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Anybody here ever try it? Someone told me acrylic enamel is acrylic enamel, don't matter what the brand.

I read online tht hot rod magazine did a flat black paint job with the rustoleum flat black. The car looked awesome. Plus for the price of the gallon?! You can't go wrong!

Anybody?

1967 Chevy Camaro - Affordably Flat Paiting - Hot Rod Magazine
 

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Haven't tried it but if you are looking for an interim step to improve the look of your car but can't afford a complete paint job and your car is in primer, I would consider spraying the car with black SPI epoxy which will give the same effect. It has UV inhibitors so will stand up to the sun for a while and won't have to be stripped off to continue body and paint work. I guess if you are spraying over an existing paint job that has to be stripped later that isn't an issue.

Depending on where you are in the body work/paint process, with epoxy you are arguably taking a step forward. With enamel you are taking two steps back.
 

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A couple of months back there was a thread from some one who had used Rustoleum to paint their car. You may want to do a thread search. I'm pretty sure there were pictures and everything.
 

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There is a red one on the forum that was done with rust oleum and it was a nice 5-foot paint job. Before mine was painted I experimented with it. I tried rolling it with foam rollers (lots of Internet threads about this) and spraying with HVLP. I learned enough to say that if you are a very patient person (which I am not) you can roll the paint on. I found a cheap HVLP to be sufficient to spray some thinned Enamel and it looks just fine.

My experiments were documented, but there is other work mixed in, so you'll have to sift through the thread, but it starts here:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/classic-mustangs/207806-65-coupe-351w-4.html#post3769925
 

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I did a rustoleum paint job with the can before. It came out pretty good for being cans, but my main use was just to protect it until I got my paint job, and to get rid of the flat green color. I got the flat black rustoleum, but I switched to plasti dip matte black just because this black is what I'm looking for. Only temporary, but just until I'm ready to paint. At least with these can jobs if someone scratches your car, you can repair it within minutes. LoL
 

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I like TommyK's idea. Just shoot it with black epoxy primer. That stuff has a semigloss finish that would probably look better than Rustoleum enamel. And it offers outstanding protection against the elements. When you're ready for paint, you need only lightly sand the epoxy primer.

I find it interesting that paint jobs are now so expensive, many car enthusiasts are simply not doing it. Maybe this will help to bring down the cost of a paint job.
 

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I painted one of my mavericks using tractor supply enamel and it came out just acceptable but need fish eye eliminator added to be ok. I still have enough left to respray which I plan on doing come fall. It took about 3 days before the finish wasn't tacky???. Send me a pm with your email and I will forward a couple of pics. wes
 

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It took about 3 days before the finish wasn't tacky??
Likely because you did not buy the catalyst to add to it. It hardens it fairly quickly. I used the same implement paint on a trailer of mine and it is some pretty resilient stuff!
 

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I've done many a Rustoleum paint job...not aerosol, but using quarts or gallons. Use ordinary enamel reducer for thinning and cleanup, add a couple drops of fisheye eliminator and, by all means, add hardener for acrylic enamel, either some stuff from the local body and paint store, or use Rustoleum's own 206201 Acrylic Hardener.

It's ALWAYS a good idea to use a respirator when spraying paint, and acrylic hardeners don't contain isocyanates so a cheap Home Depot respirator will suffice, especially if the "booth" has good ventilation.
 

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I like TommyK's idea. Just shoot it with black epoxy primer. That stuff has a semigloss finish that would probably look better than Rustoleum enamel. And it offers outstanding protection against the elements. When you're ready for paint, you need only lightly sand the epoxy primer.

I find it interesting that paint jobs are now so expensive, many car enthusiasts are simply not doing it. Maybe this will help to bring down the cost of a paint job.
My take on it is.....if it's a real deal classic per say a 65 fastback 4-speed or a code that is highly sought after, then ya, get the 10k paint job because of the value they hold. I have a C-code coupe. Paying that kind of money for a paint job that will only satisfy me and not bring hardly any added value to a coupe.... DIY single stage baby! Plus I DRIVE IT and don't worry about imperfections due to road gravel, etc. If it gets damaged, I redo it. Simple as that.

If I had a 10k paint job, I wouldn't want to take it out of the garage.

Go get a HF HVLP turbine and have fun. Mess it up? Redo it!
 

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Back in the 70s, I bought a 65 Coupe for $50. Ran well. but the paint was shot. I got a couple of cases of acrylic enamel rattle cans and had at it. The paint was dull until I started buffing it out then it looked like the paint had depth. I probably put too much paint on it but after a couple of weeks buffing and compounding the car looking really good. I didn't prime it, I just sanded the original paint and started spaying.

Then there was a guy across the street from us who masked off this 66 Tempest. didn't know what he was up to. He proceeded to paint his car with brushes. We were laughing about it until he buffed it out with a machine. The it looked good.
 

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I had a friend paint a school bus with rustoleum and rollers. Turned out pretty darn good.
 

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So why is auto paint so expensive compared to Rustoleum? Is it the EPA, paint manufactured think they've cornered the market on auto paint?
 

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So why is auto paint so expensive compared to Rustoleum? Is it the EPA, paint manufactured think they've cornered the market on auto paint?
No its because auto manf decide how long repairs should take mechanical or bodywise..so insurance makes up what they want to pay and then paint/chemical plants decide what they can leverage...I'm in the same kind of business where we deal with printing ink ..it has to be done locally so you can charge what is best for both or overcharge if your the closest suppler...I checked with a local autobody supply and, its $270 for supplies to paint my miata
 
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