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What pain I aborted mission. I’m trying to attempt to do this recovering from carpal tunnel surgery. Takes a lot.
Did you rent or buy your tool? I notice you are in SoCA, there are tons of people around you can hire to do this. I have seen quotes usually $40-$80 per wheel well... check places like Yelp


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I did this on my old 65 fastback and what i discovered was wherever I had spot welded in the new panel was very hard to roll. my car was painted and i did not hurt the paint. Its best to roll the lip with the panel as warm as it can be to avoid cracking the paint.

Now I'm build a 66 coupe that has new quarters and outer wheel tubs. I did not weld the upper lip area that will be rolled. I will roll the lip then finish welding in my spot welds that are pre drilled.

As for the front lips I beat them with a hammer on my garage floor and surprisingly turned out perfect. The outer lip area is perfect. I tried this first on the one fender I will not be repairing and since it turned out so great I did the other one. i will try to get pics of it. I do not recall if I posted them in my build thread or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow great info thanks guys. The tool is my friends I borrowed it. I’m done I got bigger fish to fry. I disconnected the tool. Pulled my axle shafts out. Dropping diff tommorow installing a beefed up 3:55 posi 8 inch on old skool I like my drums and the lighter rear unit. So I opted not to do the 9” with rear discs.
 

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I just used various sizes of pipe and maybe a ball bat saving the paint wasn't really a priority for me ??
 

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If you take a heat gun and get the paint nice and warm, and then keep it warm, it keeps it more flexible and less likely to crack, just fyi for anybody else who might try.
 

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Wow great info thanks guys. The tool is my friends I borrowed it. I’m done I got bigger fish to fry. I disconnected the tool. Pulled my axle shafts out. Dropping diff tommorow installing a beefed up 3:55 posi 8 inch on old skool I like my drums and the lighter rear unit. So I opted not to do the 9” with rear discs.
I’m interested to know more about this “beefed up” 3.55 posi... what about it is beefed up? Where do you get it and what did it cost you? I’m interested because I too am planning to keep my 8in for a while...


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I’m interested to know more about this “beefed up” 3.55 posi... what about it is beefed up? Where do you get it and what did it cost you? I’m interested because I too am planning to keep my 8in for a while...


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In my case I used TJ on Ebay. TJ has passed away but his partner has promised the same great service
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Now I'm building a 66 coupe that has new quarters and outer wheel tubs. I did not weld the upper lip area that will be rolled. I will roll the lip then finish welding in my spot welds that are pre-drilled.
Nice planning! :) (y)
 

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So I played with my new Eastwood fender roller today along with many hammers and mallets on my problematic LR QP. I've got a 1/2" more rear fender well clearance on the passenger side that the drivers side, a condition my car shares with forum member @Rowdy and probably others. I don't think I accomplished a whole lot other than rounding the fender lip so the tire will rub and not slice the tire. I went to town with the roller watching the QP buckle from the pressure being applied and wasn't even able to stretch the lip a 1/16". I kind of hate the way I've mutulated my fender well on an original paint car but that's the way it goes. I'm currently running 225/45/17's on 8" rims with a 4.81" back space and need to get 315's on it. Okay, not 315's but at least 245/40/17's without raising the car up that is currently dropped 2"+ over stock. No way would I ever do this on a car with nice paint as the outer lip of the fender now ripples between each spot weld. On the bright side, the factory paint did not crack!

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If you want to roll your fenders or quarters and your replacing your quarters its best to do it before you put them on. If anyone is interested in doing so you can PM me and I can walk you threw it..It’s not hard and when your doing it you will see its really not hard..
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Your spot on on your procedure. I should have drilled out every spot weld before I attempted to roll the fender. Part of the horror of being lucky enough to have an original rust free car. Not really complaining.
 

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If you want to roll your fenders or quarters and your replacing your quarters its best to do it before you put them on. If anyone is interested in doing so you can PM me and I can walk you threw it..It’s not hard and when your doing it you will see its really not hard..
This is very timely as I'm about to weld in my new dynacorn wheels wells in the next few days, the same ones you pictured there. I was contemplating this same thing, should I roll them before welding? I hadn't decided until you posted this.

Did you have any complications aligning to the quarter panels?

I assume you rolled the quarter after the wheel wells were in place with rolled lips, then rolled the quarter lips, then welded the quarter to the wells?
 

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Nice work 66Ccode, I had to look twice at the photos. You used the clamped in rod on the wheelhouse, then clamped the same rod to the 1/4, nice consistent rolled mating of the two.
 

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I rolled the inner wheel well first using a aluminum rod by laying it on the radius and holding it there with a few vice grips. Rolling it far enough to just get the rod out and then finishing the roll with the rod out. Then I drilled the quarter where I was going to plug weld it to the inner. Then rolled it the same way I did the inner but not finishing the roll till I had the inner and the quarter completely welded in place. Then finished the roll using just a body hammer..Once the roll starts it folds fairly easy. I only have one area on the right side that’s going to need a little filler other than that it’s perfect. Yes it did take some time for sure but I am glad I did it..
 
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