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Discussion Starter #1
I know there's a billion threads on rough idling, but I couldn't find the answer to my particular question.

Anyways, I recently added on A/C and P/S to my car. When I go to start it up now, it sounds very weak and eventually dies if I don't step on the gas. My question: is the addition of the 2 systems / belts putting more load on the engine, thus requiring more juice? To fix this, should I adjust the entire carb or should I just turn the idler screw a bit?

Once the car is under way, it runs fine and sounds fine. It idles okay once it's been driven for 5-10 minutes, but I haven't checked beyond 5min to see how long it idles before it dies again.
 

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When you start the engine from cold, you should push the accelerator pedal to the floor to set the choke and the fast-idle cam on the carb. After a few minutes you can blip the throttle and the fast-idle cam will release. These items need to be set by a tach or an experienced ear. You have not stated what the idle RPMs are set at, or do you know?

Doug
 

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"When you start the engine from cold, you should push the accelerator pedal to the floor to set the choke and the fast-idle cam on the carb."

BEFORE YOU TURN THE KEY!!!!!
 

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Assuming your choke is set up and operating correctly, it sounds like your fast idle cam screw may need adjusting to compensate for the increased load of the PS pump and ac compressor.

Jafo
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alrighty, sounds good. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn't need to adjust the rest of the carb too.

And yes, I do know how to start the car in cold weather :p Though really, it never needed much before I put in the A/C and P/S - I've cranked it no problem in 30-degree weather before :shrug:

Thanks for the help!
 

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(actually Slim Jr now)
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Just an added comment. Don't know for sure how the replacement/modern classic A/C compressor system works. The original factory compressor has a magnetic clutch. Until you turn on the A/C the clutch is a free wheeling pulley.
 
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