[gary pruett]

Well, I'm getting very close to firing up my D code 289 after setting in my garage for 12 years. I had to remove the engine to replace some leaking freeze plugs,then decided to replace manual steering with stock P/S which took a bit of doing to find all the right parts. Thats all done now, engine back in. Need to double check all the steering tightening specs because I can't remember if I did that at the time that I put it all together. New battery.. I'm mainly concerned with initial lubrication and with gas delivery. I drained the tank and will be putting in fresh gas. Should I get rid of any residual gas in line/pump, carb, etc? Any prelube ideas for engine?

 

[gary pruett]

Pull the plugs and put a couple ounces of fresh engine oil in each cylinder. Rotate the engine a couple revolutions by hand and reinstall the plugs.

Pre-fill the carburetor float bowls using a small funnel through the vent tubes.

Ideally, pull the distributor (make sure you mark the rotor location on the distributor housing and the housing location somewhere on the engine. I use a paint pen or WiteOut pen) and run the oil pump (counter clockwise) with an electric drill for about 10 seconds after oil pressure is obtained (you'll know when the drill starts "bogging"). If not an option, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap and ground it and crank the engine until oil pressure begins to register on the gauge.

Thanks Burt. Is it obvious how to connect the drill to oil pump? Also, is it sufficient to just fill the P/S pump reservoir (separate reservoir mounter on fender inner wall)? Or should I disconnect the P/S pump belt and do that as a separate process after I get the engine going.