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Moderatly Old Fart
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OK. I have some time I had not planned on and located a set of good used shock towers. The PO of my convert torched header clearance and they are a mess. You can see the A arms from in the engine compartment. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

So the plan is to order a export brace to line things up and a curved Monte Carlo bar to clear the cam tower. So I drill out the welds, Then use the bolt holes to line things up again. Because they are original the holes ought to line up perfectly. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif A little grinding to remove any paint or rust and I should be in business.

Then weld inside and out of the perimiter and then the drilled holes.. It will not be concours looking.

Am I missing anything?????. Any pointers anyone can add?
 

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You will find getting the old ones out will be the hard part. There are some welds you won't be able to drill out and might have to do a little grinding to get them loose. It is also a good time to put one of the reinforcement kits in or make your own reinforcements around the frame rail. It is easy to do and does not mess up the apperance. Measure twice, weld once. Good luck
 

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Hi Gene

Had the same issue with my fastback a few years back. PO(s) raced the car pretty hard, and replaced the K motor with a Boss 302 at one point. I replaced both towers about 5 years ago. Stuff I learned:

- Spot-weld cutter from Eastwood is worth every nickle. Carefully center punch each weld, then slowly drill until all or most of the weld is cut. Be careful not to go any further than you have too, you'll just make more work for later. Remember, factory spot welds were made ask quickly as possible by humans , some are better than others.

-Buy the better quality export brace and monte bar, some of the cheap ones aren't necessarily true to form.

- A nice assortment of chisles and other implements of destruction; a sawzall is good too, and a 4-1/2" grinder with some thin-cut abrasive wheels helps too.

- Is the front end alignment good now? before you start, have the front end aligned at a good shop. When you do each tower, the UCA has to come off, be careful to keep track of the shims and exactly what how many were on each bolt

- Install the export brace before you get started, preferably while the engine's in the car so everything is sitting where it should be

- take pictures and measurements as you go. I cut a few 2 x 4's for spacers between the fender aprons, and a pc of 1-1/2" angle iron between the motormount holes before I started hacking away.

-Take out and replace one side at a time, to keep everything square-

- your replacement shock towers should have the thicker metal for mounting the UCA, and the bracket for the motor mount and the LCA if they were cut out of the donor car properly. I cut out the sheet metal tower, and in the motor mount area I cut basically in a straight line between the 2 upper and one lower motor mount holes. This allowed me to keep the factory welded LCA mounting point on my car, use the motor mount bracket to locate the new shock tower assy, hide a lot of the welding under the motor mount, and minimize the amount of welding from the "overhead" position


-Support the car on jack stands behind the firewall, not on the front.

- While you're at it, and if trailered concourse isn't in mind, take a little sheet metal and fill the shelf area below the UCA so dirt and water won't collect on that swell shelf Ford put there. You may find that the frame rail is already rotted there anyway, unless you're in the SW. Here in NH, it's par for the course...

Take your time, and Good luck!
 

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You might also look for a 69 or 70 cougar, as all V-8's in these had reinforced shock towers. The cougar ones are usually cheap.
 
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