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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing my old oil pan - the plug leaked a bit and the pan itself had seen better days.

Anyway, couple of questions:

(1) While I've got the oil pan off, is there anything I should inspect on the bottom of the engine?

(2) There is some "grit" on the bottom of the old oil pan (feels like grit when you rub it between your fingers) - about the size of grains of sand (about 50 grains total). Some of these grains are metal shavings. The engine runs fine. It was rebuilt by the previous owner ~65K miles ago. The oil plug is not magnetic so it does not attract any metal. I've never seen any metal when I've changed the oil previously, so I assume that this is a total accumulation since the rebuild. Just wondering if I should be concerned by this. Anything else I should check?
 

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A small amount is normal. You’ll get some from the original break in. Some of it could be sand slowly working its way loose from the original casting of the block.

While you have the pan off, inspect the oil pickup screen. And if the rear main leaks at all now is the time to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
A small amount is normal. You’ll get some from the original break in. Some of it could be sand slowly working its way loose from the original casting of the block.

While you have the pan off, inspect the oil pickup screen. And if the rear main leaks at all now is the time to replace it.
Thanks.

Is it possible to replace the rear main seal without separating engine from transmission? If so, is there a "how to" article/post somewhere on just how to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Apparently it can be replaced without separating engine/trans... just found Kelly's writeup on the forum. Reading it now.
 

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Interested in this also..
Plus, I bet there are some great photos/stories of what's been found in oil pans or pick up screens over the years..

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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I had a problem wrestling the one on my '66 back on for some reason (on my back lying under the car). When I finally got it seated I didn't notice that the center rear part of the gasket had slipped a little. I now have a minor leak there. I bought a new one piece gasket and am thinking I will glue it down in that area front and back with a little silicone and let it cure first. I'll get to it one of these days. . .
 

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Apparently it can be replaced without separating engine/trans... just found Kelly's writeup on the forum. Reading it now.
If you have the modern 1 piece style it can’t be replaced without pulling the tranny.

If you have the old rope style I believe it can be replaced but I have never done one. Most cars will have the 2 piece neoprene seals. You have to loosen your crank bearing caps to release the tension on the seal. Then you have to use a punch to tap it out (there is an internal steal rod in the seal that you hit with the punch and the seal will rotate out after a couple good hits.)

When putting the oil pan back on, I lightly seal the gasket to the pan, let it dry, then add a light coat of sealant to the top of the gasket before putting it back in place.
 

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'66 289 - Replaced pan back in March.
Oil Pan Gasket St 289 (FelPro) https://www.johnsmustang.com/1965-1973-mustang-oil-pan-gasket-set-260-289-302-boss-302
Oil Pan 289 https://www.johnsmustang.com/1965-1973-mustang-oil-pan-260-289-302-blue
Oil Pan Pickup Tube and Screen https://www.johnsmustang.com/1965-1973-mustang-oil-pump-pick-up-tube-screen-289-302
Oil Pan Bolt Kit https://www.johnsmustang.com/1964-1973-mustang-oil-pan-bolt-kit-6-cyl-8-cyl-sb-ford-22-pcs
3.35oz Blue Gasket Silicone
Took my time - about 4 hours and I'm slow. No Issues, just make sure the 2 rubber seals are positioned correctly. I used a small amount of Silicone in each of the corners. The rear pan seal is the hardest to get situated into place. Follow the book on tightening the bolts pattern and ft lbs. My garage floor looks great, no leaks!
I've included the pics of the crude in the bottom of the pan. Did it on my back with front of car on ramps.
 

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