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Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon all,
When it comes to most things I can make my way through and do a pretty decent job of figuring things out, grew up on farm, working on stuff a lot. However when it comes to body work I'm a newbie. I picked up this '67 convertible for a steal, however it needs some TLC. At some point the previous owner replaced both rear quarters, reason unknown, with generic '67/'68 quarters (does not have '67 vents on the sides) On both the drivers and pass side, they are rusted out where they meet the door jamb. My question is, is this repairable w/o completely replacing both quarters? Could a patch section be cut out of a correct '67 quarter to fix the corners and have correct vents, or would it be better to simply do the whole quarters, and door pillar on the pass side. (Pics attached)
Also under the hood on both sides where the fenders mate up there are some rust spots. The engine bay is in good shape except for the pictured sections. Again could these be cut out and patched easily or should entire panel be replaced.

Thanks for looking guys. In my short time here I have found that there are many knowledgeable people with very helpful recommendations and answers!
driv door.jpg pas door.jpg pas fend.jpg drv fend.jpg
 

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You'll have to cut that back until you get to 100% clean solid metal and come back from there...that isn't just some surface rust that started recently. That's a sign somebody used body filler in a place that's crucial to any car, but especially a convertible's , structural integrity. I would recommend your fenders come off also so you can what other kinds of shenanigans are in play with those inner fenders...
 

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Ouch! Which side of the steal were you on again?

You're going to have to start digging in and looking. Start with a screwdriver or putty knife and see what comes off by hand like a sardine can. Poke or beat around for other soft spots and Bondo craters. You can expect to cut another couple inches at least after that. It might just be some overlaps they didnt treat well or left as water traps.
My feeling is that any part can be patched in, especially so if you can find a parts car to cut the same pieces out of, add some smart reinforcements then treat and seal it all afterwards.
I think I would plan on adding convertible inner rockers, they help rigidity in any car.
 

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1968 coupe, 1968 vert, 1966 coupe
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I was hoping to do the same thing just patch them and when I started cutting I didn’t like what I saw I pulled the whole quarter off and underneath the “Skelton” was in good shape but has a lot of surface rust and garbage inside cleaned it all out sprayed epoxy and it’s gonna last another hundred years under the new quarter panel! That’s what I would recommend!
 

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The only way to get an idea of how serious the rust is, is to remove the interior panels and look from the inside. Expect it to be a much bigger repair than you think. Rust seems to ALWAYS surprise in a bad way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice guys, I will be starting to "dig" a little this weekend. Will also definitely take a look from the inside as well, as recommended. It does appear that at some point they did weld on the inner rocker panel supports, as was recommended by 1ofAMillion., just not sure if that was before or after the cracking began. I does appear that most of it was due to not getting everything sealed up correctly. The repaint on it was half @$$ed at best, so I am guessing the rest of the body work was on par with the paint... This thing has been sitting untouched in a ladies shed since 1999 so the rust bunnies have had plenty of time to feed. Really hoping I didn't get myself into a money pit!
 

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On a normal Mustang you can see the lip on the quarter panel where it wraps around the door jam and is spot welded to the jam. I don't see the edge of the quarter panel lip on your car. It appears that somebody added a lot of bondo to the jam to make that lip blend in. Maybe they did that while they were bondoing up the rust in the quarter panel. Maybe they also bondoed up the quarter panels where the fake vents were. If you remove the interior side panels you will quickly see what all was bondoed up.
 

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"Really hoping I didn't get myself into a money pit! " Dude, You're already way in on that car.. I can tell you right here, right now, That if you're not willing to blow the entire car apart....CUT YOUR LOSSES RIGHT NOW!!! and sell the thing as-is. That car has definitely got some deep seeded nasty rust. Basically, it's a "Lipstick on a Pig" previous resto job...

If you do choose to keep the car and blow it apart, All I can say is...

 
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LOL, boy thanks for the words of encouragement!🤣
I don't think many of us get any satisfaction in telling somebody that they are in the "way deep". IMHO, describing your purchase as a "steal" would only have validity if you are quite sure you could sell off the component parts and make a profit. From the limited photos you supplied if somebody brought your car into my shop and asked to have it restored I'd vehemently try to talk them out of it and suggest they cut their losses now and look for a better car. Unless you're a "jack of all trades" that can weld, do body work (well), mechanical, etc. and really just have to deal with the expenditure in parts you're still going to have more tied up in that car when it's driveable than what it will be worth, in the end. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, Woodchuck nothing to be sorry about at all, I appreciate the honesty. I admit that the door jamb/ quarter sections were worse than expected, but such is life. I could have paid 20+K for a "moderately restored" convertible (didn't want a coupe), or the 7k I did for this one. (figured that would leave room in the budget to make it mine, not someone else's vision) Yes I kinda am a jack of all trades, dad was a mechanic and I grew up working with my hands, and will be doing all work myself, with the exception of if it turns out both rear quarters need to be totally replaced, and of course body and paint, but that was gonna happen regardless of what I picked up. Trunk is solid, small section of rot on drivers side toe/fire wall section which I can handle, and then the spots on the inner fenders pictured. Not looking for a show car at all or even a full resto, just want to get it to a weekend driver status and go from there. Will also be rebuilding entire front and rear suspension. So yeah, not afraid to get in and work.
My "Money pit" comment may have been a little extreme lol. I'm dual income, no kids...what else do got to spend my $ on!!!
Maybe I"m crazy...
 

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Thanks, Woodchuck nothing to be sorry about at all, I appreciate the honesty. I admit that the door jamb/ quarter sections were worse than expected, but such is life. I could have paid 20+K for a "moderately restored" convertible (didn't want a coupe), or the 7k I did for this one. (figured that would leave room in the budget to make it mine, not someone else's vision) Yes I kinda am a jack of all trades, dad was a mechanic and I grew up working with my hands, and will be doing all work myself, with the exception of if it turns out both rear quarters need to be totally replaced, and of course body and paint, but that was gonna happen regardless of what I picked up. Trunk is solid, small section of rot on drivers side toe/fire wall section which I can handle, and then the spots on the inner fenders pictured. Not looking for a show car at all or even a full resto, just want to get it to a weekend driver status and go from there. Will also be rebuilding entire front and rear suspension. So yeah, not afraid to get in and work.
My "Money pit" comment may have been a little extreme lol. I'm dual income, no kids...what else do got to spend my $ on!!!
Maybe I"m crazy...
I think most of us are "crazy" to some degree or another. So, make your plan, build a chassis jig to keep everything in proper alignment, measure twice and cut once.
 

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As has been pointed out, anything can be repaired and as long as you understand the situation then I say full speed ahead.

What most of us that have been in this game for 20-30-40 years try to get across, is just how expensive these types of situations can be.

I can do most of the work that car needs, but I’m no painter. I have painted a couple of cars and discovered that I spend 3 times as much time and get a result that is half as good as a pro.

So, from what I can see, even doing most of the work myself, I would estimate 15-25k being spent on that car. Depending on the condition of the interior, drivetrain, suspension and brakes (all of which I can do).

mid you can’t cut out and weld in most of that sheet metal, add another 10k.
 

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I repaired a 68 convertible in similar condition. I replaced basically every panel on the car with exception to the hood and one fender. The hardest part is replacing the inner subframe which is probably in bad shape on your car. You'll find it directly below the door and behind the outer rocker panel. It is about a 4 inch boxed beam of 14 gauge metal that joins the front and rear subframes. On my 68 I replaced the inner subframe, torque boxes, floor pans, doors, quarter panels, outer wheelhousings, trunk dropoffs, the trunk, one fender and I had to fabricate new rain gutters and the area around the bottom of the quarter where it attaches to the door opening. Anyways I don't regret it - it was time spent working with my father who has passed now. Just want you to understand what you are getting in to.

david
 

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1965 6 cylinder convertible, 1966 6 cylinder convertible
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Tanker,
Good luck on your adventure, like you said in an earlier post, you could buy a restored one or half assed restored one for twenty something K. Depending on your abilities, and age, you can restore this and in the end, you will know what has been. So jump all in, enjoy, and do it right the first time. It is almost always better/cheaper to buy one already done, but it is fun and rewarding to do one yourself. Anyway good luck and post pictures of your baby as work is being done.
 
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