Sounds like a real personal problem. Are you sure you're in the right forum?
Okay try the good ol' Liquid Wrench. Let it penetrate a while then tap it a few times to lossen things (hopefully). A little heat could help too but not right after the LW a fire would be much worse than any frozen bolts.
I always found that giving them a liberal spray of penetrating oil and, if that hasn't loosened them up, use a breaker bar and a 6 pt. socket and give it a couple of shots w/ a hammer... If by then a bolt hasn't come off for me I get mad and break out the Dremel tool or the nut cracker... Bye bye bolt!
'72 Mach 1 || '90 Talon TSi AWD
"Thats not a leak, my car's marking its territory!"
"If you've done it, it ain't braggin'." -Roy Rogers
http://my67heven.tripod.com/emsm.gifI was looking for a restoration of fantasy. I do not want my car to be as it was in 1967. I want it to be as I imagined it in 1967. -John Baird Got Rust? 1967 A-Code Coupe
The Navy here in San Diego uses generic "oil of wintergreen" (available at your local pharmacy) as a penetrant on bolts and nuts that are corroded by sea water. Try it. I have, and it really works. Give it time to soak thru and use multiple applications. Then the tap, tap, tap method really helps. A lot of taps works better than a few bangs. Good Luck.
65 Conv., 65 & 66 Coupes and the remains of
a 66' Coupe with 6 cyl. engine and V-8 3 spd.