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Discussion Starter #1
I will be replacing the suspension on my 69 Conv. and adding Power steering and Disc brakes and I was wondering if the Shelby drop would be worth doing. I will not be racing the car just using it for a cruiser and rides, maybe a semi daily driver during summer months.

Ductman
 

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I will be replacing the suspension on my 69 Conv. and adding Power steering and Disc brakes and I was wondering if the Shelby drop would be worth doing. I will not be racing the car just using it for a cruiser and rides, maybe a semi daily driver during summer months.
I don't think there's any downside to doing the drop. I believe Ford's original suspension geometry gives a slightly better ride and may have other "regular driver" benefits, but the improvement of the drop is a worthwhile tradeoff. If you do nothing else, you might consider a beefier front sway bar while you're at it.
 

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I like it on SWMBO`s vert, but never drove it before it was done so can`t compare
 

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I agree with the other posters that there really isn't a down side to it. But I can't agree about putting a larger front sway bar on, unless it is matched with the rest of the suspension and rear bar. Mustangs have terminal understeer, and adding a larger front bar by itself only makes that condition worse.
 

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I'd disagree on the sway bar. The stock pipe cleaner doesn't do much to control body roll and contributes to instability in hard cornering. A beefier bar, while perhaps increasing understeer, promotes a more stable overall setup. Mustangs need all the help they can get in this respect, and trading off a little more understeer is a cheap price to pay. I'll take stable, "pushable" understeer over twitchy response any day.

That said, most owners screw it up on the "some is good, lots is better" theory and go for a 1" to 1-1/8" track-grade bar, which WILL turn an otherwise stock 'Stang into a snowplow. A 13/16 or 7/8 bar is plenty of upgrade for a street car without a rear bar.
 

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A rear sway bar is about $100. Adding both is good engineering. Adding only a front bar isn't. Like everything else, a well designed suspension needs to have balance, and adding understeer to a car that already has too much of it is a bad idea.
 

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Rear bars are cheap, but a bitch to install and adjust. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the relative merits. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like I might as well just do it since I will have everything off. I do have a larger sway bar and the springs from a Mach1 that I parted. Would the springs be better from the Mach1? Don't have a rear swaybar to add but I may look for one.

Thanks and keep posting the info it all helps. I bookmarked that website on the shelby drop so I can read it later.

Ductman
 

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Sounds like I might as well just do it since I will have everything off.
That was what I was thinking - don't do it in little tiny bits where you have to do the same job over and over. Save up the money, the parts and the time and do it in one big fwoop.

I do have a larger sway bar and the springs from a Mach1 that I parted. Would the springs be better from the Mach1? Don't have a rear swaybar to add but I may look for one.
Not sure about the springs - I have much confoozion there myself - but you can't go wrong with a rear bar. Go with a 5/8 fixed or 3/4 adjustable; I ass/u/me you have at least a 1-inch front. Rear bars can be a little bit of a pain to install but are well, well worth it.

Fixes that understeer problem, y'know. ::
 

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Do the drop, get sway bars on both ends, and put on a set of KYB or Koni shocks. With a decent set of tires, you will be amazed at how much better your car corners. The only downside of a big rear bar is that it unloads the inside rear tire during cornering. With an open diff, if you leadfoot it off of a corner, you will look like a mosquito fogger for all of the tire smoke. A T-lok diff will solve that, though.
 
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