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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
anyone have them and do they make a big difference in how the car drives ?
also does anyone have level 2 full suspension kit from Open Tracker on there 67-68 mustang ? if so whats your feed back on it
 

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Roller spring perches are a very nice upgrade. I'm building my car still, so I haven't used mine. I did make my own with Daze's kit and after building them myself, I can tell they are well worth the money (or time if you build them). You can also tell the difference if you have one of each to compare.
 

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Yes, they make the ride much comfier as the suspension can actually articulate when hitting bumps in the road. With that being said, there's going to be an improvement in handling as well! (Yes, I have roller spring perches)

To add upon this, the factory style rubber spring perch is notorious for wearing out over time, especially the aftermarket!
 

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Yes, they make a nice improvement on how the car rides besides letting the suspension do it's thing. I would highly recommend the following. Skip the KYB shocks and go straight to the Bilstein. Buy a caster/camber gauge and look at it as a part of the upgrade and learn to do you're own alignment. If you're serious about making your car handle better you really should be doing your own alignment
 

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Yes to roller perches. Yes to the "drop" Yes to doing your own alignment. I can't speak on the bilsteins...not there yet. Money well spent for sure, or you can make your own.
 

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Maybe I'm the only one :-( but I didn't notice any difference when I changed my 2 years old rubber spring perches for roller versions.
 

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I got a pair of new control arms, BB coils, and perches for free because of frozen perches that were supposedly new. My friend bought a parts car w/ a new front end (according to seller). He moved the new front end onto his project 68 FB. The car sat really high but he thought it was due to no motor/trans. Later w/ drivetrain installed, the car still sat WAY too high, w/ tons of camber...tops of tires leaning in. We tried many things to get front end down, but nothing changed it(you would think a 390/4speed would do it, but no!) We finally contacted opentracker to discuss situation. He felt the issue was either in upper a arms or perches, and encouraged us to look there for issues. The coils, perches, and upper A arms were removed and replaced. Once out... we found the "supposedly new" perchers were frozen, no movement at all. My friend had already bought new uppers, coils, and roller perches to replace the ones in his project. These were installed and I got all the leftovers. Great expertise and service, no attempts to sell us on parts, just great help. My friend opted to buy from opentracker due to the service and knowledge he recieved. He had never heard of them before, but he is a chevy/mopar guy. He is now a firm believer in the roller perches.

I still have the new, frozen perches if you want them! just pay for the shipping and they are yours.
 

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Maybe I'm the only one :-( but I didn't notice any difference when I changed my 2 years old rubber spring perches for roller versions.
I looked at your home page. You're a person of contradictions.
You noticed a difference from the stock old strut rod bushings and new stock strut rod bushings (OE design, whether new or not is HORRIBLE) but don't notice stock perches vs roller perches? Interesting.
Koni vs Monroe....... well you'd have to be dead not so see that difference.
You've got the right subframe connectors I see ;)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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EVERYBODY notices a difference going from whipped elastomer perches to new rollers. The difference between NEW elastomer vs. NEW roller perches would probably be all in your head. Think about what they actually DO.
 

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I looked at your home page. You're a person of contradictions.
You noticed a difference from the stock old strut rod bushings and new stock strut rod bushings (OE design, whether new or not is HORRIBLE) but don't notice stock perches vs roller perches? Interesting.
Correct.....the original ones hardened and made noises under braking......but NO, sorry, I did not notice any difference between stock or roller perches!

Koni vs Monroe....... well you'd have to be dead not so see that difference.
Glad I'm not dead.......BIG difference!


You've got the right subframe connectors I see ;)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995[/QUOTE]
 

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Maybe the perches my friend got were poor quality cheapos, maybe they were frozen from age? I can't say, as I know nothing of their history. I have to say I have not used the new-repop elastomer ones, only used the rollers. Along with every other part of suspension/steering being new or rebuilt - it is hard to attribute the great steering to just the perches. But this formula works for me, so I do it. Could I live w/ new elastomer and tell a difference? maybe. Will I go to them instead of rollers? If the pocket book requires it, or I would try to fabricate my own. But if I have the money, I will stick to rollers. I want to go full roller on everything in the suspension and clutch, but I keep acquiring more projects. Man it's tough.
 

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Maybe I'm the only one :-( but I didn't notice any difference when I changed my 2 years old rubber spring perches for roller versions.
Your not the only one. I didn't notice any difference either but that doesn't mean they aren't doing what they are designed to do. I don't regret installing them and would do it again on the next Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i didint order them yet but for the guys that didnt notice a difference mayb you guys dont drive your car hard in the corners . all i know is when i take a corner now the car dosent shift weight smoothly it happens in sections if that makes any sence loll
 

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Roller perches made a significant difference for me. Try the following experiment. Try to make a stock type perch rotate 30 to 40 degrees. Bolt it to something solid, bolt a bar to it and measure how much force it takes to move it 30 degrees. Several hundred pounds most likely. So when that is on your car the first couple hundred pounds of force will translate into body movement before the suspension gets around to doing its actual job. A good roller bearing spring perch rotates a full 360 degrees with essentially no force (a couple ounces possibly).

When your front tire hits a bump or pot-hole in a fast tight corner you'll notice a big difference - the big difference is the wheel moves instead of the car.

I went for the "full" somewhat lower cost suspension upgrades. Arning/Shelby drop, rod ends on the strut rods instead of rubber (DYI for less than $60), roller bearing perches, and spherical bearings in the lower control arms.
 

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I did the polyurethane bushings in new stock spring perches. They will rotate 360 degrees with very little effort and only cost $20 something bux and a little of my time. I was running out of cash and had to get the car back together. Huge difference compared to the old worn out rubber garbage. I can only imagine what full rollers would be like
 

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I did the polyurethane bushings in new stock spring perches. They will rotate 360 degrees with very little effort and only cost $20 something bux and a little of my time. I was running out of cash and had to get the car back together. Huge difference compared to the old worn out rubber garbage. I can only imagine what full rollers would be like
I also used those in my daily driver, They are the poor mans roller and actually work well. Mine have been going strong for over 4 years now. I used a ceramic grease on the bushings and have never had a squeak.
 

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Roller perches made a significant difference for me. Try the following experiment. Try to make a stock type perch rotate 30 to 40 degrees. Bolt it to something solid, bolt a bar to it and measure how much force it takes to move it 30 degrees. Several hundred pounds most likely. So when that is on your car the first couple hundred pounds of force will translate into body movement before the suspension gets around to doing its actual job. A good roller bearing spring perch rotates a full 360 degrees with essentially no force (a couple ounces possibly).

When your front tire hits a bump or pot-hole in a fast tight corner you'll notice a big difference - the big difference is the wheel moves instead of the car.

I went for the "full" somewhat lower cost suspension upgrades. Arning/Shelby drop, rod ends on the strut rods instead of rubber (DYI for less than $60), roller bearing perches, and spherical bearings in the lower control arms.
A couple things to understand about suspension geometry and Mustang front suspension....

First, the normal suspension travel is FAR less than 30* movement at the perch.

Second, because it's mounted in an elastomer, the resistance increases as the torsional movement increases, so a small movement requires little effort while a large movement requires considerably more effort.

Third, compression or extension of the suspension acts directly upon the coil spring from the first moment of movement. What torsional resistance is imparted on the UCA from the spring perch is progressive, with travel, in BOTH directions.

Fourth, the torque required for the rotational movement of the perch is small when you figure you could generate it with a torque wrench using your own arms when the suspension is moved by one corner of a 3,000 pound car multiplied by the force of acceleration.

Fifth, the vast majority of the force needed to "rotate" the perch is provided by its connection with the lower end of the shock absorber, not the coil spring. The shock remains more or less straight and is bolted solidly to the spring perch. I have, in 40+ years of working on Ford front suspensions of the spring on the UCA, never seen a shock absorber broken off at the bottom from an elastomer spring perch. I have seen PLENTY of worn out spring perches.:yoho:
 

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I went for the "full" somewhat lower cost suspension upgrades. Arning/Shelby drop, rod ends on the strut rods instead of rubber (DYI for less than $60), roller bearing perches, and spherical bearings in the lower control arms.
Tell us more about the rod ends you used.
 
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