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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have tried to find information on shaving drip rails and have not seen what I am looking for.

I am removing the drip rail from my 68. The 68 rail is spot welded into the window structure. I have cut the seam weld on the drip rail and I have drilled out the spot welds and pulled the strip of metal that is left.

My question is do most people clean up and put the strip of metal back for any type of integrity and spacing for the seal, or just throw it out?

either way I wanted to pull it off and clean up the metal, lots of surface rust lurking under there... nothing bad but could work its way through paint in a few years.

So am I done with the strip, or do I put it back on?

Also I have seen people put sheet metal screws in to keep everything in place, I did not, did not look necessary and nothing has pulled apart... Just thought I would throw that out there for other people in the future
 

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I debated this just last week and did a lot of research. I ended up just re-caulking my drip rail due to the amount of cutting/welding/straigtening of the new metal. But, in my research I found people did this 2 ways. 1. they cut the drip rail at the edge and folded the drip rail up and welded. The screws you are referring to were to keep the roof skin from separating from the body. If it comes up then this could be a real job to get back to shape. 2. option is to cut like you did and lay a 1'' inch strip or so and weld in to cover the space after the drip rail is removed. Sounds like as long as you have the rail off and can weld the space up then you are ready for some filler/prime/paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the info... If you want to do it I would say go for it... It only took me about an hour to cut off the rail with a cut wheel, drill the spot welds with a cutter.
(this is as far as I am now)
The pillar comes out awsome, I will have to grind on the roof area(probably 3m sand paper wheels on a die grinder) weld up the seam, grind again, and use a little filler.. I can't see more than 4 -5 hours per side.

I seen the post they used sheet metal to fill from the roof to the window area, but a 67/68 has a roof line before it goes down to the drip rail, I am keeping this body line. No rust to cut out, just some light surface rust from 2 inch wide strip of metal to metal contact for 40+ years..A little weld through primer would of went a long way..
 

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Seeing how all the mods I have done to mine took longer than expected, I was at a point of just reworking the caulk. The drip rails weren't rusted on mine at all. Just a very light surface rust at the bottom of the A pillar. So, no real nead to cut them off. I have been saying I am painting every weekend for about a month now and I just didn't want to fool with one more mod. But, sounds like you are right on track. Dont forget to post pics of our work. We like pics!!
 

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Strange, drip rails are one of the things I miss on modern cars. I like cracking my window in the rain.

No problem in a early Mustang. A disaster in my truck or people-mover modern car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Strange, drip rails are one of the things I miss on modern cars. I like cracking my window in the rain.

No problem in a early Mustang. A disaster in my truck or people-mover modern car.

Funny you said this... The first thing I did to my new truck was put window visors on... But they look a lot more sleek than the rails on my mustang.
 

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Please don't think I was trying to criticize your mods! I was just saying that the functionality of the drip rail was something that I think modern cars really don't offer.

I suspect it's because most drivers don't smoke in the car anymore, actually.

I've got the visors on my truck too ;-)
 

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NEXT, how did you build your rotisserie?
 

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I am not old enough to remember them in the 60's. And after I talked about it with my dad I can see how the drip rail is actually there for a functional purpose that I guess I never thought of before because I've never had a vehicle with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
NEXT, how did you build your rotisserie?

If I said with a bunch of spare pipe and a couple of night shifts at work would you be mad??


what do you want to know about it?

I did some research and found that I needed a 9" drop in front (I have to look, been along time since I built it but sounds right).

Once I knew that I just started welding, cut holes and welded nuts to use bolts as stops, welded tabs on the up rights to attach some hydraulic jacks off of my cherry picker.

I think I have some pics of it on my car domain page, I made it so I can easily collapse it when I am done. no real specs.. I bolted the angle iron in the rear of the car before I welded to the cross brace, same up front but I just used like 5/8" metal.

So If I want to reuse it all i have to do is build some new brackets to hold the new car, since not all cars require that amount of drop in front...


If you are having to buy material buy square tube.. I had to gusset the crap out of the round tube... but I think I have maybe 50 bucks including casters and paint in it..
 

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I am not old enough to remember them in the 60's. And after I talked about it with my dad I can see how the drip rail is actually there for a functional purpose that I guess I never thought of before because I've never had a vehicle with them.
Ouch! If I told you I can remember listening to 8 tracks as a kid, you'd think I was REALLY REALLY old then! :)
 

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I am probably going to end up building one eventually for my coupe. Just went through your whole car domain page this afternoon and you have allot of good pics for reference. I will have to find a metal supplier locally to get the steel from.

Thanks for the advice on the square tubing.
 

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Ouch! If I told you I can remember listening to 8 tracks as a kid, you'd think I was REALLY REALLY old then! :)
OOPS! Didn't mean to make anyone feel old. Yeah, my dad ran an AM 8 track in his 71 mach back in the day with an under dash radio from Sears I think. I actually prefer to hang out with the groups like yourself that lived thru the hayday of classics of the 50's and the musclecar wars of the 60's and 70's. I feel I may be on the outerskirts of my generation where if you go much younger than myself, they don't appreciate the classic cars. I am very fortunate to have my dad and his friends to share stories of how it used to be. Those are some of the best days in the shop.
 

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I shaved my drip rails, I think it just looks cleaner plus mine were so far rusted it wasnt worth even trying to save. I removed the spotwelds and cut the rest with a sawzall. Welded the seam together (this took the most work and patience) and I am really happy with the results.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
dennisgill, Thanks for the reply, I just wanted to make sure no one ran into problems just tossing out the strip after removing the spot welds, seems to be thicker than the rest, 16ga? I Did not know if it was thicker for anything structural.
You car turned out awesome!


You guys really want to feel old?

By the time I was old enough to drive, you could barely find cassette tapes!
 
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