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Been working on getting my 1968 Mustang back up and running. Found the block leaking. I got this car 30 years ago so at this point I have no choice I need to do something. So I am thinking a new crate motor. Any advice? I am looking for around 450hp, roller cam and lifters so I dont have to mess with lash. I plan on putting a Tremec TKX and a Holley super sniper on it with some FBA headers. My engine has a Victor Jr. Intake and the heads are cast ported polished with harlem sharp rocker arms. Maybe I could use those and save me some money?
I don't know, at this point it seems like I am going to be broke no matter what way I go. I could tear it down and get a new block but it seems like its not really cost effective. I want this to be my "daily driver" ( but only seasonal) and to take it to the track maybe once or twice a year for fun.
Water Fluid Liquid Gas Automotive tire
 

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All the people i know who would buy an engine over doing it themselves have been buying engines from blueprint. They all are happy with them. One guy who is a drag racer had one drop a valve. it was replaced on warranty.
 

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Replace an entire block because of a leak?? My engine would have to be dead or making some terrible noises before I replaced it. But for 450HP you will be looking for a stroked 347ci or higher maybe start with a 351W since you have a 68 the 351W will fit easier in it.
 

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Horse power costs money. IMO the most cost effective way forward would be finding a well respected local engine builder. Take your parts to him and I’m sure they will work with you.
Everyone loves lots of HP but don’t use 450 as deal breaker.
As soon as you start pushing that kind of power through the original drive train, something will break.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
This motor I have is a 351W and already 400+ HP. The leak is coming from a crack in the block it looks like to me. The work involved combined with the cost I am considering a new crate engine and putting what I can use off my engine on it.
 

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Is that plain water? Does not look like anti freeze.
 

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It sure seems like a crack. This pic might help a little. That is a little droplet of water View attachment 818283

Look closely at your picture. I can see drops of water on the block above the one you put the arrow to. The leak is coming from somewhere above your freeze plug and finally dropping off the block below the freeze plug. Unless your froze your engine with plain water or threw a rod, I doubt your block is cracked. I'd bet you have a leaking head gasket, intake manifold, etc. Seeing as how that leak is right above your starter, take a close look at the back of your intake to see if it's leaking coolant.
 
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Try to clean the area as best as you can, and then spray some of that white powder foot fungus spray in the area. The water will leave tracks through it and you can see where it's actually coming from.
 

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All you need is a coolant pressure tester. Just hook it up to your radiator and pressurize the cooling system. You will see where the leak is coming from. I think you might be able to "borrow" one from one of the Autozone or Advance tool programs, or you can buy one. They are a lot cheaper than a new engine.
 

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Now the while you in there factor kicks in. won't be pretty but less than a rebuild
Send both heads out. Timing chain, water pump, valve train,, detailing of the manifolds etc
 

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Horse power costs money. IMO the most cost effective way forward would be finding a well respected local engine builder.
Who do you go to around here (I think you're near me, no?)? I am in the (passive) market and every local builder I've checked is higher than a crate. I think I may (passively. :) ) have a local builder machine the spare block I have for a 347, and just buy a balanced rotating assembly.
 
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