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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone running one?

Summit has a liquid filled gauge for $32. I thought it might be a good tool to use while diagnosing cooling/overheat issues.

I have a spare port on the intake where I could screw it in.

I dont want non-stock gauges in my 65s interior.

Has anyone ever seen finned aluminum pipes that could be used in place of the heater hoses?

Im thinking about different methods to increase cooling capacity without increasing the radiator size or installing anything in front of the radiator.
 

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I also didn't want to see any aftermarket gauges on/under my dash. The one I got was from Speedhut I think. Mooneyes seems one as well. You can see mine right next to the monte carlo bar. Works great and everybody who has noticed it has wondered why they haven't ever thought to do that.

Don't have an answer about the finned pipe. I'm not sure a small piece of pipe like that would do much anyway. Mine has a piece of tubing from the heater port inlet to the outlet that a PO install when they disconnected the factory heat/AC. That has old braided hose cover dress up on it. All the hoses had that on them when I bought it but I have removed most of it.
 

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You might want to consider a heater shut-off valve. Stopping the flow to the heater will force the coolant through the radiator. Without one the hot water exits the intake manifold, runs through the heater core, and right back into the engine at the water pump. The best way to add additional cooling capacity would be to install a bigger radiator or to reduce the heat load (more efficient combustion).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My heater core is leaking so I bypassed it until I can get the box out and replace it. I have AC so I dont know how big a job that is in a 65. Im not going to worry about it until the fall.

I dug around the auto parts store and found a molded hose that I could run from the manifold to the WP in place of the heater hoses. It looks really clean and I like not having the heater hoses, but I think that it will cause me over heating issues when it starts getting really hot. I put a 190° thermostat in because thats what I took out.

Ive got a 17" radiator and cant go wider unless I evac the AC that is R12 and move the hoses. Its a 2 core and is in excellent condition.
 

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My heater core is leaking so I bypassed it until I can get the box out and replace it. I have AC so I dont know how big a job that is in a 65. Im not going to worry about it until the fall.

I dug around the auto parts store and found a molded hose that I could run from the manifold to the WP in place of the heater hoses. It looks really clean and I like not having the heater hoses, but I think that it will cause me over heating issues when it starts getting really hot. I put a 190° thermostat in because thats what I took out.

Ive got a 17" radiator and cant go wider unless I evac the AC that is R12 and move the hoses. Its a 2 core and is in excellent condition.
Instead of looping the heater connections just PLUG the intake manifold outlet and cap the water pump inlet.


 

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Discussion Starter #6
I couldnt find the caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have a p/n? I asked at he three parts joints here, no one had any idea what I was talking about.
 

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You might want to consider a heater shut-off valve. Stopping the flow to the heater will force the coolant through the radiator. Without one the hot water exits the intake manifold, runs through the heater core, and right back into the engine at the water pump. The best way to add additional cooling capacity would be to install a bigger radiator or to reduce the heat load (more efficient combustion).
This comment piques my interest. If my car, which runs fine temperature wise without AC, starts running hot when the newly installed AC is used, would bypassing the heater core result in the car running cooler? It seems to me if it does have this result, this could be a simple solution for running too hot in the summer time when using the AC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks
 
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