I've decided there is a conspiracy to keep me from getting shop time. However, I've still managed to sneak away and make a little progress.
Finally started to reassemble some of the front end in hopes of getting it back to roller status soon.
Special thanks to John at Opentracker for getting me headed in the right direction. He answered my email quickly and with lots of great advice. I wasn't sure on doing the Shelby/Arning Drop on a big block car, but he highly recommended it as well as giving me an idea on the springs I will need for the stance and ride I'm looking for.
Steering assembly is almost back on, getting ready to drill the holes for the Shelby drop (as soon as my brother brings me a 17/32 bit) and also starting to mock up the disc brakes. The car was originally four wheel manual drums.
Also picked up a 1" sway bar at Pate's last weekend. It is for a small block but I had planned on doing a remote oil filter anyway so I figured I would go ahead and get it. Now I'm having second thoughts on using a remote filter and can't decide if I need to get a big block sway bar and use the factory filter location or go with my original plan.
After two weeks of an internal struggle trying to decide what to regarding the small block sway bar and remote oil filter setup I decided to go ahead and dive in. Finished the Shelby drop and got the UCA's mounted, LCA's mounted, spindles and tie rods. All was going well.
Tried to mount the sway bar and realized it hits the LCA brackets on both sides with any upward motion. It looks to me like I ended up with a 65-66 sway bar instead of a 67-68 small block bar. I can't find any definitive info in the forums, but the mounting holes are about 37 1/2" apart. I'll have to dig my old bar out tomorrow and measure it to compare.
Small set-back and lesson learned.
Anyone need what is probably a 65-66 1" sway bar? Anyone know how to tell for sure what it fits?
Measurements prove that this was a sway bar for a 64 1/4 - 66. Sold it this morning. The correct big block bar from Opentracker should be showing up today followed soon by their 1" performance drop springs for the front. Passenger side full length floor pan showed up yesterday. Looks like I have a little work to do.
Been a few months with no updates. Still working slowly. It's back up on jackstands and setting level. I've replaced the rear section of the driver's side rear frame rail, the rear trunk support and am working on the trunk floors.
The rear axle has also been removed in order to clean it up and replace all the brake components.
The brake backing plates were P/N 70866 and 70867 which are for 1.75" but the car actually had 2" shoes installed. Ordered all new springs, shoes, drums, etc. Should be good to go once all the pieces arrive and I get around to installing them.
Starting work on the rusted section of the rear frame rail. As near as I could tell, most vendors sold the same brand repair section. This one was a "Goodmark" from Rockauto. Overall it was a good fit and required very little metal work. The thickness was the same as the factory rail. I did have to drill holes for the exhaust hanger and scavenge the spacer from the rusted out factory rail, but other than that all the holes were the correct size and placement. I figured there would never be an easier time to do this repair than while the trunk floor and axle were out of the car.
Last picture shows the first stage of welding this piece in. Spot welds on both sides and the bottom, then a solid bead around the edges inside and out. If the the rusted section was still holding then this should too..... I hope.
I've been bouncing from section to section on this car over the past week or two, depending on what part shows up and when.
The passenger side floor pan has been welded in. I used the same technique that I used on the driver's side. Secure the pan over the existing opening using self tapping screws, cut along the edge of the new pan with and air-saw and tack weld every couple of inches removing the screws as you go. When you make it to the end the old rusted section falls on the ground and you have the new pan tacked in with a gap the width of the saw blade and ready for a butt weld.(stole that idea from someone on the forum, I'd give them credit if I could find the post)
Getting the rear axle cleaned, painted and reassembled is taking longer than expected. Taking the shafts to the machine shop today to get new bearings pressed on. Still trying to figure out the backing plate and bearing retainer gasket set up. From reading the forums it looks like the gaskets are mainly to keep brake dust out of the axle housing and to also help dampen sound and vibrations to/from the brakes. Did get the diff painted and put back on with a new gasket. New axle seals installed and new center brake line.
Keeping the local machine shop busy. Just got drums turned and axle bearings pressed on. Rear axle is back together, painted and brakes installed. (forgot how much I hate drum brakes) I'm going to put it back on the leaf springs that it had for now. I'm not sure if they are stock or not, but the plan is replace them eventually but get it back to rolling status for now.
Thanks to everyone that helped me out (in another thread) on brake drum size and ID.
Worked on a couple of different projects over the last couple of days. A while back I ordered the roller spring perch kit from Dazecars.com. I spent a couple of hours converting my original worn out FOMOCO perches in to shiny new roller types. Daze sent everything I needed in the kit and I printed the instructions from the website. Overall it was a pretty straight forward task. Also test fit the trunk floor and gas tank.
Trunk floor pieces have been drilled for spot welds, sprayed with weld-thru primer, measured, fitted, refitted and finally welded in to placed. They were a pretty good fit for cheap aftermarket pieces. Still required a little massaging and trimming, but nothing significant. The gas tank fits square and the pre-drilled holes on it line up with the pre-drilled holes on the trunk pieces. Final install of the tank should be less trouble than expected.
Also spent a little time mocking up the taillight panel and trying to get it centered and even. I am going to have to do the quarter panels soon, but I think if I have the taillight panel in its proper place it will help with the getting the quarter panels in the correct locations.
Lastly, I picked up a set of 67/68 GT wheels that my dad had laying around. The paint was flaking and they had minor surface rust. Started a quick refurb on them last weekend. They'll be sprayed with rattle can Argent Silver.
I finally got around to pulling this thing out and getting my Dustless Blaster a hold of it. I knew that it would take longer than normal because of all the body filler that was baked on from 30 years in the sun. It was slow, but the blaster cut right through it. The dents you can see in the "After" photos are what was covered by the body filler. There was no warping caused from the blasting process.
Both quarter panels and the deck lid will be replaced. They were blasted mainly for practice and for some better before/after pictures.