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Holy cow! The d/s bolt rusted to the sleeve-broke 2 sawzall blades, and bent one. I finally broke out the grinder and cut the head off the bolt and banged the hell out of it with a BMFH!
2 hours of waiting for penentrant to soak in,3 blades and it's finally out! The p/s came out no problemo!
Tomorrow the new ones go in and then my new gas tank,brake lines,and detailed rear diff(I hope).
Oh well, at least now I know I'm starting to make progress.
AAAAAHHHH, The joys of Mustangs!

Was Bob Emmerich on old forum
 
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Hey Bob,

When I installed new rear springs, I used heavy duty shackles. These were hard to assemble on one side - the left, I think - because of gas tank interference. Make sure you install the springs and shackles BEFORE your gas tank. It should be alot easier!

Thanks,

Mike
'66 Springtime Yellow Coupe
289, slightly warmed over
driven daily
 

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Know what you mean. I had to cut off both forward leaf spring bolts. Both lower control arm bolts. Use a nut spliter on the Idle arm bolt. Cut a hole in the frame to install a new crossmember nut . weld on front frame sections for the bumper mount brackets. AHHH!!!!!!. Fine ford engineering.

My son got me into this and I'm having a ball
 
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If you ever have to do this again....I used a metal cutoff blade for a skill saw in my high speed Milwaukee drill. I had the thing out in about 10 minutes but that was after I wasted a couple hours trying to get the sucker out!

Adrien.

65 GT Coupe all dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe all sheet metal done, next is assy.
69 Mach 1, SWMBO say don't you dare take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, daily driver.
 

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I replaced the rear springs in my 67 fastback about 2 months ago with the gas tank installed, and didn't have one problem at all the first side took me about 45 minutes and after I did the first side I knew what I had to do with the second side and that took me about 20 minutes. Remember to unbolt the shocks first and then after that it is pretty cut and dry. It was really easy for me.
 
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Put some copper grease on the new bolts, it prevents seizing from then on. Makes you wish they did that when they built the cars...
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I may not have vast experience in Mustang restoration or restomodding (but I'm getting it!), but I do know one thing....a Sawzall and TUNGSTEN blades will get it out in a matter of minutes. I was on my back in wet gravel with the Russ'stang on stands trying EVERYTHING I could think of until I bit the financial bullet and sprung for a 3 pack of tungsten blades. Zip, zip, zip, they were off. Now I know why they cost more, they WORK!!

When I can't stand, I must lean...
When I can't see, I must believe....
 

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Yeah, it is a pain. We used about 4 high-quality blades on each side. Not cheap, but we got both sides apart in a little over an hour. Makes you understand why some people will put 'em back together with anti-sieze.

There's just no other way to do it.

Glenn Morgan 66 GT Fastback 351w+toploader
 
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Well I was debating whether to do this myself or take my new springs to a suspension shop. . . the question I have is; how do you setup the vehicle so that there's no tension in the springs. I have jackstands under the frame, and a hydraulic jack under the differential, but I'm afraid if I try and take off the springs with tension in em', I'm going to do some major damage to something (like maybe my face - WHACK). How do you do this?????
 
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I wouldn't wory, as you seem to have taken every pre-caution. Just remember to go slowly and definately wear safety goggles. Good luck, Bob

Was Bob Emmerich on old forum
 
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