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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying hard to start my 65 and don't seem to be getting a spark.
I have changed the Coil, Plugs, Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, Solenoid, Battery, Battery Wires, New Carburetor.
So now new points and condenser.
Are all the point kits just about the same or so I need to Order Motorcraft from on of the mustang places.
All the local chain places have their own brand but non carry Motorcraft.
O'reilly, Advance, Autozone, Napa
Should I just pick the best they offer and not overthink it
 

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Sounds like you're just throwing parts at it. Need to do some troubleshooting.

Have a test light? Connect the clip to ground and then connect the probe to the positive side of the coil. You should see power at the + side with ignition on and brighter when cranking.

If that works, put the test probe on the negative side of the coil. It might be on if the points are open with the ignition on. Then while cranking the engine, you should see the light go off and on, indicating the points closing and opening.

Try that and let us know the results.

But to answer your question, Motorcraft are the best, then Standard or similar brands, only use Made in USA brands. They'll last vs the cheap China junk.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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NAPA's gold brand are a good quality. However, I do agree, just don't throw parts at it. Think it through and trouble shoot using known best practices. Begin with "HoustonGlock's" advice.
 
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Standard Ignition Blue box is avail at O'Reilly Auto . Motorcraft is also fine to use .
 

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I am trying hard to start my 65 and don't seem to be getting a spark.
I have changed the Coil, Plugs, Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, Solenoid, Battery, Battery Wires, New Carburetor.
So now new points and condenser.
Are all the point kits just about the same or so I need to Order Motorcraft from on of the mustang places.
All the local chain places have their own brand but non carry Motorcraft.
O'reilly, Advance, Autozone, Napa
Should I just pick the best they offer and not overthink it
What coil is it?
If the points are opening and closing and the electrical paths are good, you should be making secondary voltage.
 

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Yes, the first thing is to stop replacing parts. For example, if you have no spark, it's hard to see how the solenoid, battery, battery wires, or carburetor could have anything to do with it.

Start at the beginning. You you have electricity in the + wire coming to the coil? If so, how much? If not, problem found.
 

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NAPA Echlin used to be as good or better than Motorcraft, but no longer. Very inconsistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys the replacing parts was what I did before I even tried to start her.
When I made the decision to get her back on the road I decided to replace all the stuff that could go bad under the hood.
Six plus years of sitting I decided it needed these new parts.
 

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The good ones are made by standard ignition and sold under numerous brands. Standard is the Oem for GM Ford and Chrysler. I used to buy silver streak from my supplier which was another standard ignition rebadge at the time. Still have a few sets of points. But these days it can be hit or miss since there is such a small market for points. I would imagine most of the big names making them probably made one last large run of them and then sold off the tooling and when those parts are gone you will have to hope there are import ones. (thats what I would do if I were making parts)

Personally I would go with electronic ignition. I don't even know if I still have a dwell meter as the last thing I used those on were computer controlled carbs to set the primary jet needle solenoid.( I hated those things) If you rule everything else out check the distributor itself. I have seen some that were so worn that they didn't open the points enough and some the shaft bushings would be worn causing issues as well.
 

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If you decide to go with the Standard points, don't go with the "T" series. Easily identified with a "T" at the end of the part #. In this case, T stands for "[email protected]".
 

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If you decide to go with the Standard points, don't go with the "T" series. Easily identified with a "T" at the end of the part #. In this case, T stands for "[email protected]".

True. That was their jobber line that was sold to repair shops.

All the parts companies were big into that often selling their parts in plain white boxes with a part number on it. Funny that people that had their car repaired at small independent shops and many of them used some really crappy quality parts for many years. When you can buy a part at a fraction of the price shops are willing to use it for profit and they can have a bunch of parts inventory at a low price. It was amazing how cheap many of those plain boxed parts were.
 

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I used to get the good Standard / BWD points with copper contacts at O'Reilly's same day or next day delivered. Part#FD8183V I believe.
 
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