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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen post on this set up that people are saying you have to take a chunk out of your frame rails. NOT!!! After the rails are cleaned off the stub comes up from the bottom and the tower plates are from the top. It sandwiches the frame rail. There is a small part of the frame rail lip that needs to be trimmed. The strength added is awsome. Somebody said this conversion weakens the car. No way. COILOVERS generally ride like a box of rocks. Dont buy them if you are not going to race a little. You will sacrifice ride with them and some extra $$$ too. You CAN get this set up cheaper than $2500. I am under $2500 no problem. I have a $500+ big brake kit from ECI brakes, tubulars, and a 90's Mustang GT power rack. This conversion can be done without a shop. You just need the proper tools and a very level flat chunk of concrete to work on. Did I miss anything else? Please let me know and I will try to help you all the best I can.
 

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what sort of finish does the tubular a-arms have?

How hard is it to weld the engine mounts?

Do the fenders have to be removed to do the installation?
 

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lol, i think fenders are the least of the worries
 

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Q: How much did you do it for and what all did you get, and how much do you think that I could do it for?

I have completely new front suspension, 71 disk brakes (all new parts, painted to perfection), and rebuilt power steering (also painted to perfection), and I would love to sell it all and get the mustang 2 setup. How much $$ do you think i would lose out?
 

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The a-arms are a metal finish. No coatings (Heidts Hotrod shop units)
Not hard. Just alot of checking , double checking and re-checking. (at least for me).
I would remove the fenders. Unless you can easily get under the car to weld.
 

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I was going to go with the kit, but I could not bring myself to cutting up an original '66 GT Fastback body. After everything I have spent to rebuild the front end, I could have almost bought the R&C Mustang II set up. Maybe the NEXT project?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is no doubt the best way to put one of these fronts on.
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/45/6D/9352005-2f2f-01BE0129-.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Center the motor in the car by the crank bolt, level the engine without the carb on the intake from side to side, then give the engine alittle tilt down on the trans side. The trans mount usually will do this for you. My mounts weld in before the filler panel is in place for the last time.
My tubulars are plain raw steel...I have to paint alot of small parts so why not get them alittle cheaper this way? Mine are from Speedway Motors in Lincoln Nebraska. Besides being cheaper and better constructed, I was able to pick them up saving me shipping. Saved about $75.
I would clean the whole front off the car like the pic shows because it makes it sooooooooo much easier. The company says you can leave the engine in to do this conversion, but I think thats insane. Much easier to pull than to work around.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Look at what kit you would be interested in and brake it down. I saved a ton by getting my parts elsewhere. Example...spindles. Reconditioned or new these puppys from R&C are $200-$300 a pair! I bought a whole used front for $50 from a junked out 77 Mustang II. Theres my spindals along with the wheel hardware like the dust caps, spindel nuts, mounting bolts, spindel washers, brake line brackets, steering knuckle, power rack for a core, and so on. Why not recondition these parts yourself and save a bunch? In reality I have about $2000 or LESS into it now and I have the $500 big brake ECI kit, tubular a arms, swaybar, tubular strut arms, and a upgraded later model 15:1 quick ratio GT Mustang power rack. I have the matching big brake disk rear kit from ECI on the rear, 17" 9.5 rear rims and tires along with 17" on the front and when I get my fiberglass rear springs, this puppy is going to ride on rails!!!
 
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