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Discussion Starter #1
Just pulled the motor on my 1966 C Code Fastback and going to rebuild it. I am planning on either a 331 or 347, but can't decide yet. My goal is a daily driver. I will never been on the track, but do want to get on the throttle every once in a while.


What I have so far:
  • 1966 stock 289 block (seasoned, no faults I can see yet)
  • Trick Flow 170 61cc FAC (new, 2.020 intake, 1.600 exhaust)
  • Trick Flow 1.6 roller rockers (new)
  • Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb (new)
  • Edelbrock Performer Intake (new, dual plane, idle - 5500rpm)
  • Comp Cams Magnum Double Roller Chain (new)
  • Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch 10" (new)
What I am planning:
[*]FordStrokers.com 331 or 347 kit
[*]0.30 over bore (cleaned and honed, no align bore/decking)
[*]Have the cylinders notched if they need to be for clearance
[*]Rebuild with 4speed with a David Kee kit
[*]Traction Bars
[*]Subframe Connectors (rear to front)


My questions:
  1. I know most folks say custom cam grind, but are there any off the shelf reccomendations out there for my setup?
  2. For a daily driver, would i-beam rods suffice or h-beams the only way to fly?
  3. Feel free to chime in on the 331 vs 347 . . .
Thanks for any help!
 

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Spammer Hammer
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I-Beam and H-Beam are typically used in different scenarios. For instance, I-Beams are generally better suited for road race applications where the engine will see constant acceleration and deceleration at multiple engine speed for long durations.

Edit: Unless of course you are using Carrillo at $1200-$1500 per set. Then you can pretty much beat the hell out of them.
 

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I-Beam and H-Beam are typically used in different scenarios. For instance, I-Beams are generally better suited for road race applications where the engine will see constant acceleration and deceleration at multiple engine speed for long durations.

Edit: Unless of course you are using Carrillo at $1200-$1500 per set. Then you can pretty much beat the hell out of them.
i have seen both carrillo and oliver rods used in roadracing. i use oliver standard light rods.
 

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Just pulled the motor on my 1966 C Code Fastback and going to rebuild it. I am planning on either a 331 or 347, but can't decide yet. My goal is a daily driver. I will never been on the track, but do want to get on the throttle every once in a while.


What I have so far:
  • 1966 stock 289 block (seasoned, no faults I can see yet)
  • Trick Flow 170 61cc FAC (new, 2.020 intake, 1.600 exhaust)
  • Trick Flow 1.6 roller rockers (new)
  • Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb (new)
  • Edelbrock Performer Intake (new, dual plane, idle - 5500rpm)
  • Comp Cams Magnum Double Roller Chain (new)
  • Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch 10" (new)
What I am planning:
[*]FordStrokers.com 331 or 347 kit
[*]0.30 over bore (cleaned and honed, no align bore/decking)
[*]Have the cylinders notched if they need to be for clearance
[*]Rebuild with 4speed with a David Kee kit
[*]Traction Bars
[*]Subframe Connectors (rear to front)


My questions:
  1. I know most folks say custom cam grind, but are there any off the shelf reccomendations out there for my setup?
  2. For a daily driver, would i-beam rods suffice or h-beams the only way to fly?
  3. Feel free to chime in on the 331 vs 347 . . .
Thanks for any help!
331 vs 347 that one is easy go with the 347. There is no point in leaving power on the table. Look up some of my threads on my budget 331 and 347. The 347 will make more horsepower and Torque at a lower RPM all else being equal. I beam rods and a cast scat crank with a good Forged piston is all you will need. Look at Ad Performance for stroker kits. Small Block Ford Stroker Kits : AD Performance, Your Source for Longblock Performance Parts
As far as cams go, Custom cams from FTI or Bullet are good choices. For off the shelf cams look into Anderson cams. And do not use the performer intake. Use the Stealth, RPM or Air Gap
 

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I would think the standard Performer (not Performer RPM) would be a huge bottleneck to those heads with their huge 2.02 intakes and ports. You will need a lot of valve spring to keep them closed at RPM. Not sure why you want/need that big a valve for a 5500 RPM engine. Those heads seem overkill for that intake and carb.

If you a buying from Jim Woods at FSs.com then pick his brain on some of your questions. I would think a lot about cam and compression ratio.

Good luck
Paul
 

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I pretty much have your exact parts list on my 331 including the intake. But I only have a 500cfm carb at this point, FiTech on the work bench waiting. It seems pretty peppy to me! The port mis-match between the intake and heads is a bit extreme.

It sounds like you have a competent "Ford" machine shop near you. Ford Strokers is supposed to be one of the best, but they are always 6 months out and thats a lot of shipping charges.
 

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My questions:
[*]I know most folks say custom cam grind, but are there any off the shelf reccomendations out there for my setup?
What transmission and rear ratio are you running or planning on running? You can't responsibly recommend a cam without those details. Also, HP goals? Purely street driven? Going to take to dragstrip? Using nitrus?

[*]For a daily driver, would i-beam rods suffice or h-beams the only way to fly?
HP goals? Top of desired RPM range?

[*]Feel free to chime in on the 331 vs 347 . . .
All things equal, higher revving would be a key difference of the 331 stroke. As far as advantages some may place more confidence in engine longevity going with the 331 stroke in a 289 block vs. a 347 stroke.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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i have seen both carrillo and oliver rods used in roadracing. i use oliver standard light rods.
Good point SS2. I forgot about the Oliver rods. Still in the same price range however, and I believe all Oliver rods are I-Beam right? There's also Callie's. I'm not sure I would put them in the same league as Carrillo or Oilver though.
 

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Good point SS2. I forgot about the Oliver rods. Still in the same price range however, and I believe all Oliver rods are I-Beam right? There's also Callie's. I'm not sure I would put them in the same league as Carrillo or Oilver though.
Olivers are I beam "parabolic beam" design. made from aircraft quality E4340 chrome moly.

Oliver - Products
 

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Discussion Starter #19
update

Thanks for all the recommendations. Ended up talking to Jim Grubbs months back and he was pretty backed up. He did refer me to some other places and spent about an hour on the phone with me walking through options and parts recommendations. I ended up taking the block to Vellios Machine Shop in Manhattan Beach, CA to get the block work done. Great place and highly recommend it.

I went the 347 route
  • Scat crank
  • I-Beam rods
  • Forged, dished pistons
  • Isky 264 Mega Hydraulic Cam
Just finished painting it all, putting it together and started to test fit things so I figured I would post an update. Will post another when I get it back in the car and fired. Thanks again all for the help.



 

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I hope it runs as good as it looks.
Don't forget to install the missing bolts. And use an Xacto knife to trim away the excess timing cover gasket.
 
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