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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After getting a price for body work, I decided welding is a skill I need to possess. So I bought a small Hobart mig, a couple books, and had at it.
Not wanting to jump right in and ruin body panels, I thought I'd practice on something less valuable, so I made DazeCars' homemade subframe connectors.
After only one 1 Lb roll of wire, and like 1/2 ton of various cutoff and grinding wheels, I ended up with these. They even fit like they're supposed to. :thumbup:
So just call me Mr. Fabricator. :p
They do hit the little screw for the oval shaped plug in the rear floorboards, though, so I think I'll sleep on how I want to address that.
Later,
Dennis
 

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good job, and way to save urself some money!!!!
 

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cool man but the picture doesn't show your welds. Let's see em.
:thumbup: I agree. Which model is it? HH140? I have the 187 and it loves 1/8 and thicker. I think I'll remove my subframe connectors and re-weld them with the 187 just for fun(and increased stiffness). Have fun with the welder but make sure you stay within its limitations. I have seen too many welders(and weldors) be pushed beyond their limits causing unsafe conditions. Unfortunately I have been involved in a situation like that and can only hope it doesn't result in injury. A car owner asked me to weld a MII front clip on a '49 Ford with a 125A Hobart MIG. That welder was not capable of that job and this weldor(me) should have refused. The car has since been sold so I don't know whatever happened with it.
Grant
 

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They look great. What was the cost of the tubing?

For the tube hitting the screw, I'd use a cutoff wheel and cut the screw flush with the floor. You can always drill a hole in the tube, from above, if you need to replace the screw with a standard length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Stanger'66 said:
cool man but the picture doesn't show your welds. Let's see em.
:thumbup: I agree. Which model is it? HH140? I have the 187 and it loves 1/8 and thicker. I think I'll remove my subframe connectors and re-weld them with the 187 just for fun(and increased stiffness). Have fun with the welder but make sure you stay within its limitations. I have seen too many welders(and weldors) be pushed beyond their limits causing unsafe conditions. Unfortunately I have been involved in a situation like that and can only hope it doesn't result in injury. A car owner asked me to weld a MII front clip on a '49 Ford with a 125A Hobart MIG. That welder was not capable of that job and this weldor(me) should have refused. The car has since been sold so I don't know whatever happened with it.
Grant
Kinda embarassing, but here's a couple shots showing typical gobs of filler stuck on and near the joint I'm aiming for.
bad weld
different angle, same bad weld
These are some extra plates I put on after test fitting.
Yes, It's the HH140 supposed to be happy up to 1/4", but this stuff is 1/8", and I got the voltage up all the way, and the feed about 1/2 way, so I think 1/4 is pretty optimistic. So far I like it well enough, but being a total novice I don't know enough to compare. I do, however, know my limitations, and I don't expect to try anything that's remotely critical. I figure if these break, the car never had 'em in the first place, so what's the harm? I bought it mostly because I need to do the dreaded cowl repair.
Later,
Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
gjz30075 said:
They look great. What was the cost of the tubing?

For the tube hitting the screw, I'd use a cutoff wheel and cut the screw flush with the floor. You can always drill a hole in the tube, from above, if you need to replace the screw with a standard length.
8 Lf 2"x2"x1/8" tubing = $30
4 Lf 2"w x 1/8" plate = $6
Actually I'm more concerned with the lip on the drain hole. It's easy to just drill for the screw. After due contemplation, I'm gonna just force the connector against the lip, it should raise the floorboard like 1/8" or so, not enough to do any harm.
 

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Yes, It's the HH140 supposed to be happy up to 1/4", but this stuff is 1/8", and I got the voltage up all the way, and the feed about 1/2 way, so I think 1/4 is pretty optimistic. So far I like it well enough, but being a total novice I don't know enough to compare. I do, however, know my limitations, and I don't expect to try anything that's remotely critical. I figure if these break, the car never had 'em in the first place, so what's the harm? I bought it mostly because I need to do the dreaded cowl repair.
Later,
Dennis
Thanks for the pics. Hey, thats how welds look when you are a beginner, nothing wrong with that. Its like you said, nothing critical, the car doesn't need them for safety so why not.I think we could get your welds looking a lot better with some welder adjustments though. Are you running off of the door chart for settings? Are you running flux core or gas and solid wire? I would follow the recommended settings on the door. These newer welders are pretty darn close. Also make sure to keep your tip close, don't stray away from the metal. Good luck.
Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stanger'66 said:
Thanks for the pics. Hey, thats how welds look when you are a beginner, nothing wrong with that. Its like you said, nothing critical, the car doesn't need them for safety so why not.I think we could get your welds looking a lot better with some welder adjustments though. Are you running off of the door chart for settings? Are you running flux core or gas and solid wire? I would follow the recommended settings on the door. These newer welders are pretty darn close. Also make sure to keep your tip close, don't stray away from the metal. Good luck.
Grant
Actually, I'm pretty close to the recommended settings. Playing around a little, mostly with feed, it doesn't like any lower voltage very much.
Solid .030 wire, but straight argon, since my brother had an extra bottle with some in it.
Thanks,
Dennis
 

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Actually, I'm pretty close to the recommended settings. Playing around a little, mostly with feed, it doesn't like any lower voltage very much.
Solid .030 wire, but straight argon, since my brother had an extra bottle with some in it.
Thanks,
Dennis
You are right, the feed is all you can tweak but it can make all the difference. The argon will give you a little cooler weld than C25 will(argon/co2). Straight CO2 will give the hottest weld. Solid .030 is good for 1/8". That is usually my cut-off point for .023.
Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Stanger'66 said:
You are right, the feed is all you can tweak but it can make all the difference. The argon will give you a little cooler weld than C25 will(argon/co2). Straight CO2 will give the hottest weld. Solid .030 is good for 1/8". That is usually my cut-off point for .023.
Grant
As soon as I'm out of gas, I'll replace w/ c25. I was surprised when I opened the welder, the gauges are not to be used with straight CO2. But I doubt for my purposes it'll make any diffefence.
Thanks,
Dennis
 

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I was surprised when I opened the welder, the gauges are not to be used with straight CO2.
Yeah, you are right. I kind of forgot about that to be honest. I've never ran straight CO2 through mine and don't plan to since I don't need any hotter weld. I have however run it through an HH125 because the owner was too cheap to buy C25. Nothing happened to his but I wouldn't risk it in mine either, not worth it. I'd just switch to FC if I needed more heat.
Grant
 

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its a good start man. It just takes a lot of practice and you'll find a method you're comfortable with. Keep at it. I started welding while in high school and got really good at it but then when I enlisted in the Marine Corps I didn't do it for a long time. I picked it up again recently and its like riding a bike. You never forget. I'm considering taking some classes to really refine my welding skills and to pick up TIG as well. Kuddos to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. Like I said, it's a skill I need to have.
Later,
Dennis
 

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When you first start welding, you'll definitely spend a lot more time grinding than welding.

I'm finally past the beginner phase, but I'm no where near a skilled welder yet. At least I spend a lot less time with the grinder now! ;)

Keep up the good work!
 

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Looks like you are feeding too much wire. What happens is you get those little blobs. Try turning down the wire speed and use a little zigzag in your welding passes. Practice practice practice. If you keep at it you'll get it. I would practice on some flat metal and just run pass after pass then when you master that, try butt welding. Nice first project though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I took a 6 week vacation (Hawaii & Texas in mid-winter. Wish I hadn't had to leave) since I put the connectors in, finally got it together to take some pics. I think lying on one's back in cramped quarters, not able to aim one's bifocals at the right spot is not the way to learn welding. :) But overall I'm not too disappointed in the results. I think I'll add a small angle to the trailing end outer side to attach it to the torque box above the connector. Other than that, lots more grinding and some paint.
Here's some pictures of them installed.
 

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I agree.. I zigzag big time.. Looks cleaner. I was afraid of it not being strong, but I mean, fused is fused I guess.
 
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