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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I used wet media blasting....Water with #8 glass beads. That will keep the aluminum surface smooth and not let it get too porous like it would using crushed glass....There's a lot of debate on if you should clear coat it or not. Some say the clear hurts the heat transfer of the aluminum or that it will turn yellow and flake off. I went ahead and shot a light coat of VHT matte clear coat over it. If it causes problems or discolors (which I don't think it will) I'll just blast it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Started on the passenger side quarter panel this afternoon. I've had the Dynacorn replacement here for a while but haven't had time to remove the old panel.

20190325_122548 by M L, on Flickr

The panel on the car had been patched a long time ago and was stuck to the wheelhouse using what looked like window caulk. I cut along the top below the factory lead seam but will go back and remove the lead before attaching the new panel.

20190325_143453 by M L, on Flickr

This is the inside of the old panel showing where a patch had been lap welded on and then caulked to the the wheelhouse.

20190325_143504 by M L, on Flickr

20190325_143727 by M L, on Flickr

20190325_153129 by M L, on Flickr

I went ahead and pulled the window regulator assembly out so I could clean it and replace a few worn parts. Also used the wire wheel on this area and applied some rust reformer/primer. I taped off the areas where the new panel will attach so that they can be sprayed with weld-thru primer.

20190325_193618 by M L, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Spent time this afternoon working on the outer wheelhouse and getting it ready for it's Dynacorn replacement. I had planned on replacing the entire outer wheelhouse but after reading on the forums and looking at it closely I decided to just patch in what is needed. I think this will be much easier and leave more undamaged factory welds and metal.

The first step was to cut out the worst of the rust and then see what I had left. I then had to do a quick patch on the rocker. The rocker was full of dirt and rat nests but still pretty solid (minus the one rusted area higher up)

20190327_130759 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_131437 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_142218 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_142301 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_143710 by M L, on Flickr

I had to go back and notch the top of the rocker patch to allow room for the wheelhouse. Due to the rust I didn't realize that the top of the rocker stops short to allow room for wheelhouse to fit in flush with the back and side.

20190327_144958 by M L, on Flickr


I got busy and didn't take pictures of cutting out the bad wheelhouse....I cut along the raised reinforcement bend just below the factory bracing and used that as a template to mark the new wheelhouse since they fit on top of each other and kinda stacked up and stayed in placed After I had a pattern marked I cut it with the plasma cutter but left a half inch or so for mistakes and adjustment. Once it fits correctly I'll use an air saw to cut along the edge where the old and new pieces meet and then butt weld them together. (just like the floor pans were done)

20190327_201548 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_201539 by M L, on Flickr

20190327_203500 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Heated and removed the lead from the factory quarter/roof seam this afternoon. I was a little worried about warping the roof panel but it really didn't take much heat to loosen the lead. Panel still looked good when I was finished heating.

20190330_142305 by M L, on Flickr

20190330_142445 by M L, on Flickr

Finally got a chance to mock up the quarter panel. Still need to finish welding the outer wheelhouse and cleaning up some of the areas where I had to drill/cut some spot welds. Hope to have it attached by the end of the week.

20190330_203132 by M L, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Finished prepping the wheelhouse and the area that will be under the quarter panel. Cleaned up the welds and got some primer and rubberized coating on the topside of the wheelhouse. The only purpose of this coating will be to help with sound deadening. The rest of the car will either get something like Dynamat or Lizardskin, but I haven't decided if I'm going with sheets or a spray on coating.

The quarter panel is clamped/screwed in to place and fits pretty good. It has required a few modifications to get this far and will need one more once it is secured. I couldn't figure out why my trunk gap wasn't uniform. Finally figured out that the inside edge of the quarter panel bows in for about the last 6 inches. Once it's on I'll have to cut a gap with the cutoff wheel, bend it straight and then reweld it. It is hard to see in the pics.

20190403_164306 by M L, on Flickr

20190403_190543 by M L, on Flickr

20190403_191351 by M L, on Flickr

20190403_190324 by M L, on Flickr

This last pic shows the edge of the quarter panel bending it. It will be fixed soon.

20190402_181835 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Another minor accomplishment...

Using a steam cleaner and razor blades, my son and I were able to remove the purple window tint from the passenger door. It wasn't hurting anything but my eyes....Just couldn't stand to look at any longer. We had tried the razor blade and different chemicals in the past, but the steam was the way to go.

20190328_162846 by M L, on Flickr

20190328_162837 by M L, on Flickr

2019-04-03_08-24-09 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Did the 90% of the passenger quarter panel this afternoon. Still need to install the trunk corner brace and dress some welds. Overall it went on without too much pain or tears.

I also addressed the edge on the new quarter where it bowed out at the end. I had to have it secure before I could cut and weld. It came out OK but will need a little body filler to make it perfect.

20190411_152534 by M L, on Flickr

We made a straight cut with the cutoff wheel and pulled the gap together. This straightened out the bow enough to get a good trunk to body gap.

20190411_153422 by M L, on Flickr

Starting on the stitch welds.

20190411_153925 by M L, on Flickr

Welds mostly dressed and a good gap line.

20190411_160355 by M L, on Flickr

20190411_160840 by M L, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Blasted a few random pieces today before the bad weather rolled in. Knocked the rust off of my hood hinges and removed the paint from a GT rear valance that I picked up a few months ago. I shot epoxy primer on the valance but forgot to take a pic of it.

47968 by M L, on Flickr

47969 by M L, on Flickr

47971 by M L, on Flickr

47972 by M L, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Before I can remove the driver's side quarter panel I need to reinstall the door and get it lined up correctly....Before I do that I needed to fix some rust at the bottom of the door shell...While I'm at it I decided to go ahead and rebuild the hinges. Also realized for the first time today that my driver's side door hinges are from a 68 and the passenger side hinges are from a 65-67.

Not my best work on the door shell rust repair. But it will last until I decide if i'm keeping this door or replacing it. Second pic shows a few patches welded in while I cut out more rusted areas. I did it this way so I could keep the bends as close as possible.

20190419_154713 by M L, on Flickr

20190419_171522 by M L, on Flickr

20190419_173252 by M L, on Flickr

20190419_181948 by M L, on Flickr

After the welds were cleaned up and checked for pinholes I applied body filler to smooth it out and get it looking decent.

20190420_133735 by M L, on Flickr

A few coats and sandings later the expoxy primer was shot on it.

20190420_202201 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Also found time today to work on the roof to quarter panel seam. The factory seam was leaded but I used a fiberglass based body filler on it. It was applied and sanded four times before the epoxy primer was shot on it. Looks good but will probably get another coat to make it perfect.

I scuffed the ecoat on the rear taillight panel and quarter panel and shot them with epoxy primer as well. It is supposed to rain in the next few days and I didn't want any bare metal exposed in the high humidity.

20190420_162057 by M L, on Flickr

20190420_165331 by M L, on Flickr

20190420_182621 by M L, on Flickr

20190420_184827 by M L, on Flickr

20190420_202102 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Installed the driver's side door with the rebuilt hinges today and then began removing the driver's quarter panel. The theory is that if you start with the correct body/panel gaps then you can finish with the correct gaps....I used paint sticks to get the gap set. Placed the door on my padded roll around shop stools then used my kids and wife to line up the door, hold the backing plates and start the bolts. Really not as difficult as I had feared.

20190423_154436 by M L, on Flickr

20190423_155511 by M L, on Flickr

20190423_160252 by M L, on Flickr

20190423_162811 by M L, on Flickr

20190423_180209 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Heated and removed the lead from the factory quarter/roof seam this afternoon. I was a little worried about warping the roof panel but it really didn't take much heat to loosen the lead. lickr
Will regular blue bottle propane do this you think? I assume the fumes might be at least as harmful as Marlboros, do you know if a particulate mask would help.

Good job keeping it going forward.:yoho:
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Lead melts at a little over 620 degrees fahrenheit so a propane torch should soften it OK. According to the all-knowing internet, lead fumes aren't released until 900 degrees but I had no way of knowing what my exact temp was while applying the heat. I still wore a good painting filter and made sure I had plenty of air blowing away from me while I was melting it. It really didn't take long and my exposure time was kept to a minimum. I'll still check my heavy metal numbers next time I have blood work done!!!
 

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Really cool seeing the work you've done, Mel. Can't wait to see what's next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Seat risers arrived but like most aftermarket parts they needed some work. The center brace was welded on lower than the rest so it rocked back and forth. Simply drilled the spot welds, clamped it in to place and rewelded.

20190505_151223 by M L, on Flickr

20190505_151910 by M L, on Flickr

Also found some time to vapor blast a few random pieces that I picked up recently. Bumper brackets and subframe connectors. The hood hinge is original to the car.

20190503_162436 by M L, on Flickr

20190503_154529 by M L, on Flickr

Both sides of the rear floor needed patched. You can buy this part aftermarket but it is pretty simple so I just made one.

20190429_113357 by M L, on Flickr

20190429_113407 by M L, on Flickr

20190429_113657 by M L, on Flickr

20190429_115714 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Found an original decklid last week on craigslist. It had a small dent but no rust. Brought it home and blasted it. Had to remove original primer/paint, repaint, bondo, primer and last coat of paint. Under all of that was good metal. I just blasted the topside and shot a quick coat of epoxy primer on it......As a BONUS the underside was untouched and still covered in original Ford Nightmist Blue which is the exact color we're painting this thing when it's finished.

20190601_161132 by M L, on Flickr

20190601_164215 by M L, on Flickr

20190602_111035 by M L, on Flickr
 
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Got a few little things done over the last week or so.

Cleaned the underside of the decklid, removed the old seal and removed all the goo that was holding it on. Prepped it and hit with some touch-up paint that was a great match to the original color. Finally applied the new trunk seal. I will probably go ahead and order a reproduction spare tire decal to finish it off.

20190607_185416 by M L, on Flickr

20190607_182255 by M L, on Flickr

Also got the seat risers installed. I scuffed the e-coat on the underside and shot some enamel on them just to give them a little protection. Before welding them in I also put some sound dampener under them to keep road noise and heat to a minimum. Once the location was measure and marked I sanded off the epoxy primer and applied weld-thru primer in the areas that the seat riser would meet the floor pan.

20190605_115711 by M L, on Flickr

20190605_120810 by M L, on Flickr

20190608_200535 by M L, on Flickr

I'm currently working on prepping and installing the rear seat to trunk divider. I opted to go with a steel version instead of original cardboard style. Currently it is half painted and mocked up getting ready for pilot holes to be drilled. Once it is painted I'll apply sound killer to it as well.

20190610_170902 by M L, on Flickr

20190610_194038 by M L, on Flickr

20190610_194305 by M L, on Flickr
 
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