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It says "Iron 4 bolt block", so definitely not a reconditioned Windsor block. 427 Windsors almost always use an aftermarket block to allow for a 4.125 bore, which I don't think you can do in a stock block.
You can’t? Good to know, I always operated under the assumption that you could.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Cool so I spoke to the guy and got some details. Got one realllly bad picture but he says he's gonna speak to the original owner to ask about receipts and take more photos of serials... Sitting in a crate wrapped in plastic right now.

Engine is a 351W that's overbored. Claims its from Roush but I'm seeing cast iron and blue coloring? This doesn't look like any of the Roush pictures I've come across but don't know enough to take a stand.

Says about 5k miles on it. For 5k neg I get the long block with flywheel, balancer (it's externally balanced), and I-beam connecting rods.

Apologies in advance for terrible photo below but wanted to follow up with what I had so far. Hopefully way better photos to come in the next day or so.

Primary questions right now-- why's it blue? Should that be cast iron? Is that surface rust and is that no bueno?

Thank all for the support and guidance here

742336
 

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It says "Iron 4 bolt block", so definitely not a reconditioned Windsor block. 427 Windsors almost always use an aftermarket block to allow for a 4.125 bore, which I don't think you can do in a stock block.
Lots of people have made a 427w out of a stock 351w block. Most don't go that high in horsepower or cubic inches though and stop at 393/408/410ci due to the stroke, rpm and longevity reasons. An aftermarket block can definitely be used to get to 427ci or greater and can handle well over 600hp. A stock block at 427ci could give one issues north of 500-550hp.
 

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Cool so I spoke to the guy and got some details. Got one realllly bad picture but he says he's gonna speak to the original owner to ask about receipts and take more photos of serials... Sitting in a crate wrapped in plastic right now.

Engine is a 351W that's overbored. Claims its from Roush but I'm seeing cast iron and blue coloring? This doesn't look like any of the Roush pictures I've come across but don't know enough to take a stand.

Says about 5k miles on it. For 5k neg I get the long block with flywheel, balancer (it's externally balanced), and I-beam connecting rods.

Apologies in advance for terrible photo below but wanted to follow up with what I had so far. Hopefully way better photos to come in the next day or so.

Primary questions right now-- why's it blue? Should that be cast iron? Is that surface rust and is that no bueno?

Thank all for the support and guidance here

View attachment 742336
I'd definitely push for receipts, serial codes, etc. You can contact Roush directly and tell them your situation (maybe not the price) but ask for any telltales that its one of theirs and not a copycat.
 

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Okay that's a terrible photo. Without larger context, I'm just not sure what I'm looking at.

I think (and it's just a guess) I see a World Products Man O' War block. The WP blocks have that triangluar buttress with an extra hole between head studs. WP makes a cylinder head that can use those extra head studs. The intent is to hold down the head with forced induction and really high boost levels.

I'm not sure if Roush ever built engines using Dart or WP blocks. It would make more sense if Roush only uses Ford Performance blocks since they're in bed together. So if I'm right, that's sort of a red flag to me. WP blocks may actually be "better" than Ford Boss blocks, but I'd want to know who built the motor if it's not Roush. Having genuine Roush Yates D3 heads on an engine is NOT the same as a motor built by Roush.

The cylinder head (i guess?) with the "Roush" name in the casting does not seem to be in their current catalog. It may be an older product or as others have pointed out, it make be fake Chinesium copies. We just can't see enough to ID the head.

As others have suggested, I'd hold out for receipts and confirm the build by contacting whoever built the motor. If it's a really good engine builder with a good reputation, and it does have only 5K miles, then it's still a good deal.
 

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Man o War blocks are good for a 4.125 bore, the cylinders are extended 1/2" toward the crank to provide skirt support for strockers, and the block is clearanced for a stroker crank. According to them they are the only ones that provide a 6 head stud hole per cylinder block so I would agree. Cost is around $2500 or so for the block, 4 bolt main. You know I wonder if that was an old Nascar Roush/Yates motor that someone picked up and stroked, if it is stroked.
 

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That doesn't look anything like a D3 head:

Looks like a Roush version of the World Products head?

Which would make a Word Products block seem more logical. Are they Cast Iron or Aluminum heads ?
 

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Roush 200 heads came out 18 years ago. I don't know if they still are on the market. So maybe this isn't a $17K engine
 

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I'd ask for receipts for sure before buying. Those definitely look like cast iron heads to me. If that's the case, I'd pass on the motor. You can generally find 351w stroker motors around $5k-$6k brand new, or with a reman block, with all new components and aluminum heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Finally got some info back. You folks are awesome sleuths -- World Products block with cast iron Roush heads. 4 bolt billet steel main caps, I beam rods, steel crank. Couple way better photos with serial numbers and stamps.

Any sense of what market value is?

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743020
 

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Do they have any receipts/dyno sheet or anything? Looks like it's been sitting for a good deal of time. With the cast iron heads, I'd pass and get a motor with aluminum heads instead... especially for $5-6k or whatever price they're asking.
 

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Bare block is 2800 so putting it together adds up but those heads I think are 1500 new but there are way better heads out there now a days. I think those heads are choking that 427. So personally I would just want the short block. Just my opinion though. I think they are trying to get what its is worth in todays market. So I guess is it what you want and would work for you, budget and goal?


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If your interested it looks like you have a shortblock. pull some bearing caps and check some clearances, turn it over and check the bores, pull the heads and get some afrs. The one thing to think about is you have a bare motor so unless you already have timing gears, chain, cover, water pump, intake, carb, pulleys, oil pan and all that I would start comparing costs to a new crate engine
 

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If I were going in that direction, I would explore it, as the potential is there and knowing what I went through to get almost 400 RWHP from a 331 block. 5K, ? not a bad number, but, as always ....Do your "Due Diligence"!
 

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Any sense of what market value is?
As other have stated, I'd only want the block, crank, rods, and pistons assuming they're all in good condition. I'd also want a deal since they're used parts and you'll need a new cam, heads, etc.. So I wouldn't gamble more than about $800 provided the crank turns freely. It's just too much of a gamble to spend more money without a complete tear-down and inspection of the block. Who knows how much abuse this thing has taken?

For you application, I'd much rather be safe and have a new crate motor from a reliable, well-regarded builder. Just pick a 300 to 400 HP package with throttle body fuel injection. You'll be in for less than $7K and save money and headaches in the long run.

Good catch on the heads there @stephen_wilson! Those are so old I didn't recognize them. I lost all interest in cast iron heads too long ago to care.
 
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