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I am proudly restoring a 67 GT FB. So far I have gutted it all, media blasted the body, and now I am in the middle of replacing my floor pans. Boy what fun...NOT! Taking out the pans were a pain, though I did use a cutting wheel. One of my many questions relates to the sealer I noticed around seam areas. It is a black type tar based sealer. Is it vital that I re-seal this area with equal. I can on assume it was for rust preventative(which didn't work, otherwise I won't be replacing pans) or for noise?? Once I get the pans in I am after the motor box area. I will be repainting complete to prep for the motor. I know that some of you have upgraded to a t-5 or put in a tremec 5 speed from a 4 speed. I very much would like to, but I don't want to go through alot of conversion. I am thinking of t-5 with a spacer plate and keeping the original clutch system. Could some please share their notes on any mistakes or advantages to the conversion. It would be extremely helpful. Thank You! Bill
 

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I haven't done the T-5 or any thing, but I know that topic has been discussed a lot. You could do a search of past posts.
 

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Bill,
I have the T-5 conversion useing the original bellhousing and
clutch. It works pretty good. Compared to replacing your floors, the trans swap should be a piece of cake. If I were
to do it again, (which i probably will) I would have gone with
a Tremec 3550 or Tremec TKO. My HP is a liitle higher then stock and I worry about blowing my T-5 apart. Here's a link
for some swap kits, go to the Ford section and scrol all the way down. http://www.darkhorseperformance.com/

Regards,
Bill

Regards,
BillGear

302 Roller, 5 speed, FTI Custom cam, AFR heads, 17 TT2's, Holley 650dp,see it at http://www.289mustang.com
http://www.289mustang.com/images/vmfcar.jpg
 
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Thank You! I looked and found a great article with Ford Muscle cars. It went over all. I can't wait to get started!
 
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Thanks for the post. I went to DarkHorse site. It looks like they have everything I need. Not sure about their pricing however...Yet it will be a complete set-up vs piece meal using a used tranny and adding spacers and so on. It may be better to go completely new with a complete kit rather then trying to piece it together??? Thanks! Bill
 

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I recently installed a Tremec...originally I was going to use the Darkhorse kit but figured I may save some money doing it myself. I bought the tranny for $1150 w/ free shipping from Raceparts2. The benefit of the Tremec (besides beefier construction than the T5 that unfortunately comes with a weight penalty) is that it shares the toploader flange bolt pattern which makes drilling your own spacer a pretty straightforward affair. I used a 10x11 peice of surplus aluminum plate ($1.50/pound) but it was attached to about 20 lbs of other aluminum so I overpaid a bit there. I could have got just the plate for about $10.00. I spent a couple hours doing an accurate layout with a straightedge and calipers. I undercut the center hole with a Milwaukee hole saw ($25.00) and cut it to final dimension with a flycutter and homeade tool from a 6" long 3/8" blank mounted in my drill press ($10.00). This ended up taking me about a week of one to one and a half hour work periods in the garage. By the time it was finished I was running out of time and had to put the car on the road so I broke down and bought a Darkhorse crossmember ($129.00+shipping). I also bought some ARP studs and nuts to attach the tranny to the Bellhousing ($24.00)...I would reccomend bolts though as I had problems installing the tranny with the studs...I ended up having to remove the studs so I could rotate the tranny back and forth during installation then install the studs like bolts. I made a small aluminum adaptor with some leftover 3/4" plate to adapt my existing handle to the Tremec shifter...but it ended up being too bulky and cut up my shifter boot. I still haven't figured out a good solution for that other than buying another handle (too expensive) or hacking and drilling mine (unwilling to do) or fabricating my own (don't have time right now). So all in all the whole project cost me about $1350, $150 less than the Darkhorse kit, but with considerably more effort and no shiny new Hurst shift lever. It would have been less if I had time to fabricate my own crossmember, but I didn't and I had to break down and buy it. Anyway...I just wanted to pass along this data to help you make an informed choice on the Darkhorse kit or going at it piecemeal. The overdrive is great on the highway...it's so nice cruising along with the 351 just purring. I used to have to move over or really rev the engine when freeway speeds got fast but no more. I can cruise with the best of them and still have a little fuel economy.
 
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