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1969 Mach 1 Restomod
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Just for perspective, the drip rails are welded to the roof structure. The roof is then laid over the whole thing and spot welded into place. Sealer is then applied.
I could only find one picture of when I did mine.
Removing the roof is a big job, but not out of reach if you take your time. Lots of spot welds.
Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

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Short term fix....use a wire wheel to get rid of the seam sealer. Treat with POR15. Then seam seal and spray paint to match as close as possible. If the car is kept in a dry place, that would probably buy you at least 5 years plus before it rusted through and you had to worry about leaks.

Long term fix...keep an eye out for a fastback roof and do a fastback conversion a few years from now. If you're gonna do all the work to replace the roof, may as well go all the way and do the conversion. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Short term fix....use a wire wheel to get rid of the seam sealer. Treat with POR15. Then seam seal and spray paint to match as close as possible. If the car is kept in a dry place, that would probably buy you at least 5 years plus before it rusted through and you had to worry about leaks.

Long term fix...keep an eye out for a fastback roof and do a fastback conversion a few years from now. If you're gonna do all the work to replace the roof, may as well go all the way and do the conversion. :)
No fastback conversion since mine is a californa special model. I like coupes
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Just for perspective, the drip rails are welded to the roof structure. The roof is then laid over the whole thing and spot welded into place. Sealer is then applied.
I could only find one picture of when I did mine.
Removing the roof is a big job, but not out of reach if you take your time. Lots of spot welds. View attachment 879662
I am not really a body guy. So I don’t do any welding or patching. Nor do I have the tools to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
What has cracked is the seam sealer underneath, allowing water to get between it and the metal. The rust swelled the area and caused more cracking. The sealer should all be removed before attempting to treat any rust.
Does the roof skin need to be off to get the sealer? And also I really do appreciate the help from everybody, but as stated in one of my posts I can’t do body work and don’t have tools too.
 

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Does the roof skin need to be off to get the sealer? And also I really do appreciate the help from everybody, but as stated in one of my posts I can’t do body work and don’t have tools too.
There are some temporary fixes here the will get you down the road. When it comes time to move the car along to someone else it’s going to take a divot out of the price if it’s not fixed on what otherwise looks like a clean car. (y) You can drive and enjoy the car now just know what you’re up against.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There are some temporary fixes here the will get you down the road. When it comes time to move the car along to someone else it’s going to take a divot out of the price if it’s not fixed on what otherwise looks like a clean car. (y) You can drive and enjoy the car now just know what you’re up against.
What a way to look at it. It is a shame since this car is straight And so good body wise.
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Does the roof skin need to be off to get the sealer? And also I really do appreciate the help from everybody, but as stated in one of my posts I can’t do body work and don’t have tools too.
No. The sealer was applied just prior to paint application to seal the seam between the gutters and the roof. Once you've removed the stainless trim, you can use a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder down in the gutter channel to remove the sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
No. The sealer was applied just prior to paint application to seal the seam between the gutters and the roof. Once you've removed the stainless trim, you can use a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder down in the gutter channel to remove the sealer.
Ok I see. I went and looked yesterday on proper light. It’s not as bad as I remembered. Most of the rust seems to be on the front pillars. But the top is also still an issue. Thank you for the help and also helping me understand. Gonna have to gain some courage if I want to do this but I will try!
 

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Almost every Mustang I've ever had eventually did this.
I have done the seam seal removal, rust elimination, metal fill and smooth, prime and paint repair with great success without having to de-skin the top.
Be optimistic, but be THOROUGH.
 
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