[bmcgc]

Ive been screwing around with the kickdown linkage on my 65 289 and finally decided to omit it altogether. Its an around town cruiser and a 55-60mph car on the Interstate. Im not passing anything.

So Ive been debating on keeping the rod linkage or changing to the cable pedal and linkage.

Was 69 the first year for cable?

Im sure I have seen some how to's but cant locate one with a parts list.

Im not interested in an aftermarket setup, I want oem or oem repop.

 

[wicked93gs]

I can answer than yes, 69 was the first year with a cable pedal and the pedal itself will bolt in, I dont use auto transmissions though, so I am unsure about the kickdown setup. I will also add that a properly designed mechanical linkage is always superior to a cable linkage(not that I consider the OEM mechanical linkages all that great)

 

[Woodchuck]

Just curious as to why change anything?

 

[rhutt]

Keep the OE rod linkage! If adjusted correctly. it will offer another 50+ years of trouble free service.

 

[forestg]

I am afraid you will end up with an expensive transmission rebuild if you do not have the kick down operable.

 

[22GT]

Ive been screwing around with the kickdown linkage on my 65 289 and finally decided to omit it altogether. Its an around town cruiser and a 55-60mph car on the Interstate. I'm not passing anything.

These highways don't have on-ramps? It's for acceleration, not just passing.

What's wrong with your linkage? The 65 setup was excellent, Ford only dropped it because it was more expensive than the later setup.

 

[MrFlash]

I had a 71 ranchero with a kickdown rod linkage from carb to C4 transmission.
When I got my 70 mustang it was missing the kickdown linkage. So I just copied what was on the ranchero and it worked great.

The C4 will work just fine without any kickdown linkage. You just have to remember to manually pull it down into 2nd when you mash the throttle.

 

[bmcgc]

I had to make a new throttle rod with helm joints for the Summit carb. So I dont have the necessary bend in the throttle rod to engage the kickdown. The bellcrank also interferes with the new throttle rod.

Maybe my best solution is to use a 67 pedal assembly with the cable kickdown for the C4.

 

[22GT]

By far the easiest thing would have been to attach the stock throttle rod to the Summit carb. If you still have it, that would still be the best way to go. In fact, even if you have to buy a new throttle shaft kit it would still be the cheapest, quickest way to go.

The 66-68 pedal shaft with kickdown arm, cable, and lever would work fine, but cost a lot.

 

[bmcgc]

At this point $100 is a drop in the bucket.

 

[GypsyR]

People have been pulling and tossing their C4 kickdown linkages for years and years. All you have to do is grab the shifter. It's not at all like this an AOD where the TV cable/rod is critical to transmission functionality.
Though when it's me, I like my automatics to BE automatic so I like my kickdown linkages to work.

 

[Nailbender]

When I went from the 2 barrel Ford carb to the Edelbrock and then FiTech I bent my own offset in the aftermarket linkage and it worked fine for the kick down when I had the C4 in the car. I will be at some point in the near future be going to the Lokar cable gas pedal due to it's adjustability. I need 3 pedals all in a row for autocross, and will sell you my linkage for a cheap bottle of wine and shipping!

 

[22GT]

At this point $100 is a drop in the bucket.

OK, then what I'd if I were repairing it is get the complete throttle rod kit, and as Ive done before with Summit carbs is drill a 1/16" hole in the carb end and use a cotter pin and washer to retain it.

If your kickdown bellcrank and rod system is also gone, skip the rod kit, and buy a repro 66-68 throttle, cable, and trans lever. The throttle (pedal shaft) at $60 is the most expensive part of this solution.