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Discussion Starter · #81 ·

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
20190914_135424 by M L, on Flickr

Noico sound deadening mat is mostly installed.

2019-09-08_11-45-27 by M L, on Flickr

Cowl panel is welded back on and I've been slowly dressing the welds.

2019-08-31_12-12-30 by M L, on Flickr

20190808_183325 by M L, on Flickr

Lately I've been trying my creative skills at building Heim joint linkages for the clutch/Z-bar setup. It looks like it will work just fine but won't know for sure until it's all installed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Another long overdue update....

2020-01-24_08-11-01 by M L, on Flickr

Spent the last few months finishing up some metal work and collecting pieces. I'm probably 95% finished with the rust repair and patches. Only major thing left is to modify a few aftermarket pieces that don't quite fit correctly (Rear GT valance) and find a good driver's side fender or patch the one I have.

I finally decided to pull the trigger on some aluminum heads and they arrived a few days ago. Still have more parts to collect before finishing the top end of this 390, but now closer than I thought I'd be by now.

2020-01-24_08-10-08 by M L, on Flickr

Another lucky find was this American Autowire full kit still new in the box. Picked it up for less than $300!!!

2020-01-24_08-09-47 by M L, on Flickr

The last major parts addition to my ever growing pile was this brake booster and pedal kit from the owner of MustangSteve.com. Recently discovered that he was in the same city I'm in and he was kind enough to let me drop by and pick it up. Great guy and knows he his stuff!! I'll update more as I install his kit. Since I'm going from manual to power brakes it looks like i'll be modifying the firewall....More metal work I guess.

2020-01-24_08-09-38 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Spent the afternoon installing the new MustangSteve booster along with my new pedal support. The old support had been "Fixed" sometime before we got the car 20+ years ago. That fix involved brazing a stack of washers on each side of the pedal support. I figured i'd be ahead of the game by just buying a new one. The only major issue I ran in to was finding out that the top of the pedal support hit the bottom of the cowl panel. I used Spectra patch panels when I repaired the cowl and they were not shaped exactly like the '67 cowl. Also, when I installed the cowl patch panels I had already removed the pedal support or I would have found the clearance issue way back then. It only took removing a few 16th's off the top of the support in order for it to line up correctly. I should mention that the aftermarket pedal support matched my OEM one perfectly, it would have been one of the few pieces I didn't have to adjust if I had caught the cowl issue earlier.

The rest of the process was simple enough with the directions that were provided. Cut firewall, drill holes to 1/2", drill out unused factory hole at dimple, paint and install.

2020-01-25_05-36-18 by M L, on Flickr

2020-01-25_05-36-46 by M L, on Flickr

2020-01-25_05-37-13 by M L, on Flickr

2020-01-25_05-37-33 by M L, on Flickr

2020-01-25_05-38-12 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
A little shop time today was enough to get the steering column installed. Overall an easy job even doing it by myself. Trying to get ready to begin the American Autowire install.

IMG_20200127_181133 by M L, on Flickr

IMG_20200127_181149 by M L, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Still working in the engine bay to get ready to drop the motor in. Once it's in there I don't think there is room to do anything around it.

Brake lines are routed. I bought the pre-bent kit for the front brakes, but still had to change the connectors to fit the proportioning valve. I'll run my own lines to the rear.

Clutch rod had been "Fixed" years ago. Looks like someone brazed a piece of rod to it and used washers to take up the slack. I welded the correct piece on and got it installed. Getting the spring installed on the pedal under the dash was a nightmare. I tried every trick I could find online but it was still a pain.









 
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Haven't posted in a while but keep slowly making progress. Motor is installed with only moderate headache. It seems that at some point the frame mounts were replaced by small block versions and the motor mounts "Modified" to work. Once that was discovered and remedied the motor went in fairly easy with the headers installed.





Also figured out that the bellhousing was actually for an FE truck and not the original Mustang 390 housing. This explains why the bearing retainer on the big block toploader was broken. The Mustang had a small block 3-speed in it when we bought it. After much online searching we figured out that the small block toploaders could be used with truck bellhousing because they had slightly longer input shafts. Big block toploaders used on FE truck housings would not have long enough input shafts to fit in to the pilot bearing. The easiest fix for this was replace the input shaft on our 4 speed with a small block version.







Also have the new fuel tank and sending unit installed along with an Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb sitting on top of the motor.

 

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Discussion Starter · #90 · (Edited)
Finally got the 390 put back in this thing after more than 4 years. It spun over and fired right up. Had to adjust the timing to keep it running at first but after that it was running great. Let it run about 20 minutes while varying the RPMs to get it broke in. Never smoked, rattled, backfired, shook or any other terrible thing that I had pictured in my mind....Did have a minor water leak from the waterpump. But I'll address that soon. Next step is to start putting the rest of the driveline in and go from there. Hope to have some test drives down the driveway by the end of the month.



The permanent wiring is wrapped neatly in the black techflex. The rainbow spaghetti is my temp wiring for my underhood test gauges and electric fans.





Last pic is link to video of it running.
 
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I'd think about replacing as much of that rubber hose for the fuel line as you can. Edelbrook has a nifty connection and I added a few parts from Summit. Here's what I did ...

Mustang Fuel Line 1.jpg Mustang Fuel Line 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I haven't updated this build thread in a while but work still continues slowly. I'm sure there is a "Correct" order in which to restore a classic Mustang, but I'm limited by time, money, knowledge, space and now parts availability. Back-ordered parts are starting to be more of an issue than in the past.

My initial plan was to drop this off at a paint shop once I reached this stage, but after a few quotes and most shops telling me they only did "Insurance jobs" I decided to try it myself. Plus it helps that a good friend owns the local paint supply house.

I tried to use as little body filler as possible, but there is still some on every panel. Even the new quarter panels had minor dings that needed smoothed. Looking back, the roof of the car should have been replaced due to the amount of dents and creases, but it was made acceptable after a few layers of polyester primer.

After kicking around different color ideas from Nightmist Blue to Satin Black I decided on Ford "Dark Blue" in a single stage paint. This is actually a 1970 Torino color and is one of the few non-metallic factory Ford colors that I thought would look period correct. To me, the non-metallic has a more old-school look....And as a beginner it's more forgiving to make touch-ups to paint mistakes.




Aftermarket tail light panel bezel mounting holes were too far apart. This cost a little time, but was an easy fix with a carbide burr and the mig.


Featherfill sprayed on roof to get smooth enough to look like I cared.



This shows the creases and dents that were revealed after blasting the old filler off.


My $85 "Paint Booth" aka Ebay wedding canopy


Painted hood.


Rear mock-up without quarter panel extensions installed.
 

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Damn! Love the idea of the "booth" and the paint looks nice as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Damn! Love the idea of the "booth" and the paint looks nice as well.
It works amazingly well for what it is. There is still some trash in the paint, but nothing that won't buff out. Also keeps the rest of the shop from turning blue.
 
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"Try" and do it yourself?! Nice job, very nice. You should be proud of your work.
 
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