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I built a set of the roller coil spring perches with a deviation from the Daze cars version. I used lock collars (available at TSC stores) inboard of the bearings and also drilled access holes for the shocks. I still need to close up the sides and clean up the welds. Very fun project.
 

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That ought to work. I like the retainers. Years ago I also deviated form the original Opentracker design. Instead of welding I decided to do it the machine shop way instead of welding with needle bearings instead of rollers. A project I also enjoyed. Didn't really take pictures but here's one.


 

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I originally planned on the smaller roller bearings with a zerk just like yours, but I could not find a correctly sized one.
 

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That ought to work. I like the retainers. Years ago I also deviated form the original Opentracker design. Instead of welding I decided to do it the machine shop way instead of welding with needle bearings instead of rollers. A project I also enjoyed. Didn't really take pictures but here's one.


Is there any chance you have the part numbers of the bearings you used? I would like to do the same thing.
 

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What keeps the bearing centered in the perch. I see a keeper ring on Davewoxide's perch but I don't see one on GypsyR's or Theyman's
From the Daze instructions found on his website:

"The center shaft can now be slid into the perch. Center it in the journal so that there is an equal amount of lip hanging off on each side. Then take a ball pein hammer and LIGHTLY tap the edge of the pipe bending it in. Bend in two small sections on one end of the shaft and then flip the perch over and tap the edge on two or three spots on the other end of the shaft. Once the center section is held in place, you can finish taping (sic) the edge all the way around the bearing on both sides."
 

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What keeps the bearing centered in the perch. I see a keeper ring on Davewoxide's perch but I don't see one on GypsyR's or Theyman's
The lock collars keep it centered. I also welded them in place instead of trust the set screw to hold. The outer lip is lightly hammerd over.
 

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Is there any chance you have the part numbers of the bearings you used? I would like to do the same thing.
Unfortunately it's not quite that easy. I turned down the pins on a lathe so I could use bearings that fit in the stock sleeve. This gave me misgivings about strength so I consulted a machinist friend. He pulled out a couple of huge reference books after questioning me about the weight of the car and made lots of voodoo material strength mumbo jumbo noises before producing a hand written recipe for heat treating the pins. I have a small heat treating oven. Plus he decreed the finish on my pins was not good enough for a bearing surface. So I turned the pins down a tad more to fit some hardened sleeves from McMaster-Carr. The centers of the pins were not cut down and that's what the bearings are up against. On the outside I simply peened the outer sleeves down to keep the bearing in. You might note the OEM sleeves are peened to help retain the rubber bushing.

If I dig deep enough I believe I have the bearing and sleeve part numbers somewhere even though this was done over ten years ago. As you can see, this isn't a mod for everybody and there's a chance the pins may be weakened by being machined to a reduced diameter.
 
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