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Hello,
This is my first Ford inline 6, 200ci in a 1970 ford falcon. I have a question that will be simple for everybody here but I'm not afraid to look dumb and need some help. I am ready to remove the rocker arm assembly and push rods to move onto removing the head, but before I turn any bolts, I'm confused. What is the proper sequence for removing the rocker arm assembly along with the bolts on top of the push rods? Do I remove the bolts for the rocker arm assembly along with the bolts on top of the push rods? I'm taking this one cautiously (probably too cautiously) but I wanted to make sure I'm moving in the right direction before I remove something in the wrong order. Rocker assembly bolts first, or pushrod bolts first? Thank you
760172
 

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When you're removing them it doesn't really matter. You could just remove the rocker shaft pedestal hold down bolts and never touch the rocker arm adjusting screws. But since you need to have the adjusting screws backed out when you put it back together I would loosen them first and then remove the pedestal bolts.
 

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Hi, Happy 4th and Welcome!....
Whether you're new to this type of work or a veteran, start with a plan, a good work area, and room fro place the parts in an organized manner. For the greasy stuff, like what you have, I've used a short sided double 6 pack card board box. Drain the fluids. This is the perfect time to flush the coolant system and check the functionality of thermostat (TStat). What's the condition of the hoses and belts? Use your notepad for making a list.
Have nearby, a pencil and notebook , paper towels, gloves (if used) and a cell phone for taking numerous pics.
3. If you plan to reuse these parts, place them in the same order you remove them.
Looking at your pic, remove the rocker assembly first, release each bolt the same turns front to rear, then repeat until all of the tension is released, Set this assembly aside. You can place the bolts in the same holes they originated.
4. Pull each push rod (PR) from each position and place it in such way to return it to it's same position. You do this to keep the wear patterns relative to its respective lifter and rocker.
5. Remove the exhaust bolts and pull away from the studs or bolts. (Add a new gasket to the list) LEAVE THE PLUGS IN PLACE FOR NOW........
6. Begin removing each head bolt, but, only a 1/4 to 1/2" only. Why? If the head has been on this block for 50 + years, it ain't going to give up its position easily. If it does want to budge by simply lifting, Crank the engine a few times the compression for you. At least, this has worked for me with stubborn heads. My 4.2 L Jag 6 banger is famous for not wanting to lift and it's on studs, a situation worse than head bolts.
If I've forgotten a step, I'm sure others will chime in with their thoughts. Good Luck!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
When you're removing them it doesn't really matter. You could just remove the rocker shaft pedestal hold down bolts and never touch the rocker arm adjusting screws. But since you need to have the adjusting screws backed out when you put it back together I would loosen them first and then remove the pedestal bolts.
Perfect. So those bolts are there to adjust the rocker arms on top of the valves? And what you're saying is after I put it back together I'll have to readjust the valves anyway
 

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Hi, Happy 4th and Welcome!....
Whether you're new to this type of work or a veteran, start with a plan, a good work area, and room fro place the parts in an organized manner. For the greasy stuff, like what you have, I've used a short sided double 6 pack card board box. Drain the fluids. This is the perfect time to flush the coolant system and check the functionality of thermostat (TStat). What's the condition of the hoses and belts? Use your notepad for making a list.
Have nearby, a pencil and notebook , paper towels, gloves (if used) and a cell phone for taking numerous pics.
3. If you plan to reuse these parts, place them in the same order you remove them.
Looking at your pic, remove the rocker assembly first, release each bolt the same turns front to rear, then repeat until all of the tension is released, Set this assembly aside. You can place the bolts in the same holes they originated.
4. Pull each push rod (PR) from each position and place it in such way to return it to it's same position. You do this to keep the wear patterns relative to its respective lifter and rocker.
5. Remove the exhaust bolts and pull away from the studs or bolts. (Add a new gasket to the list) LEAVE THE PLUGS IN PLACE FOR NOW........
6. Begin removing each head bolt, but, only a 1/4 to 1/2" only. Why? If the head has been on this block for 50 + years, it ain't going to give up its position easily. If it does want to budge by simply lifting, Crank the engine a few times the compression for you. At least, this has worked for me with stubborn heads. My 4.2 L Jag 6 banger is famous for not wanting to lift and it's on studs, a situation worse than head bolts.
If I've forgotten a step, I'm sure others will chime in with their thoughts. Good Luck!
kenash, thank you for your reply. All sound advice. I've done engine work on Mazdas Hondas and Toyotas including head gaskets but for some reason I am a bit intimidated by this engine. I've been working my way up to deserving this project and I am doing my best taking my time to make sure I do everything correctly.
 

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Perfect. So those bolts are there to adjust the rocker arms on top of the valves? And what you're saying is after I put it back together I'll have to readjust the valves anyway
Yes, the adjusting screws at the end of each rocker arm are used to set the "lash" with solid lifters or the "preload" with hydraulic lifters. When you put it back together each one of those will need to be adjusted. So back them off now so they'll be ready to adjust when you put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, the adjusting screws at the end of each rocker arm are used to set the "lash" with solid lifters or the "preload" with hydraulic lifters. When you put it back together each one of those will need to be adjusted. So back them off now so they'll be ready to adjust when you put it back together.
Thank you. And God bless Texas my friend
 

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Just a quick tip. When you go to pull the head off there's nothing to grab onto on the driver's side of that head. A couple of those rocker assembly bolts with a short chain between them makes it a lot easier to handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just a quick tip. When you go to pull the head off there's nothing to grab onto on the driver's side of that head. A couple of those rocker assembly bolts with a short chain between them makes it a lot easier to handle.
Solid advice thank you Magnus
 
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