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Discussion Starter #1
First the bad part....

The damn front and rear intake gasket leaks like crazy! Damn things were sliding all around pissing me off... arg, now I have to take it apart and try again. I will try the 4 headless bolts and let the seals stick in place before I try dropping the intake down.... I hate that thing.

Anyway, enough bad stuff, onto the good stuff! After what I would consider a mild to medium port job (was more than a port match but less than hoggin the whole thing out), the car definately has more power! The sound of it has also changed, it has more of a gutteral growl to it, sounds good. It revs quicker, and seems to run smoother too. There is a noticeable decrease in engine braking, a very noticable decrease I should say. The engine would quickly slow down the car when I took my foot off of the gas before, but now it slows it down a lot less.

Overall, it really improved power and driveability. Minus the fact that my intake gaskets are leaking, I am very happy with it. I would recommend it to anyone with a spare 20+ hours and a lot of patience :: :p.

If I were to make a guess as to the increase in HP that the port job made, based on my butt-o-meter, I would guess 20-30 HP. Not a large amount, but enough to feel the difference.

So off I go to fix the damn intake....
 

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no one except maybe you uses those gaskets on the front or rear of intake.. A large bead of silicone will do the job just fine. Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL! I tried it first without the gasket, but the manifold was being a pain and it wasn't working for me. But I may pull it off and just try the silicon again, using the aid of the 4 headless bolts (hell, even two would work).
 

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Dave,

Go pick up (4) studs at the hardware store, work as guides and you just leave them in there... Congrats on completing your task!!
 

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Cool! Were those the heads I got ya?

Robert
 

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Dave, use the permatex" Right Stuff" in place of the cork gaskets and allow it to skin up a little before installing the intake. You can use old intake bolts with the heads cut off to make the 4 alignment studs. I used a very small amount Permatex ® Hylomar to hold the intake gasket in place. Put everything together then remove studs and replace with intake bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Robert...

I had a very small budget to get my smoking valve guides fixed. I thought about using the heads I got from you but they needed a lot more machine work than the ones that were currently on my car, not to mention needing new valves, valve springs, etc. I got a hell of a good deal on the work done to the heads that were on my car... new guides (replaced old worn out guide liners with new ones), valve seats reground, and valves resurfaced, all for $75, which is a steal. So I am saving the other set of heads for future use (possibly for the GF when she gets her own mustang). And I will build those heads up properly, when the money is more abundant. I did notice that the heads I got from you had a little bit of port work done to them before... the smog bumps were smaller, not gone, but smaller. It came to my attention when I saw how big the unaltered smog bumps were! I probably removed a half inch square of metal out of each exhaust port!
 

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So you can work on those in your spare time. :) Playing 'poker' on saturday?

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Absolutely! And finally I get to go out and play. I haven't seen ya'll in quite some time now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fixed the intake end seals with a nice bead of silicone, and so far, so good.

Thanks for the tips on using the studs in the holes. It was much easier and I got less pissed off at the thing, and one has A LOT to do with the other... ;)
 
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