flared, fit perfectly and has been leak-free since 1998...it came from Mustangs Unlimited years ago, but Classic Tube still makes it all I think. Hit up NPD or Virginia Classic Mustang, even CJs if they offer it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I will have to check them out. I’m leaning towards getting the pre bent SS.
 

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SS has the best look, but a pita to work with. If you go this route I would recommend pre-bent lines, but sealing could still be an issue. NiCoop is very nice to work with, but the color is not every bodies taste.
Do you have issues with rust in your area?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rust is an issue in my area but mainly due to the winter months. I am in southern PA, but this car will never see the snow and as much as I can help it, it won’t see rain either.
 
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