Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so i bought this 71 fastback mustang about 2 months ago for 800 have gotten everything out of it and now get a better idea of the rust thats is under everything i have looked at panels and all but i cant seem to find certain pieces. this is the first time iv every tried any kind of body work like this. i have welded in the past but nothing like this again. thanks for all help in advance

1. i need my cowl is rusted out on both vents and both sides




2. I am also concerned about the trunk area and how to fix this it rusted where the lid closes to (when i bought it trunk lock was frozen shut so couldnt look inside)



3. on both sides where the door hinge goes there is a line where a hole has rusted through this seems to be popular from what i can see. im guessing all i could do is weld a small sheet in that area


4. on the other side of the door on the drivers side in particular there is a hole that has rusted through again i was wondering how i should tend to this


5. also i dont have pictures of this but i can get some the bottoms of the doors have rusted through not on the outer skin but on the frame itself. how would i fix that

6. the rails on top of the engine bay that the fender mount to some of the holes have rusted out of those as well and iv seen people buy whole panels just to fix such a small spot is there an easier way??



7. I was also looking at the quarter panels and many places sell quarter panels and quarter panel skins what does the quarter panel have that the skin does not and for this damage will the skin work..




8. other questions i have would be what kind of paint should i use ( primer
rust preventer so on...)?

9. last question i was planning on going back to original almost everything i was going to put a 351 Cleveland in it but do still have the 302 should i put the 351 and since all of the repairs that i need to make anyways i was wondering if i should stay original or convert it to a boss or mach 1 body style with the 351
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
Wow, I hope you have allot of time and money to burn. If I were you I would have someone with more experience take a look at that thing in person, because you may have a car that's not worth rebuilding. I'll bet there's allot more rust than you think or can see with it still having paint on it. You will no doubt have to buy both full quarters and probably both doors. The quarter skins may work for the lower rust repairs, but a complete quarter will have the channel where the trunk closes that you showed as being rotted. that would be the proper way to go.

I would seriously have another set of eyes on it before tearing to much further into incase it's not worth restoring.

Just my $.02

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Well your fastback is going to require a lot of welding to get it back in shape. I'm currently doing a lot of rust repair on a coupe. If you plan to do the work yourself you're going to need a good mig welder with gas. Next after you get your welding basics down, I would get the car leveled up on jackstands in your work area, and strip car down to shell. Next you should probably get all the frame measurements so if and when you start replacing metal it will be in the right place and all squared up. On my coupe I removed doors and welded temporary bracing across door openings so nothing moves when replacing floors, cowl, etc. I'm actually replacing the complete roof on mine. Also support bottom of car in six to eight areas to prevent sag.
Next, I would fix/replace bad frame sections, floor, doorpost jams, cowl, and other main support areas, and then work to exterior sheetmetal.
One good thing about these cars is that every piece for them is available. Don't fool yourself, you have a tremendous amount of work in front of you if you choose to do it yourself, so be sure this is what you really want to do. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks both of you vero i have looked quite a few places for things such as the cowl and the full quarter panel for this car i can only find the skins and no cowls i have noticed many people haveing the problem with not being able to find the cowls
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
junk it! you will have more in it than it is worth. i am working on a 71 mach1 now. the owner says he is at 20k in it now. no full qrt. or doors are are out there. all parts have been junk,every bad fit on qrt. skin, his was not has bad as your pics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,952 Posts
You don't have were you are located, but I am assuming it isn't in the desert because of the rust issues.
You may have to buy used parts, which shipping will kill you on for stuff like quarters. Unless you fancy a road trip with a trailer or pickup.

Seriously, take it from someone who knows, some cars just aren't worth saving.

Russ
 

·
I won a special award
Joined
·
7,410 Posts
You'd be better off junking that car and starting with another one. 71-73 Mustangs have the fewest parts reproduced of the vintage Mustangs. There are many body parts and panels you need that are not reproduced. So you'd have to find a donor car. You'd be better off financially with another car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Well, my car is a 1967, and I bought a new upper and lower cowl for it. I'm fairly certain that are available for your year also. Try NPD, and there are plenty others with parts. The cowl has the exterior (upper) part, and a lower section. To tremove it you'll have to remove windshield, hood, fenders, etc, and then drill out several hundred spot welds around cowl perimeter that hold it all together. Once upper cowl is removed, you'll see the lower cowl, and how water gets into your car.
If I could offer you some real good advice, I think you should get yourself some paper and pencil, then go around car and note every part that will need replaced. Be honest with yourself and include everything you can possibly think of. Quarters, floors, fenders, seats, glass, paint, tires, engine rebuild, everything. Now look up some suppliers and get prices on these parts plus any labor you may have to farm out. Add all this up, and be sure this is a worthwhile project. Most of us never get back what we put into our classics, but you want to be sure you're not overwhelmingly overinvested in it, not to mention the hundreds of hours you'll have in it. If it looks like you'll be ok with it, then choose one section to repair at a time, and concentrate on it. Then keep moving on to next item.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Just checked NPD website and didn't see any cowl parts for your year mustang. As Maxum96 stated, you may have to get salvage yard parts to get your car in shape, so really think this out good before diving into it. It could turn into a real money pit, and take forever to accomplish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
If you want to practice it might be a good car to play with but as others have said do yourself a financial favor and get another. I dont want to discourage you, but much more experienced people have failed with much better starts. I can only see the rear frame rail in one pic and strangely it doesnt look horrible... but check out the bottom structurally... I had a 69 FB that I really wanted to build and it was about 6k in metal alone no labor before I even hit the body... not worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Devanb3 - I would have to agree with the others about this car. Go find another one just like it and use the rusty one as your parts car. Mine has some rust issues, but nothing this bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,320 Posts
You will burn through $800 repairing a section or two. Cut your losses and chalk it up as an $800 lesson. Hopefully there are other usable parts that you can use/sell and you can find a better starting point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I have to agree with the others. Have someone else look at it but from the sound of it, you have never done this before, and you'll be in over you're head quickly. Not a good way for you to start. You won't believe how much more rust you will find once you start digging in. Unless you have a rare option car or big block, and even then, move on. As was stated, keep it as a parts car and find another one to restore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I have to agree with the others that say that this is not worth it. I'm restoring a 73 that had minimal rust (floors, one lower quarter, a little in the trunk, battery tray/apron, etc.). This is my first resto and I'm using it partially as a learning experience before I go on to two other projects I have that are worth much more money. I'm watching what I spend on this car very carefully so I don't end up with more that $12-14K in it, which is probably a best case scenario for resale. At least when the economy comes back.

That said, no way would I attempt to restore your car at my skill level, which I'm assuming from your post is about the same as yours. I'm learning a lot, and a couple things I'm learning is that there are not NEAR as many repro parts for the 71-73's as there are for the earlier models. I was actually pretty shocked. Some of that metal you may have to get from a parts car or fab it yourself. I've fabbed a couple of small patches that came out OK but unless you're an experienced metal worker, you'll have a tough time with some of the patches you'll need on that car.

Another thing you'd really need to do with a car that rusty is have it media blasted. Believe me when I say that no matter how much rust you see, there will be more when it's stripped. Just the blasting (unless you can do it yourself) will probably cost $800-1200. Then there may not be enough left to restore. A lot of the metal that's currently looks OK under the paint may not be rusted through, but it will be thin and either get blown away by the blaster, or will just need to be replaced because it's so thin and pitted.

71-73's are cheap. If you're one of us oddballs that really like that style, go find yourself a better car to start with. You can probably get most of your $800 back by selling a few of the parts you pulled off that one, or by using some of them on another car. Maybe you can even find one with the Cleveland already in it (I did) so you don't have to go hunting for another engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,881 Posts
Unfortunately it looks like the "keep" pile of parts will probably end up being way smaller than the "junk" pile. Not to say that it's not doable, but if there is no sentimental value to this particular car it might be better to just walk away. Keep anything that might be salvagable, and look for a better start to a project. I had another coupe before this one that I was going to do (this is my first project as well), that was in about the same shape. I pulled the motor and tranny from it to have as back ups, and anything else that was re-usable (not a lot at all), and found a better car for the project. It's a hard lesson, and believe me I understand it sucks, but this may not be in your best interest to pursue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
Have to agree with the rest. I tackle a lot of stuff most people wouldn't, but that ones too far gone for me. Depending on where you are, should be able to find another body in better shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
You'd be better off junking that car and starting with another one. 71-73 Mustangs have the fewest parts reproduced of the vintage Mustangs. There are many body parts and panels you need that are not reproduced. So you'd have to find a donor car. You'd be better off financially with another car.
Amen, brother. You are starting with basically a lot of rusty metal and a title. Cut your losses and get another car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Oh man... I'd never tackle that. I think you could buy a nice Shelby for the money you'd need to pump into that to get it going.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
thanks everyone last question does anyone know anyone in or around wilmington nc that has a mustang for sale (or other muscle car) for relatively cheap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
thanks everyone last question does anyone know anyone in or around wilmington nc that has a mustang for sale (or other muscle car) for relatively cheap
Check out craigslist ads and local newspapers in and around your area. You can check Ebay also, but I find that cars usually cost more there, probably because of a larger audience. You could most likely put your '71 on there and get your money back though. Just my opinion.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top