Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Sad sad day =(

4K views 35 replies 24 participants last post by  gwstang 
#1 ·
Been working on getting my 1968 Mustang back up and running. Found the block leaking. I got this car 30 years ago so at this point I have no choice I need to do something. So I am thinking a new crate motor. Any advice? I am looking for around 450hp, roller cam and lifters so I dont have to mess with lash. I plan on putting a Tremec TKX and a Holley super sniper on it with some FBA headers. My engine has a Victor Jr. Intake and the heads are cast ported polished with harlem sharp rocker arms. Maybe I could use those and save me some money?
I don't know, at this point it seems like I am going to be broke no matter what way I go. I could tear it down and get a new block but it seems like its not really cost effective. I want this to be my "daily driver" ( but only seasonal) and to take it to the track maybe once or twice a year for fun.
Water Fluid Liquid Gas Automotive tire
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·
Replace an entire block because of a leak?? My engine would have to be dead or making some terrible noises before I replaced it. But for 450HP you will be looking for a stroked 347ci or higher maybe start with a 351W since you have a 68 the 351W will fit easier in it.
 
#4 ·
Horse power costs money. IMO the most cost effective way forward would be finding a well respected local engine builder. Take your parts to him and I’m sure they will work with you.
Everyone loves lots of HP but don’t use 450 as deal breaker.
As soon as you start pushing that kind of power through the original drive train, something will break.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Huntingky
#20 ·
Horse power costs money. IMO the most cost effective way forward would be finding a well respected local engine builder.
Who do you go to around here (I think you're near me, no?)? I am in the (passive) market and every local builder I've checked is higher than a crate. I think I may (passively. :) ) have a local builder machine the spare block I have for a 347, and just buy a balanced rotating assembly.
 
#14 ·
Try to clean the area as best as you can, and then spray some of that white powder foot fungus spray in the area. The water will leave tracks through it and you can see where it's actually coming from.
 
#19 ·
Now the while you in there factor kicks in. won't be pretty but less than a rebuild
Send both heads out. Timing chain, water pump, valve train,, detailing of the manifolds etc
 
#25 ·
Late to the fight, but here’s one more vote that’s a freeze plug leaking.

When I was younger, I replaced 2 freeze plugs in my 68 GT 390 without removing the engine. Jacked the engine up/removed the motor mount. I couldn’t do that today as my body won’t let me, but with your small block car, you should be able to do it.

Personally, I just pull the motor and replace all the freeze plugs. If one is rotted, trust me, the others aren’t far behind. Plus with it out you can check it out for the crack that is .0001% possible.
 
#27 ·
I once looked over a car that was dripping coolant from the bellhousing. Cleaned it carefully, and dusted it with talcum powder. Turned out the leak was at the top of timing cover, and the coolant was travelling along the top edge of the oil pan to rear of the engine.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top