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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided to jump off a bridge tomorrow. BUT FIRST I will be destroying my rear wheel fenders on my 63a.

My plan, I've seen plenty of vids online on how to roll the fenders, I will be using a Wooden bat, a rubber mallet, several hammers, a hydraulic jack, and jack stands.

The objective, I Will first jack the car up and put the stands in place, take off my rear wheels start to round out the inner fender lips on the rear with the mallet as a dampener, and the hammer that works best to do the striking. After I get both sides started I will be putting the tires back on, and supporting the frame with the stands, then use my jack to get a nice sweet spot and start going to town with the bat.

How I see it is that all the fender flaring tools do is provide a means to raise and lower the rolling surface, aswell as adjusting the angle at which pressure is exerted. I will be able to do the same with the bat but turning it against the wheel and fender, in a manner that it will roll itself in. I can alter the pressure by raising and lowering the rear axle of the car with the hydraulic jack. The angle at which I exert the pressure will be done by angling the bat.

My only concern is that My passenger side fender had a really crappy job done to patch up some holes by the PO. So when I roll the fenders its pretty much a death sentence, I will be rolling the outer fender, onto the inner wheel well lip where it is spot welded together. So when I decide to replace the fender, I will be very frustrated/sad/Irate/ and various other emotions that will challenge my moral.

But The way I see my bucket of a fastback, IS AS A PERFORMANCE CAR, IT WILL NEVER BE A PLUSH PONY. So in that sense, it will only add to its rugged menacing demeanor.

Reason why im doing this? The rear wheels are like 1/4" from touching the fender in its static position, so when the suspension is going threw its routine, it will most definitely rub the S*** out of my tires.

Any insight? Questions? Negative remarks?
 

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I used the "Fender Fixer" tool from Eastwood to roll my fronts. It was very easy, worked as advertised, and the car did not even have to be raised or the wheels removed. It took me about thirty minutes per side, as I was going very slowly and carefully so as not to crack the paint. They recommend using a heat gun, but my extreme patience and care kept the paint intact.
 

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I might suggest that you trim off some of the fender lip before you start rolling. Remove just the inside lip up to the spot welds but not more. You don't have to trim the entire wheel well just the top section where you might get tire contact when suspension bottoms. This is just excess anyway. Where in Ca. are you? I have a fender roller if you are near Visalia (central San Joaquin).
 

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have you seen the chicane tool? you can make one fairly easy and it works pretty good. i make one out of some pipe and a block welded on the end of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I might suggest that you trim off some of the fender lip before you start rolling. Remove just the inside lip up to the spot welds but not more. You don't have to trim the entire wheel well just the top section where you might get tire contact when suspension bottoms. This is just excess anyway. Where in Ca. are you? I have a fender roller if you are near Visalia (central San Joaquin).
Holy SHNIKES MAN! where in visalia are you? I live in visalia too what are the chances of that!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Maybe buy rims with the proper backspacing?
Torque thrust D's 15x7 for a mustang. How is buying a new set of rims and tires outway just rolling the fenders? I can buy an eastwood kit for 260, rebuying rims and tires would be around 12-14k for a nice set. Plus it would look better IMO. Back spacing would also be that "backspacing" as in the back side of the rim, or the side that faces the axle, **WHAT YOU MEANT WAS OFFSET BUD** Because my problem is on the outside not the inside, the inside would be backspace.
 

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Back spacing would also be that "backspacing" as in the back side of the rim, or the side that faces the axle, **WHAT YOU MEANT WAS OFFSET BUD** Because my problem is on the outside not the inside, the inside would be backspace.
JAFO is correct, you need more backspace on your rims. This will move your tires to the backside and give you more fender space. The more backspacing you have the more your center section is moved forward on the rim effectively moving your tires more to the rear. 1 new rim is the price you quoted on the eastwood kit right? So if you only needed 2 rims its not to much over 500 dollars right?

https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
JAFO is correct, you need more backspace on your rims. This will move your tires to the backside and give you more fender space. The more backspacing you have the more your center section is moved forward on the rim effectively moving your tires more to the rear. 1 new rim is the price you quoted on the eastwood kit right? So if you only needed 2 rims its not to much over 500 dollars right?

https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html[/quote


Subtract:
Wheel center line from Wheel backspace to get offset.
If backspace is less than the wheel centerline the offset is negative
If backspace is greater than the wheel centerline the offset is positive
Thats from your post, do you see where it says offset
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Again I have no problem the back spacing or the offset, the rims are absolutely fine, they work just well, as in no clearance issue do to the rims. I have 14x7 on my hard top that have a 15" lip ( which are using similar width and diameter tires), but needed 15 to clear the rear disks on my FB. So I will not be purchasing different offset rims, to make the fronts look different than the rears, as they would be of different "Offset".

Now if you all are dying to know the tires are big so they bulge out and the tread is actually wider than that of the rim, the clearance issue is on the outside do to how low the vehicle is. The smartest choice as far as price goes would be to raise the rear end of the vehicle to stock height to have suffice clearance. That would Actually be a good ASE question you know the technician A says and technician B says questions they have on the NATEF books. OR roll the fenders to get the awesome look I am wanting and going for.

uhh man, lol, what am I going to do with you guys. My auto instructor always stresses that people don't read, and I'm starting to understand why he says that.
 

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uhh man, lol, what am I going to do with you guys. My auto instructor always stresses that people don't read, and I'm starting to understand why he says that.
Well if you refering to me, I understand just fine at least about the backspace topic and seemed to be a valid suggestion that JAFo thru your way. Its very simple. When you order rims you specify backspace. If your tire is to close to the fender you order a higher number backspace which moves everything to the rear. If you need a quarter inch more space for your fender clearance you order a quarter inch more backspace although half inch increments are usually standard and quarter inch sometimes cost more because its a custom order.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Badcruz68 yeah it was valid in the sense if I had money to burn, but unfortunately I am currently going to college and only have money from financial aid, and wouldn't be able to make it through the semester if I were to purchase another set of rims. Again the rims are fine, They are specifically made for the mustang of that year, and most of us on this forum are running the same exact rims, with out any problems, I on the other hand am using lowering springs, and bigger tires hence the clearance issues. Thanks for the input, I understand your point, and have clarified that the offset or backspacing is not the issue.

I would like input on how to go about rolling my rear fenders, not input on rims and tires, thanks.
 

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Roll away then :) I run large tires as well, 275's out back which requires different backspacing than someone running say a 245 with the same rim for it to fit right. So yes, if you are running those tires then backspace IS an issue and would fix things although not a financial option for you. So I guess if you don't want to change your tires then enjoy the rolling process. Curling that little lip up in certain areas as CRUZZAR suggested might take care of the issue as well and you won't have to make a change to the car that you cannot undo.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Badcruz68, I am sorry If I had offended you in any way, and I'm glad we can agree to disagree :) . Now if Cruzzar would finish with his classes, he can point towards the process of cutting that excess piece, I want to know if this is absolutely necessary. Else I'd be pounding and rolling like crazy right now.
 

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Torque thrust D's 15x7 for a mustang. How is buying a new set of rims and tires outway just rolling the fenders? I can buy an eastwood kit for 260, rebuying rims and tires would be around 12-14k for a nice set. Plus it would look better IMO. Back spacing would also be that "backspacing" as in the back side of the rim, or the side that faces the axle, **WHAT YOU MEANT WAS OFFSET BUD** Because my problem is on the outside not the inside, the inside would be backspace.
Just curious here and couldn't help but wonder, but then maybe I don't read to well either. How would you go about changing the offset without changing the backset on the same width wheel.
 

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Lets not get all rowdy over nothing. I too plan on rolling my fenders in the near future, so please post back with tips, tricks and any other issues you run into.
 

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I can't believe people are suggestions buying tires instead of rolling the fender. :rolleyes:

I need to roll my front ones as well. I plan on replicating a copy of the eastwood for about $10 in steel and a skateboard wheel. :D
 
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