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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for advice on which path to take with my power steering. I enjoy power assist and have no desire to go to manual.

I will be doing a total front end rebuild on my 66 289 coupe which has original style P/S with valve and ram.
The valve and ram are actually in good shape, no leaks on the garage floor.
Steering is original old school vague :)

Since I will be doing all the linkage, I have a case of "while im in there, might as well..." and would like to upgrade the steering.
My budget limits my choices to
1- Borgeson "upgrade" with Saginaw style PS conversion, at around $900
OR
a new replacement steering box at half the price, retaining my working valve and ram for power assist.

Im not too concerned with being totally original, so the Saginaw style pump is ok. My question is does the slightly tighter ratio and elimination of the valve and ram for a centerlink result in significantly better performance ( i.e. less slop and play ) than just a new box alone, which is about half the price of the Borgeson. NPD has one thats new, not rebuilt for $499

With all new linkage and bushings things will be much improved - im just wondering if the OEM style power assist introduces that much more looseness that its worth the $400-500 more. Should I stick with 'if it aint broke dont fix it" and put the 500 to other upgrades? Or 'do it right' by having all new components and possibly introducing less play in the system.

My uses are weekend cruises with some spirited driving.

Thanks in advance-
Joe
 

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A big part of the vague issue has to do with alignment. Stock specs call for zero caster or there abouts. With no caster it's going to cause the car to wander. My 66 was PS, I removed the pump and ram. I've installed a roller bearing idler arm and that has been a help in making a more precise and direct feel. The stock bushing allows the linkage to move around.

As far as your steering box, it's going to be like new. It doesn't have any load on it with the ram doing it instead. The steering box is basically signalling the control valve.
 

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Check with @CHOCK at Chockostang to deliver a rebuilt (or rebuild your) steering box with a limiter to increase the "feel" of your power steering with quicker response, and the Arning/Shelby Drop plus extra caster or camber for more return-to-center. Hard to beat that original, especially with no leaks!
 

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^^^^^^ +1. Chock is the way to go. Your replacement boxes will not be the same quality as a restored stock steering box .Not even close.

Oh, by the way, the cost of a restored box will be 1/3 - 1/2 of what a new boxes are going for..


Z
 

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A "new" Mustang box is going to have Argentine parts in it, so my advice is have the original redone.
(Argentine parts = nowhere near the wear hardness of the OE stuff)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Just to put a different perspective in place, my car did not have power steering but I had upgraded to a power steering box for the quicker ratio. When I decided to go to power steering, I sourced an Eaton pump and brackets and installed a Borgeson box. It's a little quicker than the ps box and it doesn't have an overboosted feel. I am happy with the results and it has a little more of the vintage look.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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I autocrossed an original PS steering system for 15 years. WHen all the components are right, its a beautiful thing. There are ways to adjust the amount of assist to your liking, I ran mine bone stock. Every thing else comes with baggage and frankly may limit the market for buyers. Vague comes from worn parts and as stated above, the wrong alignment specs. Seek specs for todays tires as the original specs are for old school bias ply tires. Makes a big difference. IF your system doesn't leak, try like hell not to remove or stress any hoses on the components down under during your rebuild. Once sealed, leave 'em alone! If you have to break one open, you run the risk of not being able to get it to seal again without replacing the inner seat. Do it once, do it right and drive...
 

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Basically the wrong thing about the original Power Steering on our Vintage Mustangs is time and abuse. Old rubber, worn out seals will leak, worn out internals will wander, and not updating of these facts will produce inferior, cobbled, incorrect (Most are) workmanship will produce a bad system.
Put the two together and you get the feedback from the unaware--These things leak, they wander, they are to responsive, they are not responsive--
So why did Ford and Chevy use these for 20 years when the wet Boxes (As Borgensen) was there by both manufactures--BECAUSE it was a good system.
Go tell a 63-85 Corvette guy his Power Steering sucks--Better be wearing a crotch protector.
I'll positively guarantee a brand new Toyota steering box--Yes Borg will leak, wander, be vage, not responsive in 50 years!!!
Then what will that generation do--Another BEST thing will be introduced, Folks will salivate all over it, life will continue, cycle starts over.
 

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Dan at Chockostang is the way to go but you better hurry. I heard he's going on vacation in December. His contact info is on his website. He can rebuild what you have and make it as good as new,

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all for the thoughtful replies!
Being that there are many folks reporting their happiness with a healthy OEM system, I am now inclined to keep my OEM setup (after all it is functioning well and leak free).

I will resist the urge to swap it out just because 'since im in here already' syndrome starts to kick in. Im doing the suspension as well as the front end so I think maybe the smart thing to do would be to enjoy the OEM steering with the all new components for a while and see how things feel. New rods, bushings, idler, ball joints, etc and a fresh proper alignment will go a long way to improve the situation and free my budget for other mods. Then Ill see where I stand.

Thank you Chockostang for your imput - I have your service bookmarked!
You may here from me 'down the road'. Its great to have VMF as a resource where you can talk directly to many vendors.

-Joe
 

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Thanks all for the thoughtful replies!
Being that there are many folks reporting their happiness with a healthy OEM system, I am now inclined to keep my OEM setup (after all it is functioning well and leak free).

I will resist the urge to swap it out just because 'since im in here already' syndrome starts to kick in. Im doing the suspension as well as the front end so I think maybe the smart thing to do would be to enjoy the OEM steering with the all new components for a while and see how things feel. New rods, bushings, idler, ball joints, etc and a fresh proper alignment will go a long way to improve the situation and free my budget for other mods. Then Ill see where I stand.

Thank you Chockostang for your imput - I have your service bookmarked!
You may here from me 'down the road'. Its great to have VMF as a resource where you can talk directly to many vendors.

-Joe
You are VERY welcome sir!
 

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People sell these cars short because they typically drive crappy. Most of that is simply due to a totally worn out suspension. Once freshened up and a few minor cheap modifications they actually drive and handle very well.
^^^^^^^^ +1

Any doubters can just reflect about the sales history made by the 65-70 Mustangs, especially the 65/66’s. The early Mustangs sold in the hundreds of thousands most every year. No other new model has ever matched the sales of the early Mustang.

these millions of buyers weren’t buying because the steering was loose and vague. They (we) were buying because the car had hit a home run. It was as powerful as the buyer could afford, it was very nimble and even braked well. If a current vintage Mustang owner can’t say those things about their own car, it’s on them, not the car.
 

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I have everything in a box in my shed to add factory-correct power steering to MyFirstCar, from the filler cap to the frame insert nut and everything in between. The only reason I never have is because I was honestly satisfied with my factory box when I updated all the other parts...THEN I added a16:1 box and it didn't take so much trouble to make a turn, changing lanes and carving curves became FUN...and I still like the nothing-but-an-engine look under the hood, I have no leaks...BUT, I have driven the Emberglo66 I bought for my son and MAN it is so smooth, responsive, leak-free, and after a shoulder surgery that box of goodies is looking GOOD.
 

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I put some fresh grease in my 16:1 box along with a roller bearing idler arm. The roller bearing idler arm will make steering a little easier but it adds a bunch of preciseness. Steering feels very direct and responsive.
 
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