Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,466 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I visited a restoration shop near Detroit today to ask about painting my car. I have considered having the car media blasted, but this guy highly recommended against it. Not for the usual reason (warping), but because he says that when the car is painted, excess media will fly out from unknown places and get mixed up with the paint. He suggested dipping the whole car or just the removable panels, then sanding the quarters. What would you do?


Thanks
jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,043 Posts
media blasting is about 1/2 the price. if the guy doing it isn't a moron, it does not worp the metal. they have differnt materials for different aplications... ie, they do not use sand on the hood.

yes, the stuff gets EVERYWHERE. you will be vacuming it out of your car forever... i put mine on a rotisery, and every time i turned the car, more sand fell out of somewhere despipte my vacuming it throughly. that said, i have gotten most of it out now... i'm not woried about it getting in the paint anymore.

I have heard that the chemicals with the chemical dip are the same way... they will leak out long after the car has been dipped and ruin the paint. i don't have any first hand experience here though.
the real question is, why do you want to chem dip the car? it has to be 100% completly striped... not one thing can be on the car. I don't know exactily what is wrong with your car, but iirc, you said it just needed a new paint job. if this is the case, and you are dead set on stripping the car, i would recomend using either a chemical stripper (paint stripper from ace) or media blasting it. paint stripper is much cheeper than media blasting, but it will not remove rust, etc.

good luck!

- jason
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
I don't buy the media coming out from everywhere on the top of the car because you blow and clean and blow and clean so often before painting.
However, on the underside I had so much stuff blowing out of the seat platform (the seat track plug holes) I finally partially blew up some balloons and stuffed them into the plug holes. Dirt and other stuff comes out of the sub-frames too.
I would dip if I had a choice. It gets everywhere. I can't media blast inside the rails. Or in the cowl. I can't get everywhere inside the doors.
If you dip, make sure they can pull out the car, clean it and then dip it again into a primer bath (or phosphate maybe).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
I have a restoration shop in Florida that I just asked that same question this week and told me that they do not like media blast because you are never going to remove all the media. They will hand strip the car to bare metal. They have over 20 years experience in Mustang restorations,
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,018 Posts
James
I believe that the original post was about media not sand blasting. I have heard the same thing about sand but the plastic media is much larger and from what I gather, a lot more effective.
Stan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Jim,

I posted this same topic in the Heartland VMF'ers section. It may shed a little more light on the subject.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
I blasted my car, and I don't think I will ever get all of the sand out from every crack and crevace. If you are concerned about that, I would dip it if you can afford it!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
Kyle -- I read the post:
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=heartlandvmfers&Number=758637
and I'm a bit confused.
67Shelby complained that after dipping his car had bunch of holes in it and would never dip again, preferring to Por-15.
There was also talk about having to remove seam sealer and how this was also painful.

Hmmm, if you dip your car and it now has a bunch of holes in it, doesn't that mean your car had rust, the dipping process removed the rust and now you get to really see what your car looks like?

If you take your rusty car and Por-15 the 'problem areas' you have not added any structure -- you have simply coated thin rusty metal so it doesn't continue rusting. You are hiding and sealing the problem...you haven't fixed it. I'm not saying you shouldn't use Por 15...but if dipping removes the metal, it wasn't thick enough to be structurally adequate and it should have been removed anyway. And there is little on a Mustang that isn't structural.

As for original seam sealer, the old sealer is a real problem in that it's usually hiding rust behind it.
If pulled out all my sealer and under almost all of it is rust. Ford didn't primer first and then add sealer. The just shot the seam sealer.
Ford didn't always seal both sides, so rust creaps in on one side, it's sealed so you ignore it and later the rust pops out.
I removed all the sealer around the inside, inner wheel house and found a bunch of rust just starting. Looked good before I pulled out all the sealer. It came from the wheel well and worked it's way in through the seam sealer applied in the well. The original sealer is not very waterproof!
The mess hiding under factory seam sealer at the cowl was amazing -- it all has to come out!

I pull out all seam sealer, chemically remove the rust, phosphate it, use epoxy sealer, and then use modern, waterproof two part paintable sealers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
971 Posts
The outfit down by detriot will do the dip and do the wash bath and dip it again in the phosphate.
I've seen his work and I am impressed.
The one thing about dipping id it gets in to every crack and crevice and place's where blasting could never get too.
The owner of the place in detriot told me the reason the stuff ozze's out after awhile is because they don't do the wash bath after wards or at least it's not done properly.
here there web site www.ecoatking.com
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
Now that's impressive.
I saw his prices, but it certainly looks like just the ticket for a high dollar ride.

But I live in Seattle! Not fair.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top