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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wasn't expecting this on the driver side. Pulled the suspension getting ready to replace the inner aprons and came across a "few" cracks. The car, '69 vert 351w, has the welded big block supports and the export brace bolts right up so I do think the towers are located correctly. I'm not sure if the shock tower is salvageable by stop drilling and welding or if I just need to replace it and add another set of big block braces. Any input from those with more experience would be helpful.



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It appears that the welds on the front, are in the same location as some of the welds on the backside? correct?. I would try to drill and weld before tearing it all apart. But that is me. And while you are there...do the drop...
 

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In my stable: 1969 Mustang notchback, 1970 mustang notchback, 1970 sports roof.
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I'm not an automotive engineer but I am a mechanical engineer. Maybe someone else who's welded one up that was this bad and then drove it for years afterwards can chime in, but I personally would replace them. The metal cracked like that because it has fatigued over the life of the car, just welding up the bad areas doesn't necessarily fix the issue if overall the tower is fatigued. It may just start cracking at the next weakest point. Welding the cracks will anneal the metal in the areas around the welds to some degree because of the heat, but i'd just bite the bullet and replace.
 

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67 Fastback T5, 331 stroker, TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear, 3.55 gears
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The welds do not appear to match up to the cracks. It looks like for the most part they welded around the perimeter of where the engine mount / crossmember piece attaches to the shock tower. Sorry to say it seems the best course of action is to replace them. In terms of welding, I think repairing the cracks would require more welding skills than replacing the shock towers.
 

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Yikes! That looks pretty bad, frankly. No question, I would replace those shock towers. It will probably be nearly as much work to "properly" fix all that as it would be to just replace the towers.
 

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Back when nothing was available, I welded a 69 mach1 that was that bad. On both sides. We switched it back to stock 69 mach1 wheels at the same time. It did not re-crack, at least for the next 2-3 years. Almost every Mustang I have seen with such cracks had aftermarket wheels with positive offset.
 
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My shock towers were nowhere close to that bad and I replaced them. It was worth the piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies. Who currently has the best replacement shock towers? Another thought is what's the best way to retain the VIN that's stamped on the originals?
 

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That is some really good welding on the engine compartment side!
 

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The stuff that is welded looks like nice beads. They just welded the engine side since they didn't want to take off the suspension.

Replacing it all depends on the purpose of the car. For a driver I think you made the right call.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Figured I would clean and weld and see if I liked the results. Got some good penetration on tohe welds, tuff to get a couple of them cleaned up but should work for a driver.




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You took the approach I was hinting at. No Dukes of Hazzard and you will be fine. Nice work! Don't forget to do the Arning drop! You could even weld up the old holes for the stealth look like I did.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Figured I would clean and weld and see if I liked the results. Got some good penetration on tohe welds, tuff to get a couple of them cleaned up but should work for a driver.




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What I would have done, too. Looks to me like those cracks pre-dated the first repair.
 

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at least the price was right....looks good to me...I could sleep just fine if the results look like your post!
 
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