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replacing tie rods...easy?

2156 Views 6 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  sloan
Was going to take my 67 in ,and the cost is 160.00to replace all 4.Looking under the car ,it looks like they just pop off.Is it as easy as it looks.Anything to watch out for?Any special tools? Thanks .Has p.s.
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should be pretty easy, first loosen the adjusting sleeve, then you need a seperator for the taper, count the turns when removing so you get it close when you put the new one in. then get an alignment
Its a cake job.

Does that 160 include an alignment afterwards?

To do it yourself you will need.
1. The new tie Rods
2. Air Hammer (not needed but makes it easier)
3. Pickle Fork/Tie rod speader
4. Grease Gun
5. Wrench
6. Jack (easier to pull tie rods with wheel removed IMO)

Take the nuts of the old tie rods and seperate the outer tie rod from the spindle and the inner from connecting bar (forgot name).

Take the inner and outers out in one peice so you can set up your new inner and outers with adjusting sleeve to the same size.

Do this on both sides. Reinstall, torq bolts, install cotter pin and grease fittings.

If you get the new Rod close enough to same length as the old you might be able to get away without an alignment.
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That's not a bad price if it includes an alignment.
160.00 ,no alignment.This is Canada,eh.Sounds pretty easy.Think i will tackle it.Thanks again
$160! What a rip! I did it myself and had the alignment later ($35). I was quoted only $60 for the whole job if I let them do it.
It's very simple. The hardest part for me has always been getting the tie rods out. They get pretty tight. If you don't have a pickle fork to get them lose, try this:

Take the nuts off the (outer) tie rod. Turn it upside down, and beat the crap out of it with a hammer. This method is of course if you're replacing the tie rod, because any hitting of the rod will damage the threads and/or nut. After it breaks lose, take the nut off (probably harder because the threads were use a wrench), and finish poking it out with a large phillps screwdriver.

The same can be down for the inner tie rods. Make sure you get jack stands when getting under a car. Don't relay on a jack or cinder blocks or bricks. The $10-$20 for jack stands are worth the investment.

As previous said, there are basically some nuts that keep the sleeves (what the tie rods go into) on the rods. Loosen the nuts. The "count the turns" method is valid if the tie rod buy as a replacement is the same as the orig tie rod (which is usually the case). Anyway, you need to get it aligned afterwards. Call before you take it to an alignment shop. Since they use computers these days, some computers don't have these old cars in them, and the data cannot be manually entered. I had to call about 5 places before I found an old school guy who did a great job. (Alan Hendric in East Nashville off of gallatin road near the eastland intersection for those future readers).

Good luck.
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