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Discussion Starter #1
Been watching Barrett-Jackson,,,,, I always hear about a numbers matching engine & tranny,,, and though I understand what that means,,, I'm not sure how or where to look on my engine & tranny to see if they are the originals for the car I'm working on.

We're restoring a 65 San Jose coupe(C code),,, the engine /tranny that I pulled out of it are under my work bench in the garage,,, I noticed that there's a tag on the intake,,,, other than that,, no idea where I'm suppose to look for the proper numbers. Is there actually a certain number stamped somewhere,, and if so, how do I find out if it's the right one?

Here's the project (presently put to sleep for the winter).

65 Mustang Restoration

Thanks everyone,,
Doug
 

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from what I understand, Ford didnt worry as much about numbers matching drivetrain to the car like Chevy did. I dont think it matters as much on our cars.
 

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In all my research I understand that Ford didn't start stamping VINs on engine blocks, transmissions, fenders, etc until sometime in '67 due to new federal laws enacted at the time. It is still rare on '67 model year vehicles and was still hit and miss on some '68 vehicles. From what I've read Ford didn't stamp VINs on anything older. On your '65, dlsimon212, the best you can do is check the date stamps on things like the engine block (info is stamped right above the starter on the 289/302), the intake manifold, the cylinder heads, distributor (on a tag iirc), carburetor (on a tag if OE), and transmission (on a tag attached by the low-reverse servo cover bolt). If the trans tag is missing then you can at least go by the p/n and date code cast into the case located just behind the shift selector. If any of the date coded parts were made within a couple of months before your car's build date then they would fall into the "numbers matching" schema for your car. Restorers will usually replace incorrect parts w/ones that have a date code close enough to have been put on the car at the factory. Then that way they can use that loose term "numbers matching" when describing their vehicle. Of course in '67 when they started stamping the VIN on the engine, trans, fenders and other places it made it hard to say those components are part of a numbers matching vehicle if the stamped VIN doesn't match the one issued to the vehicle. You could still find heads, intake, carb, distributor and alot of other parts that had date codes but no VINs stamped on them to make your vehicle as close to "numbers matching" as possible or at least date correct I guess would be more like it.

Anyhow, thought I'd tell you what I've read and understand to be the thing w/matching numbers for our cars. Anyone, please feel free to correct anything I've said above if I'm wrong. I'm going by memory, personal experience and what I've read here on the VMF and other places and it's a lil past my bedtime so there's my excuse if anything is wrong, heehhee.

Hope that helps you understand the numbers matching "thing" especially how it applies to your '65 Mustang.

Best of luck!

Oscar
 

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Just wanted to correct myself in that the VIN is stamped on the fender apron, not fenders, and was being stamped there on pre '67 vehicles too. On most earlier Mustangs it is hidden by the fender and is close to the hood spring assys.

Oscar
 

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Just wanted to correct myself in that the VIN is stamped on the fender apron, not fenders, and was being stamped there on pre '67 vehicles too. On most earlier Mustangs it is hidden by the fender and is close to the hood spring assys.

Oscar
On early models two are hidden on rear aprons. One should always be visible on left front apron.
 

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My understanding
is that ONLY K code cars are true # matching cars during years of 64-67.
by this I mean the serial number, not part number.
these # are on:

S/N plate on the driver's door
the visiable stamped s/n on the L fender apron
the hidden s/n stamped into both fender aprons (even non K code had these)
the s/n stamped into the engine block
the s/n stamped into the transmission

only the K code cars had the s/n stamped into these six places
so when someone tries to tell you that they have a #'s matching
C code mustang,
it may mean that it is all original,
BUT it does not have the s/n's in all the places mentioned above

BTW
my K code has all the numbers matching
except the transmission
but i bought another K code stamped 4 spd toploader
out of another K code car

iowa
 

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Yeah, and the K code engine stamp could be kinda crude, too:

 

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A GM car has the VIN stamped on the motor. Early Mustangs do not. As a consequence there is one and only one original motor for a GM. But you can gather together all the correct date coded parts for a Ford and build a motor that no one can prove is NOT the original motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I appreciate ALL of the help from everyone,,, I was a bit worried about where all of those hidden #'s were at. We're attempting to keep this car some-what factory correct (with a few enhancements),,, to where only the true stang gear-head will know what's not quite right,,, and even that may take them a bit of looking.

Thanks Again!

Doug
 

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Research? Google is your friend.

Unfortunately, with regards to Chevys, you can't even trust matching serials/vins these days. I've walked away from several Chevy's because the stamping on the block looked too good or slightly off... suggesting they were re-stamped.

There are lots of unscrupulous sellers out there.
 

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Research? Google is your friend.

Unfortunately, with regards to Chevys, you can't even trust matching serials/vins these days. I've walked away from several Chevy's because the stamping on the block looked too good or slightly off... suggesting they were re-stamped.

There are lots of unscrupulous sellers out there.
You have to be careful.

In the high dollar Chevy market it is well known to restamp and also to have the casting codes on blocks changed.
 
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