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I love the question people ask: "Where are you from?"

My answer is always: "Texas. I just happen to live and work in Wisconsin" :grin2::grin2:

To that end, what happens to cars up here due to salt on the road hurts me on a deep, personal level. When we migrated North 2.5 years ago, I got my wife into a 2013 Escape. It is still mostly clean, but I am starting to see bubbles form on the door seams. I POR-15'd the k-member last year while doing an oil change, but this is all new to me.

I will likely take a wire wheel to the lower door seams, and then paint it with something tough..but here is the topic I'd like to hash with anyone willing:

What are you tricks and tips to increasing the "rust free" life of your cars?? /B]

Fire away.
 

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in salt country you get 4 years to decide if you want rust
the only option is not driving in it
If you must though wash often and don't put a car with salty sandy build up in a heated garage it will speed up the rust attack
 

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Somebody on here said in another thread they coated the underside of his truck with chainsaw bar & chain oil. He said it worked great and kept it rust free for years.

Sent from my LG-D631 using Tapatalk
 

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Unfortunately it is not just the "rust belt" anymore. Our roads in the mid-Atlantic are being treated with the "lines of death" every time the forecasters THINK we will get "weather" So now our car gets coated with salt based on a weatherman that is only right 10-15% of the time...

The worst part is that they mix it with beet juice in order for the coating to "stick" better...yea right to every nook and cranny on the underside of my car. There is no way to clean everywhere this crap reaches...ugh!:shrug: WE ARE SCREWED...
 

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1. Move away from it.

2. Drive your car in it.

3. Buy a winter beater.
 

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I apply Fluidfilm from an undercoating type gun to the entire underside of my daily drivers every fall. I use wands and hose attachments to get in every crevice I can. A nasty smelly greasy job to be sure but it keeps the car payments away! WaxWool is the other brand but I can buy Fluidfilm by the gallon at the local John Deere Dealer.

https://www.fluid-film.com

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Pro-Undercoating-Gun/dp/B0070WTGZG Application gun and attachments.
 

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Unfortunately it is not just the "rust belt" anymore. Our roads in the mid-Atlantic are being treated with the "lines of death" every time the forecasters THINK we will get "weather" So now our car gets coated with salt based on a weatherman that is only right 10-15% of the time...

The worst part is that they mix it with beet juice in order for the coating to "stick" better...yea right to every nook and cranny on the underside of my car. There is no way to clean everywhere this crap reaches...ugh!:shrug: WE ARE SCREWED...
That stuff is a total scam! If it does snow that crap makes for an instant sheet of ice instead of just a snow packed road. I'm not one for government conspiracies but the stupidity of that stuff is making me a believer.
 

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Yeah, I feel your pain. Many hours of work and lots of replacement parts later my '07 2500HD doesn't look like it's ready for the junkyard. I highly recommend that you treat it with something. Anything is better than nothing. I've heard stories of waste oil, gear oil, ATF etc. I have a friend that picked up a 2012 Dodge 3500 from down south and has been Fluid Filming it since the first fall he owned it. So far it looks excellent underneath. The stuff stinks for a couple days and is messy if you work on your vehicles, but it's worth the hassle and is a bit more enviro-friendly than the other options.
 

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I apply Fluidfilm from an undercoating type gun to the entire underside of my daily drivers every fall. I use wands and hose attachments to get in every crevice I can. A nasty smelly greasy job to be sure but it keeps the car payments away! WaxWool is the other brand but I can buy Fluidfilm by the gallon at the local John Deere Dealer.

https://www.fluid-film.com

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Pro-Undercoating-Gun/dp/B0070WTGZG Application gun and attachments.
This is my first year using Fluidfilm and Waxwool, let's hope it works, it is messy ! I finally had to unload my '89 Toyota pickup because I couldn't keep up with the rust damage :(
 

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I'm originally from NY. If you want a nice car every few years... leasing is incredibly popular up there.

Winter beaters are a real thing and very common, but not practical for your wife as she probably doesn't want/need 2 cars. I had a couple toyota trucks (11/12 yrs old at the time when I lived there.) They were rusty as hell, but I only paid $400 each for them and they ran good and its way more fun in the snow when you literally don't give a crap about what you're driving. When you throw in snow/ice, there's all sorts of creative and fun ways to wreck your car :shrug: (When I was 17 I literally slid down a 500' icy driveway into my uncle's car at a Christmas party, nothing like 30 seconds of slow motion "nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo" - moving the steering wheel did nothing.)

Just wire wheeling and painting the lower door seams on the outside will only last a few months, the rust is starting from inside the door along the bottom seam, that needs to be coated as well. Ironically, the first vehicle I ever bought when I moved to SC came from Indianapolis (Carmax), it had bubbles on the door bottoms. I fought that crap for 11 years, usually every spring I scraped out and recoated it. Finally, the DS rocker bubbled and popped through when it was 16 years old and it was time to let it go, it had 185K by then and after 11 years it was time for a new DD anyway.

You would have to quadruple my pay, give me a free house with a 10 car garage, and I would still have to really think about putting up with living there again (left 20 years ago this fall).
 

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Yeah, my Chevy truck has the typical door rust bubbles. I'm going to strip and paint (MS silver) the visible rust, then spray Fluidfilm inside the door to try and stop further rust.
 

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About a year and a half ago I sold my '01 F150, I bought it brand new and loved that truck. It had 185k on it and still ran great. However, the frame was shot! I bought a brand new '17 F150, aluminum body, so I don't have to worry about body rust (I know, I know, aluminum "corrodes"). I too sprayed the frame and any other metal underneath with Fluidfilm, we'll see how it holds up. Cars/truck are much better prepped from the factory for rust prevention these days. We have an '07 Corolla we bought new and did no rust preventatives. There is a little bit starting on the bottom door edges, which I don't think is bad for 12 years.
 

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A buddy of mine from Green Bay told Brown County switched to beet juice several years ago. At first I thought he was nuts, than he showed me a picture of a similar sign about beet juice.



Out by me in northern Illinois they use a lot of sand on the rural roads to prevent salt poisoning of farm fields.
 

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I bought a John Deere tractor and requested that fluid be put in the rear tires.. a couple years later I was working at a buddies house with my tractor. My buddy came running toward the tractor waving his hands for me to stop. The valve stem had loosened and when I looked at the yellow rim with purple fluid running all over it , it took me a few seconds for me to remember that the dealer said they had put beet juice in the tires because it would not freeze.
 

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I spray my undercarriage with Krown every year. Seems to help a lot with the surface rust that normally forms. Got two new vehicles for my business and prayed one but not the other. After two years the difference was night and day.
 
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