Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I just got my freshly machined 65 289 long block back from the machine shop. I'm trying to clean and gather parts to start reassembling it. I would like to try and reuse as much as possible the cost is adding up quick and I want to avoid buying things I don't have to. I'm worried about the timing cover and fuel pump eccentric. I read about the JB Weld trick for the pitting on the timing cover so I might give that a try. Just looking for some advice this is my first engine rebuild would you reuse these parts?
743519
743521
743522
743523
743524
743525
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
986 Posts
My timing cover was quite a bit worse for severe corrosion and I tossed it. Well, I don't really toss anything, I tossed it under the house with all the other Mustang parts I am not using. As for re-using parts, I initially thought I would re-use most and then one thing leads to another and now all I have original is the 302 block and a handful of minor parts (including my perfect fuel pump eccentric) like dipstick tubes, some brackets, etc. I guess not original as it was an I6 but original to when I bought it. I could have re-used most parts except the motor internals, but it was so much more fun to research and buy new, and the motor looks so much nicer to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,363 Posts
I'd re-use the timing cover (sealer will fill those small crevices) and get a new eccentric.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2nd 66 and kenash

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,299 Posts
Swap that timing cover for a later one that the seal comes out the front. Pulling the entire front dress off the motor to change the front seal is a pia.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
Timing cover is fine. Use of a later timing cover on an early engine requires use of a 68-69 bolt on timing pointer. Not a big deal but doesn't look stock. The eccentric isn't a problem either , just put some moly paste ( cam lube) on it before installing the fuel pump. I don't see anything that will fail . JB weld "can" come loose from heat cycles AND water flow over it. The corrosion is minor in my experience. DON'T use extra silicone sealer as it usually ends up plugging passages in the radiator after it breaks loose. minimal is OK.
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Run a large flat file across the mating surface of your timing cover and it should be fine. If the pump eccentric is scored, just replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,245 Posts
I reused my timing cover with no issues and would recommend you do the same, if it were me anyway. As stated, run a file over it as best you can and RTV will take care of the rest. I have no opinion on the eccentric since I run an electric fuel pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have edelbrock heads and intake going on so the motor wont look stock anyway. I happen to have a timing cover from a 69 that seems to be in decent shape. It is covered in a thick layer of burnt on oil, but I quickly cleaned off around the water ports and they look to be in pretty good shape. I've got it soaking now and I'll clean it up soon and get a better look at it. A a new fuel pump eccentric is 70+ dollars from what I found unless anyone knows of a cheaper option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
Ernie, the T/C cover will be fine, you could airboard it if you like. Can your machine shop get you a fuelpump eccentric ? I can't see that costing more than $20. Can I ask what part number pistons you have ? I only ask because 9 out of 10 289s & 302s get built with the incorrect ( too short ) pistons. Ask your guys what they used. If you are still assembling, it is not to late to change to the correct # if you must. Do you have a 1 pc or a 2 piece eccentric ? I am retired from a machine shop, but can pop in and get you a part number if you need. LSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
Timing cover is fine. Here a picture of my timing cover during the rebuild. Cleaning, new gasket and grey RTV-> no leaks





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
Run the eccentric, no big deal it won't wear out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ernie, the T/C cover will be fine, you could airboard it if you like. Can your machine shop get you a fuelpump eccentric ? I can't see that costing more than $20. Can I ask what part number pistons you have ? I only ask because 9 out of 10 289s & 302s get built with the incorrect ( too short ) pistons. Ask your guys what they used. If you are still assembling, it is not to late to change to the correct # if you must. Do you have a 1 pc or a 2 piece eccentric ? I am retired from a machine shop, but can pop in and get you a part number if you need. LSG
Here are the sheets I got from the shop with everything i had done. All of the replacement eccentrics I can find online that are the more inexpensive ones have the tab on the back. The original one that was on the engine is a one piece that just has a hole on the back for the cam pin to go through, no tab. The cam came with 2 pins I have the longer one in now for the original eccentric. Could I just swap the shorter pin in and use an eccentric with a tab on the back without causing any issues?
743716
743717
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Run the eccentric, no big deal it won't wear out.
I'm leaning that way. 70-80 bucks is a lot for that little part. It looks bad in the picture but when i actually run my fingernail across it it doesn't catch very much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
Ernie, yes, you can use the shorter cam pin and the inexpensive eccentric. Or, you can polish the old one and run it. It is not under that much stress. And congrats on the 1.608 tall pistons, it seems as though your guys are on the ball ! Good pick. Enjoy your 289, and please keep us posted as to how you're doing ! LSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,936 Posts
I'd polish the fuel pump eccentric and run it. I'd also inspect the lever on the fuel pump, itself, and polish the friction surface. As far as the timing cover goes, I have an old window from a Stanley insulated door that comes in handy for such chores.... I use some 3M 77 spray adhesive to stick sheets of emery paper to the glass, then slide my piece (in this case your timing cover) along the paper to "dress" the sealing surface to a decent finish. Why the old window? Plate glass is usually dead nuts flat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Timing cover is fine. Here a picture of my timing cover during the rebuild. Cleaning, new gasket and grey RTV-> no leaks





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is all the black on there old RTV or does it just look that way? I was able to polish up that fuel pump eccentric pretty well so thanks to everyone for that idea, saved me 70 bucks. Started with 800 grit sandpaper and worked up to 2000, I maybe only spent 10 mins on it. You can still see some marks on it but its smooth, I cant catch anything with my fingernail. I could probably work at it more but I think it will be ok
743883
743884
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top