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Instead of saying "How to do a burnout," and I haven't tried a burnout before so I thought I'll ask. I just want to play safe with my vintage Mustang. Correct me if I'm wrong, all I have to do is to press the brake and gas pedals until RPM reach 3000 and then let go the brake and punch the gas? Of course I'm talking about automatic transmission.
 

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well if you do with the 429 mach, just nail the gass bossman /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 

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It depends on which car you're asking about. Like the man said, the 429 should be easy. So should the Mach I. Just stick em and the wheels should light up. Our 351W SportsRoof and the 302 convertible both work that way. Brake stands always bother me, however, since all that stress and slippage can't be good for the transmission.
 

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Any way you do it, a burn-out puts a lot of stress on the tranny, rear end etc. Yes, holding the brakes then punching/releasing will give you a more impressive burn-out, which is more stress on everything. The coolness factor comes with a price!
 

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Richlong is talking about a line lock, where you can just have brakes to the front brakes and no stress on the rear brakes.
 

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With an auto, use 2nd and 3rd.
1st gear burnouts wreck the sprag (one way) clutch at the rear of the tranny.
 

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Even better......take a corner or turn lightly and half way through the turn punch it. Two things will happen. 1- because your car is already moving you should have the engine up to about 3000 RPM and 2- the weight of the car cornering will cause the rear end to swing out and there you have it....you will fry the back tires at about 3000 RPM and you will be fish-tailing down the road. Cooler then any brakestand I've ever seen. Scares the hell out of people to. Be sure to keep it in first at all times, just shift to second once you have grabbed some traction again and are heading down the road.

Oh ya...and be sure to crank some Iron Maiden....drives people nuts.

Greg.
 

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Click here http://www.mrgasket.com/hurstmain.html then go to the shifter accessories line at the bottom then click it. Look at the "Roll Control" part. You'll see why I said "Line-Loc" just another name for the same thing.
 

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The 1st time I showed my son how to do a burnout he asked "How did you do that"??? You gotta know your car to do it right. But it takes practice to know you car. Find a place where nobody is around. Pull it into low gear, unless you have a Cruze-a-matic and that's another story... Anyway, pull it into low gear, press the brakes hard, then press the gas about halfway. If that doesn't break the tires loose, go full throttle. But remember, do all this in about 2 seconds. Stop if you don't break the tires loose. Then go out & buy performance stuff /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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1st gear burnouts wreck the sprag (one way) clutch at the rear of the tranny.

As long as they're done in manual low (with the low-reverse band/clutch engaged), I've seen no problems. Did them for years that way with the little engines as they had a hard time starting the big tires turning on the race car in second gear.

Of course, I'm talking about the track and our poster is likely talking about the street so two very different animals...*G*
 

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What is the purpose of the burnout? *G*

If the purpose is eliminating about 10K miles from your rear tires in one application, then, considering the torque on tap with your engine, merely put your foot on the brake, place the C6 selector in manual low, depress the throttle until you see smoke and hear funny screeching noises, and then release the brake and continue until the engine blows up or you shift to second gear for more of same.

Big blocks are fun! *G*

If you want to know how to do burnouts at the track with either street tires or slicks like I run on the race car, let me know..

Have fun!

Edited to add all I saw was 429CJ...hehehe
 
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