Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, this is kinda long but i just sold y foxbody to get this scenario handled as i got let go from my job during the economic **** show...anyways ive got a 302 flat tappet isky 280. broke in cam, 25 mins at 2.5-3k rpm then wrapped the pipes a few times. shut off. dumped fluids. Oil looked good, replaced oil and filter added lusac zinc additive per bottle. letter idle and man did she sound GOOOOODD. Drove about 6 hours give or take over the next 3 days back and forth to my buddies shop.. long story short the third night when headed home, big backfire through carb, stalled out. Thought it was odd, started back up.. on my way, then a few shotgun pops went off through headers. I immediately pulled over called AAA. After waiting 2 hours for truck and finally getting her home I started her up and she was missing like a mofo. shut her down asap. Next morning I pulled valve covers as I heard some tapping/clacking. rocker arm stud was unscrewing from my gt40 heads (I had tapped heads for studs). pulled intake to check lifter and found 2 of them failed/came apart thank god nothing went into motor someone was watching over my motor ill tell you that much.. pulled heads to make sure piston and valve/piston ok. everything checked out fine no issues other than the two lifters. the rest of them were rock hard and I couldnt plunge down any at all except one or two. checked cam as best I could through lifter bores and didn't see anything abnormal wear for a cam that was just broke in.. so I replaced lifters with some Howards Cams stock replacements and re-broke in cam to match the lifters...(didn't wanna chance iskys again) and did a head swap with some rebuilt HiPo 289/K-Code heads with studs, dual springs, pushrod slots, spring cups, melling pushrods for 289 and my comp cam extreme energy aluminum roller tip rocker arms (1.6) .
749974
<-------- THESE ARE THE ROCKER ARMS IM RUNNING

MY Question is.. After performing valve adjustment (1/2 turn after zero lash per Howards and Isky's recommendations for cam/lifter preload and did not soak lifters per every article now lol) my motor starts up and revs healthy but header tube 2 and 4 are glowing RED HOT and clacking like their too loose. 4 more so then 2 with cyl 4 clacking a lot more than 2 . pipe only glowing about 2 or 3 inches out from heads.. I've since tried 1/4 turn, 1/2 again, then 3/4 turn. 3/4 turn being too much to start vehicle. reset valves with 1/2 turn past zero lash (up and down check) figured noise might just be a stuck lifter so I dumped some mystery oil. ran motor and tried too take it for a spin. as soon as I give it the slightest gas it wants to die. if I start it up again and give it the big toe and throw it in drive "POP POP" and stalls.. what to do... Cam wiped? Lifters stuck?.. my oil pressure is at 50 when idling at 800/1000 ish in park, valves not sticking.. ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
I wouldn't keep starting the car until I found the culprit.

One of the first things I would do is to run a cylinder leak down test (or even a compression test) to help locate the offending cylinders and go from there.

You have given us lots of variables.

Did you degree the cam or just install it install it straight up?

When a cam is wiped you will normally find a matching wiped lifter face.

A threaded rocker stud should never back out on its own. Have you verified that the threads are properly tapped and that the part of the head that the stud gets tightened against has been made flat for proper stud contact? This is a good place to used loctite and the studs should be properly torqued to the head. Are you using a poly lock type nut on the stud? A positive type lock is needed to keep the nut(s) from backing off on their own. They can back off faster than one might think if they do not hold properly.

The glowing tubes makes it sound like the ignition timing is off and/or the cylinders are running overly rich or lean. What do all the spark plugs look like when pulled?
There is plenty more to look at first look at the offending cylinders and diagnose those issues first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Update : I checked pushrods and they all roll straight / not burnt/ends look good and round. heads on vehicle now are rebuilt ( Hi-Po ) heads with factory style studs and were already in the heads and were checked/locktited by machine shop.

The heads ( GT40P ) I personally tapped and installed studs ARE GONE and REPLACED with the new HiPo head if didnt make it clear.
So i have new 289 heads, new Melling 289ci pushrods, new Comp Roller tips, new Lifters , old cam.

Timing is set at 13 degrees with a new ProForm HEI for 289-302 with matching dizzy gear.
will pull plugs again and check. ive been busy doing all my body work and cant remember.. check it out btw! QUARANTINE GOT ME LIKE...

@64-1/2 first.... 66 now @geicoman58 @dennis111
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,908 Posts
He said check pushrod length, not whether they are straight. You went from GT40 heads to 289 heads and used the same pushrods without checking for proper pushrod length. That might work out but I wouldn't have risked it. If your pushrods are off by enough you can end up with severe valvetrain issues.

Check out this video:

Also, can you please change your avatar to something less punchable? :LOL:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
just pulled dizzy intake, timing cover, and cam...... cam lobes worn on cyl 2 and 4 . explains the valve tapping and random pops! all I know is im headed to isky right now to get everything I need. apon inspection of what caused it.. well it appears my oil pump drive shaft is short? ? and sits up higher in the hei shaft than my oem dizzyy….. only thing I can think of is the shaft somehow wasn't seated correctly apon breakin !? maybe? well youd think i woulda seen bearing material in the oil.. . my roller block may be going in here soon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,862 Posts
By HEI distributor, are you meaning a distributor with the large GM cap? Most people dislike them due to their appearance and that they look out of place on a Ford.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
By HEI distributor, are you meaning a distributor with the large GM cap? Most people dislike them due to their appearance and that they look out of place on a Ford.
I do have a big cap HEI. I personally like the look and the convenience of being able to go to the corner auto store in case I need a coil, ignitor, or cap wherever and whenever I need too regardless of location and or time as they are always in stock. I went through hell with MSD parts in my 90 gt..coils always going bad, PIP sensors being finicky and eventually ended up going back to ford/motorcraft ignition parts as they are readily available for the foxes MOST of the time..
I saw the HEI as a easier, cheaper, electronic ignition..
WHERE I FAILED, was to check the oil pump shaft length (my oil pump shaft "lock/retainer clip" was not there so it would come out with the dizzy), and that's something I should have confirmed. (my fault , live and learn) I found out the stock oil pump shaft in the hei goes up much father than the oem dizzy. so you could install it and it woudnt be seated in the pump. when I broke the motor in I had oil pressure, went inside while she was idling real high... came back out and noticed the gauge was reading low... Moral of the story if you guys are looking or know anyone considering an hei swap. make sure to check dizzy length and confirm the oil pump shaft is seated in..
WHAT IVE LEARNED. Had I just used a ford style distributor or installed the pump shaft with the retainer as it should be I wouldn't have damaged my bearings with 200 odd miles on it. Live and Learn. Thanks guys , I have a 90 roller going to get rebuilt this week an open to suggestions! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,903 Posts
Ok, from experience...since you wiped lobes, pull the block, flush and clean. Convert to a full roller, unless, as you eluded, your roller block. There is going to be metal in the oil and it will find its way into the bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,862 Posts
Good info . I've never heard of the shaft depth issue on the distributor. Sounds like a design flaw
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top